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Installing a bottom bracket

dan_mtcycle

Chimp
Jun 14, 2002
32
0
Ohio
What are the steps in intalling a bottom bracket? Do I need any specialty tools? Any important points to note/potential problems? For pecifics, I plan on installing an FSA Ultimax Pro BB on my MC San Andreas (73mm bb) w/ a RF Prodigy DH crank set.:confused:
 

BikeGeek

BrewMonkey
Jul 2, 2001
4,577
277
Hershey, PA
You'll need one of these:
(click for detail)

Install the BB and fixed cup first and then the non-drive side cup. I like to apply a small amount of grease to the threads and to the inside of the non-drive side cup. Be very careful when installing that you don't cross-thread.
 

Tweek

I Love Cheap Beer!
Once you get the cranks off ...

Lightly grease the threads on the BB shell.
Put some nickel anti-seize (preferred) on the threads of the BB cups.
If your derailleur cable goes past the bottom of your BB shell (bottom-pull), check that the screw that goes through the cable plate won't interfere with putting the BB in the shell.
Thread the bracket into the shell by hand, then tighten it with a bottom bracket tool.

Pretty sure with the RaceFace, you'll use a splined socket that'll fit onto a socket wrench driver. The socket fits over the spindle into the drive side cup (you'll see the splines from the outside). If you don't have the socket, you can use a hook spanner wrench that fits around the outside of the cup. You just need to be more careful, as they can slip off while torquing.

Torque to manufacturer's specs and check that the driveside and non-driveside cups are flush with the shell. Some BB's use spacers, so again, check with the RaceFace instructions that come with the BB.

Good luck.
 

myke

Chimp
Nov 16, 2001
27
0
MA
the ultimax is isis yes? Make sure you get the fsa, raceface or possibly the newest park BB tool or it wont work. The stainless stop ring on the spindle is too big for non-isis tools.

Check for the right length spindle-

Drive side is reverse threaded, left hands threads...counterclockwise to tighten
 
D

dwnwrd

Guest
I'm installing an XT es70 BB into my 2002 Bullit and the drive side cup is about a millimeter away from the BB shell. Might that be normal or am I not tightening enough?

I'm really afraid I'm going to slip and strip those splines out of the cup if I try any harder.

The threads are greased and the non-drive side is flush against the shell.
 

BikeGeek

BrewMonkey
Jul 2, 2001
4,577
277
Hershey, PA
Originally posted by dwnwrd
I'm installing an XT es70 BB into my 2002 Bullit and the drive side cup is about a millimeter away from the BB shell. Might that be normal or am I not tightening enough?

I'm really afraid I'm going to slip and strip those splines out of the cup if I try any harder.

The threads are greased and the non-drive side is flush against the shell.
Weird. It sits flush on every bike I've worked on. Is the BB the right size, ie. 68 vs 73?
 

oldfart

Turbo Monkey
Jul 5, 2001
1,206
24
North Van
The flange should be flush with the bb shell. If its really hard to tighten further, bring the frame back to the shop. It might need to have the threads in the bb shell chased or threaded in further. Its possible that Santa Cruz didn't thread the shell deeply enough.
 

mrbigisbudgood

Strangely intrigued by Echo
Oct 30, 2001
1,380
3
Charlotte, NC
Originally posted by dwnwrd
I'm installing an XT es70 BB into my 2002 Bullit and the drive side cup is about a millimeter away from the BB shell. Might that be normal or am I not tightening enough?

I'm really afraid I'm going to slip and strip those splines out of the cup if I try any harder.

The threads are greased and the non-drive side is flush against the shell.
You need to put the drive side in flush, then use the non drive side to snug the assembly into the frame. You just got your order of operations a little backwards.

So....back out the non drive side, flush up the drive side, then snug up the non drive side.