Here are all of my complaints. It all relates to my damn hardtail. It's been riding fairly well, but there have been a bunch of problems lately. First were the machine built Sun wheels. They've taken a beating, but for some reason they are coming out of true like crazy. I take them in to get trued, $40 and one day later, they're out of true again. I finally just messed with them myself and got them to be at a point where they aren't getting wobbly every second. Next comes my cranks. They had been creaking horribly, so I greased them up and they stopped. Now, 2 weeks later, they're doing it AGAIN!!! No cracks in the frame at all, just this one spot that I can't get to very well without getting the right tool for the bb from the shop. I don't have the cash to do that. Then, 2 days ago my rear brake started howling and wouldn't stop the bike well at all. I give the pads and rotor a nice soak in some alcohol and put them back. Squeaking gets worse, stopping power still absent. They're Hayes metallic pads that came with the brakes. Anyways, while I flip the bike over to take out the pads, I accidentally hit the brake lever. A little bit of brake fluid shoots out of the lever. I then check the bolts that hold the reservoir cover on the levers and discover that all of them are a little loose, and one is stripped. I go to the store, spend $20 on new semi-metallic pads, and all is well. Today, the front pads start doing the same thing, I try alcohol, gets worse, which is very weird considering it helps with all of the other brakes I've used in the past. Not to mention, I was riding a little urban at the school and happened to hit a patch of these short, but very strong and very sharp thorns. Now both of my tubes are shot. My cassette has gone to sh*t too because it is the kind with the stacked individual plates instead of the alloy spider. The cogs that are just the plates are starting to strip, so they have a lot of play on the cassette body. My seatpost is also slipping incurably, I've tried dirt, loc-tite on the QR lever's bolt, everything. How much money do the bike gods need to take from me?! Is it just because I don't have a job this summer? I'm flat broke, and my bike is pretty much unrideable. I'm done, I just really, really had to get this out.
I needed to rant so....
- Thread starter ZHendo
- Start date
Yea @ the end of the day what it comes down to is hardtail MTB's are all but worhtless for thrashing. Stuff either brakes left and right, or stops working properly shortly after install, that is if it every worked properly @ all . A bunch of overpriced crap if you ask me. Between my specialist, my park bike and my p street I easliy droped 10 G's before I finally excepted this reality, broke down, and built up a kink to do all my street, and DJ'n on. My repair bill went from a $100 a week to about $20 in tubes a month, I have money to spend on upgrade's and my Freeride rig rather than necesities just to get by, not to mention I became a much better rider all around.
is this the yeti DJ??? i just found a crack in my suspesion link on my yeti as-x and now i doubt that itll get here in time for my trip to N*. what shop u going to now
You know, your bike sounds a lot like my bike. It creaks and groans more than granny at a rocking chair convention...
I took Bicyclists advice; I fixed it by getting a BMX bike for beating up and save the MTB for trail rides. Now my wrists and ankles creak and groan but at least my bike is quiet. (well actually, the drive side crank is starting to creak.)
I took Bicyclists advice; I fixed it by getting a BMX bike for beating up and save the MTB for trail rides. Now my wrists and ankles creak and groan but at least my bike is quiet. (well actually, the drive side crank is starting to creak.)
bmx isn't for me guys. i know how to work on everything on my bike now, i have for about 8 months, but i don't have a truing stand. everything is slowly getting worked out, i'm taking a trip to performance to buy a bunch of stuff today, it's really going to hurt though.
and yesimaddicted, this is the dj, i hate most of the local shops though because nobody knows what they're talking about. i buy all parts at performance because it's about 75% of the price of the other local shops. i buy big stuff, like wheels, frames, and complete bikes, from allen at the dropnzone, he's pretty much the best wheelbuilder and mechanic around and he's a great guy to work with.
and yesimaddicted, this is the dj, i hate most of the local shops though because nobody knows what they're talking about. i buy all parts at performance because it's about 75% of the price of the other local shops. i buy big stuff, like wheels, frames, and complete bikes, from allen at the dropnzone, he's pretty much the best wheelbuilder and mechanic around and he's a great guy to work with.
well, at least all of your body parts work. having a ****ed up body part is ALOT worse.
I have an idea... Overbuilt wheels, only rear brake, singlespeed.
For creaking, use teflon. It will stop it for months, no question about it. Greese doesnt work as well.
Go get a cheapo mech rear brake, an Avid BB7 is good, 6 inch rotor, for rear only. They work really well.
That's all I have for you. Just tear up the bike and replace it with cheap(er) parts.
For creaking, use teflon. It will stop it for months, no question about it. Greese doesnt work as well.
Go get a cheapo mech rear brake, an Avid BB7 is good, 6 inch rotor, for rear only. They work really well.
That's all I have for you. Just tear up the bike and replace it with cheap(er) parts.
The wheel issue in obvious, machine built wheels are crap with the riding we do. They're not meant to take that kind of beating, I don't care what anyone says. I know you can't afford a custom built wheel so it's just something you'll have to deal with. I'd keep doing what you're doing by trying to true yourself, having disk brakes will buy you that wooble.
Sounds like the brake pads are just worn down and needed replacing but it sounds like you discovered that already. And the cogs wearing on your cassette can be from chain stretch possibly? And you might need a new BB. For your seatpost clamp get yourself a bmx clamp, sounds like your qr clamp is crap. Bmx clamps are around $10 for a good one and you can crank them down tight.
Sounds like the brake pads are just worn down and needed replacing but it sounds like you discovered that already. And the cogs wearing on your cassette can be from chain stretch possibly? And you might need a new BB. For your seatpost clamp get yourself a bmx clamp, sounds like your qr clamp is crap. Bmx clamps are around $10 for a good one and you can crank them down tight.
thanks for the feedback. sorry, i'm not ditching my current parts for cheaper and heavier stuff. when the bike is working it's crazy fun, but i've had bad luck lately i guess. i know exactly what i'm missing on the custom wheels, my ASX has some syncros rims laced to profile hubs by allen at the dropnzone, and i **** you not, i've had them checked in truing stands and they have never needed any truing at all despite 2 years of riding a lot and casing jumps, hitting big rocks, etc. ServeEm, my brake pads are actually not worn down much at all, that's the only reason i'm frusterated with what's going on. they seem to have about another 1/2 of their life left, but they're completely failing. the semi-metallic pads are so much better than the sintered since i replaced them, and it wasn't the brakes, it was just the pads being dikes. i'm also taking your advice and today i'm going to pick up a bmx clamp. as much as i'd like the quick release thing to work, it's been a headache on both of my bikes. it's not the cog that is wearing down really, it's the notches in the center of each cog that fit the freehub body. the little notches that let it slide onto the hub are bent and stretched, so now the cogs have rotational play.
Sounds like it's 3 areas that's driving you buggy. Here's what I would do...
Wheels: Like others have said, the machine built wheels are the culprit. For street, park, and trails/djs, singlespeed is the way to go. Front wheel should be fine as they typically take a lot less of abuse. Get a singlespeed Surly hub laced w/ dt Champion spokes to a RhinoLite XL w/ a ACS Claws freewheel. OR - go to Sheldon Brown's site and print off the pages on how to lace your own wheels. Take the current ones apart and relace the hub and hoop w/ some dt spokes. His wheelbuilding page make it pretty easy - just take your time.
Cranks: I like what PriceSeliger said w/ the teflon tape. I would try that first. I would then save up for some Profiles or some other BMX cranks. I've seen used sets of Profile in the classifieds for fair prices or go a mailorder shop. I've had one set for the past 7 years. They will last.
Brakes: Like others have said, if you need disk go swap out what you have for a Avid Mech setup. For park, street, and dirt I like my rim brakes (990's) and would recommend a set of v-brakes if you have the posts on your frame.
Wheels: Like others have said, the machine built wheels are the culprit. For street, park, and trails/djs, singlespeed is the way to go. Front wheel should be fine as they typically take a lot less of abuse. Get a singlespeed Surly hub laced w/ dt Champion spokes to a RhinoLite XL w/ a ACS Claws freewheel. OR - go to Sheldon Brown's site and print off the pages on how to lace your own wheels. Take the current ones apart and relace the hub and hoop w/ some dt spokes. His wheelbuilding page make it pretty easy - just take your time.
Cranks: I like what PriceSeliger said w/ the teflon tape. I would try that first. I would then save up for some Profiles or some other BMX cranks. I've seen used sets of Profile in the classifieds for fair prices or go a mailorder shop. I've had one set for the past 7 years. They will last.
Brakes: Like others have said, if you need disk go swap out what you have for a Avid Mech setup. For park, street, and dirt I like my rim brakes (990's) and would recommend a set of v-brakes if you have the posts on your frame.
having ridden afew of allen's wheels, i suggest tensioning the wheel slightly tighter than you normally would. seems to work pretty good!
as for the cassette...i have to agree with the single speed for street/DJ but i didn't have any problems with my cassette, is it ****mano or sram? the qr...there are good qr's and bad ones...also you could try a slightly oversize post?? and i agree with avid mech, they work great, but your hayes might need some rotor help too, not just pads
as for the cassette...i have to agree with the single speed for street/DJ but i didn't have any problems with my cassette, is it ****mano or sram? the qr...there are good qr's and bad ones...also you could try a slightly oversize post?? and i agree with avid mech, they work great, but your hayes might need some rotor help too, not just pads
You must be a pretty crappy mechanic.
Actually I used to have one of the best mechanics in the east till he got enticed out to cali, so go stroke your wang somewhere else. parts dont last, its always something, usually expensive, sometimes $50 will get you something that last's just as long as $200, to bad you didnt find that out till after you spent it. To be fair Im very abusive on my whips though, put hardtails through things I see alot of people back down on with big rigs. Either way all I was trying to say is switching to bmx is a great way to ride cheap, and hastle free
Why would I be stroking my wang, you don't even have a sexy avatar?
You're essentially stating that because you fvck up your bikes, that there's an inherent flaw in riding hardtail mtbs for street and dirtjumping. You're contradicting THOUSANDS of people doing just that who ride very frequently and very well on such hardtails without the percieved 'need' to get a bmx bike. So I'm sorry I called you a crappy mechanic (since you obviously lack the skill to work on your own bikes).
It sounds like you're actually just a crappy rider.:biggrin:
edit: just an fyi, it's friday, I've got a tweaked back and won't be riding tomorrow and I'm drinking whiskey. Whether or not I agree with you is irrelevant. I'm drinkin whiskey. Beyotch
a simple bike is a reliable bike...i have rode the sh!t out of my HT MTB and it still asks for more, but it's also SS/rear V-Brake and i always run high air pressure to save the wheels. Running High PSI will help save money a lot!
come into work tomorrow and we can be cripples drinking wiskey on the clock. i've been watchn movies and shooting up the locker room with a bb gun all week now that iam back light duty. i could also use a co-pilot for the rescue truck. i can drive but with my cast i cant hit the siron. i almost ran over some fools on my way to the glory hole yesterday for the kid we flew out.
Boy you really showed me!
You must be spancered!!
A few pics taken mid wallride or mid air have nothing to do with landing sideways, landing flat, or generally all jiggy.......which is what screws up parts.
I honestly don't care what bike you ride. Do what cha like. Glad the 20s working for you. But again......you breaking parts that you don't even install yourself is NOT reason for a blanket statement across the board about hardtails being unsuitable street and dirt for everyone. There are guys bigger than you pounding on things much bigger than what's in your two pics above doing just fine.
But until you realize I'm also just yanking your chain, I'm going to keep yanking your chain. I've bent plenty of mtb cranks and pedal spindles myself............but I'm not going to admit that.........because I think you're a terrible rider and you're going to have to post more pics to prove me wrong. More! More!
Aight! I give,you win. Truth is I'm a mtb'r through and through, but as the saying goes if you care how much it cost's you cant afford it. I'm broke so I'm hating. BMX is just the tried and true low budget option. This genration of mtb'rs is off the hook, no ? about it, but bmx'rs still own raging, and that cant be argued