What's wrong with IH?yeah, I would stay away from there cheap bikes.
Try a specialized hard rock disc.
yeah, I would stay away from there cheap bikes.
Try a specialized hard rock disc.
Do NOT spend a lot of money on your first bike. Do buy from a reputable and respected LBS (local bike shop).Hi all, I'm new to this here forum and I'm lookin' at getting a new bike. The one I'm looking at is an Iron Horse, anyone know anything about these guys?
Well Iron Horse makes everything from $175 Sports Authority specials, to $5000 World Cup Downhill bikes.Hi all, I'm new to this here forum and I'm lookin' at getting a new bike. The one I'm looking at is an Iron Horse, anyone know anything about these guys?
whatever you're smokin, I don't want any.yeah, I would stay away from there cheap bikes.
You can get a bike on clearance from your LBS for $350.It's an Iron Horse Quantum ($350 @ Sports Authority).
And if you're going to be riding for any length of time, a good hydration pack will be quite helpful too!damn bro, where do you live? Sometimes the "best" shops don't cater to those of us on a budget.
Look, no worries about the IH from SA... they're a good company and a solid bike.
After you put about a 100 miles on the bike, search here for some info on tuning up your bike. It's not hard and you might already have the tools. If not, they're cheap.
Don't forget to buy a frame pump, spare tubes, and tire irons so you can change a flat while out and about. I recommend praticing a few times at home... you'll look like a hero when your girl gets a flat and you fix it for her.
also, WEAR A FVCKING HELMET!
For your purposes, the IH Quantum will be plenty of bike. Good luck, and welcome to ridemonkey! Enjoy your new bike.It's an Iron Horse Quantum, and it is one of those sports authority bikes. I can't afford any of the ones from my LBS...college is expensive. And I don't really ride very hard, most of the time i ride with my girlfriend on a lot of paved paths and I occasionally ride on some gravel and dirt paths.
First step: Remove Reflectors.Well to anyone that wants to know. I went and got the IH quantum for Sports authority. It rides awsome, way better than any other bike I've owned. And went on about a 6mi. ride the day I got it and nothing outta the ordinary, from what I know about bikes anyway.
Here's some pics...
View attachment 92275
View attachment 92276
hey, look how cool I am!First step: Remove Reflectors.
First step: Remove Reflectors.
I'd recommend a good pair of padded shorts (no underwear underneath either).Also, When I went riding last night man did my arse get sore! what would work better, a cooshier seat or padded shorts?
Less rotational mass. And they just look stupid.hey, look how cool I am!
Why remove them? Is there some incredible performance gain to be had?
Plus, if it's an urban bike, well, maybe it'll help a car spot him.
OK, so i've been doing a lot of riding with my new and have a couple questions. This is the first bike I've owned with disc brakes and noticed you (at least I) can't really skid. Do I just have weak brakes? They are discs, but they're cable actuated as opposed to hydrualic (More power in hydros) so you're loosing a little braking power with the cable stretching. I'm not familiar with that model of cable disc brake to know whether it has a separate pad adjuster knob (a way to get the pads closer to the rotor w/o rubbing) but you could always loosen the bolt that holds the cable to the caliper (where the brake pads are) then pull the cable taut and re-tighten the bolt. Cables (brake and shifter) will stretch out over time. So every once in awhile, just tighten 'em up (you can do it, or have a shop do it...the shop might charge you for some of the minor maintenance items like this so learn as much as you can on each visit...)... Or are they designed like that so you can brake hard through a corner and not lose traction? Although the front brake works FANTASTIC compared to my old bike. Are you supposed brake more with the front and less with the back?
Also, in some of the gears the chain rubs on the front deraileur a little bit. Should I take it in and get it adjusted or is stuff like that just something that comes along with having a multi-speed bikes. It depends, I'm sure there's some cable stretch going on, but also if, for example, you're in the smallest gear in the front and the smallest gear in the back (this is bad!) the chain is at quite an angle (you want to try and keep the chain as straight and inline with itself as possible for wear and performance reasons)...so that could cause some of it. But definitely check the cable tension first. I'd recommend taking it in for the LBS to check over and you can take notes (mental or scribble them down for later reference) on what they did to get it working better. Then just be aware of the chainline after that, it takes a bit to get used to having the right gears at the right time...
please don't be mad at me for being a N0.ob...:huh: \
thanks.
Checking the Marz site...says that the fork on your bike just has Preload adjusters on both legs...So basically both of the adjusters just adjust the amount of load placed on the springs in the fork prior to you getting on the bike. This will adjust how stiff the fork is initially (before you hit any bumps).ok, so there's like a break-in period for some of the components on MT bikes? and on the fork, there are turny things on the top with + and - on it which I'm guessing is to adjust how soft/stiff the fork is. Is one knob for compression and the other for rebound or do they do the same thing?
Man, I just realized i didn't get an owners manual with it? I should really go back there and tell them to get me an owners manual! It would probably answer a lot of my questions w/ out having to bug everyone on here.
Cool thx. About how long is a typical break-in period and do you just take it in for a tune-up after that period?