I want to lighten up my drive train..
- Thread starter Spahman
- Start date
Roadie cassette
Atlas FR 165mm cranks
KMC gold chain with holes in it
Hope hub with Mavic 721s seems to be the hot ticket, I'm satisfied with my MTX though
Swap out the bashring with a taco
E.13 guidering
I'm not sure what you'll save by changing the rear deraileur
That's pretty close to my current set up. I just changed brakes too in the quest for less unsprung weight.
Atlas FR 165mm cranks
KMC gold chain with holes in it
Hope hub with Mavic 721s seems to be the hot ticket, I'm satisfied with my MTX though
Swap out the bashring with a taco
E.13 guidering
I'm not sure what you'll save by changing the rear deraileur
That's pretty close to my current set up. I just changed brakes too in the quest for less unsprung weight.
You'll get way better results by lightening up the rotating parts rather than drivetrain.
Think about lighter tires, tubeless, even wheelset. You'll be able to drop way more lbs/$ in that area and it will be way more noticeable. The cheapest is just with new tires (UST Minions) and converting to tubeless. You likely need new tires for next season anyways, so it's just a matter of choosing wisely.
You'll save an easy 1 1/2lbs by going to a boxxer wc or even team as well, and the pre 2010 versions are going fairly cheap. Selling the 888 can make up some of the expenditure.
Oh, the old E.13 bash is a boat anchor. Swap it out to the new style or go Gamut. That saddle looks like a couch too, check out the wtb rocket.
Think about lighter tires, tubeless, even wheelset. You'll be able to drop way more lbs/$ in that area and it will be way more noticeable. The cheapest is just with new tires (UST Minions) and converting to tubeless. You likely need new tires for next season anyways, so it's just a matter of choosing wisely.
You'll save an easy 1 1/2lbs by going to a boxxer wc or even team as well, and the pre 2010 versions are going fairly cheap. Selling the 888 can make up some of the expenditure.
Oh, the old E.13 bash is a boat anchor. Swap it out to the new style or go Gamut. That saddle looks like a couch too, check out the wtb rocket.
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New rear wheel comprised of: American Classic DH hub, DT 14/15 spokes with alloy nips, NoTubes Flow rim with yellow tape and valve (makes it tubeless). If you are hard on rims you may have to go with something beefier or wait for the Magnesium Spank rim to come out.
Ultegra 12-26 cassette.
Ultegra rear derailleur.
E13 LG1+
I agree on the KMC SL chain and Atlas cranks.
Ultegra 12-26 cassette.
Ultegra rear derailleur.
E13 LG1+
I agree on the KMC SL chain and Atlas cranks.
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Without knowing your full spec, I'd look for new cranks and an LG1. I bet you can get standard lg1s for cheap now, and a fresh saint or atlas crank will shed some grams for sure. Even gravity lites might be a good way to go if you want to lose weight, but a lot of people have problems with bending.
i wouldn't waste time and money on things like a new derailleur or cassette, unless yours are old and haggard. Those are wear parts and will eventually die anyways- you may as well grab something to replace them when they do, rather than preemptively.
Otherwise, there are plenty of place to lighten up the bike, but a fresh crank and lighter guide will make the most noticeable difference in your drivetrain.
i wouldn't waste time and money on things like a new derailleur or cassette, unless yours are old and haggard. Those are wear parts and will eventually die anyways- you may as well grab something to replace them when they do, rather than preemptively.
Otherwise, there are plenty of place to lighten up the bike, but a fresh crank and lighter guide will make the most noticeable difference in your drivetrain.
Nice DHR, the first thing I would do is drill the rear end to drop the bb, slack the headtube and lengthen the cs. Makes the bike shred so hard. You catch a few more pedals, but the bike is on rails at speed. I would also lower the fork in the crowns as much as possible, and get wider, low rise bars. And a new set of 2.5 DHF minion super tackies. These changes would make the biggest improvements to your ride.
The dhr has a 73mm BB shell, so you have more options for light cranks. I'd do shimano; saint, hone or XT depending how abusive you are and how much you are looking to spend. Gravity lights are made of butter, and the atlas cranks break chainring spider tabs really easy.
For weight savings, the seat and pedals look like easy places to shave grams. Wellgo MG-1 pedals, whatever light saddle tickles your fashion. I like the traitor diamond pattern seat.
The dhr has a 73mm BB shell, so you have more options for light cranks. I'd do shimano; saint, hone or XT depending how abusive you are and how much you are looking to spend. Gravity lights are made of butter, and the atlas cranks break chainring spider tabs really easy.
For weight savings, the seat and pedals look like easy places to shave grams. Wellgo MG-1 pedals, whatever light saddle tickles your fashion. I like the traitor diamond pattern seat.
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I was going to go with the K-9 Industrie headset instead of drilling the rear triangle.
What would be the better idea?
I'm guessing the K-9 is an offset headset.
offset hs will slack the headangle and slightly lower bb and extend wb. Drilled rear end will drop the bb more, extend cs, slack ht, but lower effective main pivot and slightly reduce travel. I have drilled my dhr and really like how low and slack it is. It is slightly harsher thru rubble fields, but i feel the improved cornering and stability are well worth it.
There's your problem right there, get rid of one of those forks and you should be light as a feather. 7lb savings right there.I can't part with the forks yethave put too much money into them
Then, get the new E13 LG1+ -Great suggestions guys! but I should have been a little more specific...
Mostly what I want to get rid of first is the bash guard, cranks, the guide, and that lazy boy of a seat.
I can't part with the forks yet
Taken off this thread.
Also, depending on how heavy you are, the new Shimano SLX cranks aren't too shabby. Supposedly stronger than XT and they don't weigh that much more. Get the doubles though, those come with steel pedal inserts and the triples don't.
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What?? Show me a 1lb DH fork. Clown.
2- 7lb forks on his bike = 14lbs, take one of the "forks" off and it equals 7.
7lb weight savings. Clown.
Way to take a "forks" joke seriously.
I guess I'm used to being around moto guys now who actually talk about the "forks" they have on their bikes and nobody really cares...
More of a running RM joke than anything else but oh well, I tried.
GamutGreat suggestions guys! but I should have been a little more specific...
Mostly what I want to get rid of first is the bash guard, cranks, the guide, and that lazy boy of a seat.
I can't part with the forks yet
Shimano SLX check out Chain Reaction Cycles for Shimano stuff, always wicked deals there.
WTB Devo
Or you can also hit the gym, strength train. No amount of part swapping can substitute for strength built through weights. It'll save you a ton more money in the long run, assuming you already have a membership or a set of weight in the house.
Gravity Lite or Shimano SLX cranks
E13 LG1+
KMC X9SL Ti-Nitride chain
Wellgo MG-1 pedals
Ultegra cassette (if your feeling frisky)
Find a cheap road take-off saddle from your local shop. That way when you bang it up you won't be super bummed for throttling a 100+$ seat with fancy titanium bits.
Then get yerself some new rims. You could probably just lace them to your current hubs and just buy new spokes and rims. 250ish bucks at retail. Check out the Stans ZTR flow and DT Swiss EX5.1D.
E13 LG1+
KMC X9SL Ti-Nitride chain
Wellgo MG-1 pedals
Ultegra cassette (if your feeling frisky)
Find a cheap road take-off saddle from your local shop. That way when you bang it up you won't be super bummed for throttling a 100+$ seat with fancy titanium bits.
Then get yerself some new rims. You could probably just lace them to your current hubs and just buy new spokes and rims. 250ish bucks at retail. Check out the Stans ZTR flow and DT Swiss EX5.1D.