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Ideas-Valving avalanche cart: fox 40 float

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
The 40 spikes hard in high speed chatter feels like it's packing up.
The rebound is all the way open
Psi is 95 on the 40
I've played with compression adjuster I may need to up the slow speed a little drop psi a smidge...but rebound circuit on adjuster is WIDE open already...


Id like to;
-Have room on rebound adjuster and not be wide open
- smooth out high speed packing a bit faster rebound


There's different tunes on his site and I have never had an issue with coil and his tunes...they have been solid...so close it was amazing..I think air has something to do with this and psi with my weight.

Handles stuff really good tracks well for air. I had a talk with Craig and I know when I played with air pressure before it helped...

I have an event coming, I can race it how it is and do fine but I know less hand fatigue and the high frequency chatter will play hell on hands and I'd prefer to be fresh for the nasty sections...

Here's the current stack I can pull away a rebound shim or 2 or space initial threshold for more slow speed...

Screenshot_20210816-174653_Hancom Office Editor.jpg
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,657
1,143
La Verne
The 40 spikes hard in high speed chatter feels like it's packing up.
The rebound is all the way open
Psi is 95 on the 40
I've played with compression adjuster I may need to up the slow speed a little drop psi a smidge...but rebound circuit on adjuster is WIDE open already...


Id like to;
-Have room on rebound adjuster and not be wide open
- smooth out high speed packing a bit faster rebound



There's different tunes on his site and I have never had an issue with coil and his tunes...they have been solid...so close it was amazing..I think air has something to do with this and psi with my weight.

Handles stuff really good tracks well for air. I had a talk with Craig and I know when I played with air pressure before it helped...

I have an event coming, I can race it how it is and do fine but I know less hand fatigue and the high frequency chatter will play hell on hands and I'd prefer to be fresh for the nasty sections...

Here's the current stack I can pull away a rebound shim or 2 or space initial threshold for more slow speed...

View attachment 163572
If you think you have too slow rebound why not peal a face shim off of there and see how it feels.
 

englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,657
1,143
La Verne
Diqkwad sent me this for a 70psi
After having to ask for it about 30x


17 X.10
17 X.10
12 X.10
10 X.10
16 X.10
15 X.10
14 X.10
13 X.10
12 X.10
10 X.10
8 X.20
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,064
10,627
AK
Yes, you'll have to listen to why you are an idiot for not running your fork at 97psi instead of 96 for 3 hours if you call...

But what are your compression settings? I find his stuff needs a decent amount of LSC to properly activate the high speed circuits. You sometimes get into a loop trying to tune it to be "softer" for certain events, but backing off actually has the opposite effect as it tries to jam the oil in the wrong circuit. If you "never get there" it never reacts like it should on the high speed sharp edge stuff. The rebound is kind of the same way, you are only really adjusting chassis stability/low-speed stuff with the rebound adjuster, it's not going to really do crap for the high speed, except that you are trying to make up for HSR that is too slow by running the LSR wide open, but it still chokes on the fast stuff.

Not much help past that. When I dropped a bunch of weight I opened up my Avy cart fork and changed some shims out and it worked pretty well. There's some basics of shim stuff you can read about, like on restaker and some other places, mainly in terms of what to avoid. The mid valve definitely complicates issues though. From what I've researched, they are very sensitive to shim changes. I also remember you need a Showa tool to open up the cart?

I will say my avy air-sprung lyrik was good...damn good. I'm on coil now and it's better...I don't think about the fork, but thinking back, I didn't have many complaints and IMO that came down to the cart working so well.
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
@Jm_
Thanks and your right...I will go back to basics a little bit first again...

I'll add more low speed and see tomorrow...I plan on having to play with shims a bit .. I am getting crunched on time. Gonna throw woody on m9 and dial this cart in...need solid saddle time and get dialed mll, both me and suspension lol....

So I'll go back to basics first and do psi, close up the low reb and maybe add a little more low comp
@englertracing I'll look at that set up and see I don't want to screw up mid speed..I will go after the initial rebound face shim...
 
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englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,657
1,143
La Verne
How did this stack work for you...?

Your a 12x.10 vs my 13x.10 on rebound

So thoughts on removing 1 face shim and downsizing the 13 to a 12?
Well.
Removing a shim will reduce low and high speed damping

Going to a smaller crossover will reduce the low and high speed damping while also delaying the transition from the low speed shims only to the low+high speed shims
 

bullcrew

3 Dude Approved
Well the 40 is Evol now so going to do some messing with shims...

Per another I'm also going to mess with shims in RC2 (add a face shim) (FIXED)....So avy cart first and get it dialed, I know it can dial in about any way I want for best possible for to me....that's what I LOVE about the cart.
 
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englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,657
1,143
La Verne
dang udi told you to take a shim off?
thats actually the opposite of what i would do for a 200lb rider
and your um more than a 200lb rider.....
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
20,064
10,627
AK
Well the 40 is Evol now so going to do some messing with shims...

Per another I'm also going to mess with shims in RC2 (take a face shim off) ....So avy cart first and get it dialed, I know it can dial in about any way I want for best possible for to me....that's what I LOVE about the cart.
You got a showa cart tool?
 

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
2,135
1,364
Styria
dang udi told you to take a shim off?
thats actually the opposite of what i would do for a 200lb rider
and your um more than a 200lb rider.....
I doubt it...

Agreed, personally I've really liked Fox compression dampers since they switched to the inverted FIT RC2 (in 2011). Apart from occasionally adding an extra (or thicker) face shim to the compression stack, I've found them very capable compression dampers, with minimal spiking at high levels of support, and generous levels of external adjustability for different types of tracks/riding.
(...)
And there is more if you look for it.

My rule on the stock compression damper is if you're running HS shut and LS past 1/2 you need it valved firmer, otherwise it gets too harsh.

So if you have to go back to your awful FIT and want it to feel better, I'd try these things:

- Change compression stack face shim from 16.7x0.1 to 16.7x0.2mm (no less)
- Swap seal head to updated 36 item, I think it's better sealed
- Larger rebound piston porting, which I'm keen to try out too!
 
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englertracing

you owe me a sandwich
Mar 5, 2012
1,657
1,143
La Verne
Tip
2 x 0.01 does not equal a 0.02
It's more like 3 and some change 0.01 to equal an 0.02

So changing the 0.010 to an 0.020 is like adding two additional 0.010

I've added two Moar shimz before
It's Hella moar stiffer....

Try one and see how much of that hsc dial you need.

Also note in 2015? Fox switched from 10w red to 5w for the rc2 cartridges.

The lsc needle was altered for this. 10w with the new needle doesn work the best.