[RMboy]

Hey all

Just brought my self an M6, got it for a very good price over on your side of the pond.

Just wanted to ask a few set up question about the old girl

Its a large and it comes with the CCDB with a 400lbs ti spring(im a very lucky boy)...but i weigh 190lbs with kit, is this the correct spring weight for me?

Anyone got any quick setup hints on that shock. i'm going to work on it, but any tips if your the same weight would be great!

Lastly any issues i should watch out for. Bearing wear, play, chain guide set up..???all that shizzle.

My CCDB did not come with spherical bearings, just bushings, is that normal? i thought they all came with them

Any help would be great

Cheers Guys

 

[Kanye West]

Spherical bearings are only for eyelets with spacings of 25mm or less. The rest get Cane Creek DU bushing and reducers. I think Intense uses some weird 33.xyz size.

400# sounds kinda high for that frame.

 

[homeless@home]

Running a medium with the revox and a 350 spring. Shock has got some love at TF tuned shox - service and valving to fit the bike and my weight, I'm 85kg with gear so a 400 seems a bit much for you. I have almost no preload on the spring to keep the sag near 30%. That's all I can help with the schock.

Things to watch

Bearings, take the swing apart and check the bearings doesn't matter if the bike is new or used. No need to pull out the bearings unless they don't move but pop off the lids and fill with grease specialy the lower ones, they get a good beating and are the first to wear out and have play if you don't give them some love. Dry conditions do this every other month more often if it's messy. It's done in less than an hour and you get to clean the areas where lots of muck run through - links and shock.

Play in the swing is most common when the bearings are worn. Haven't heard of a M6 with problems with the swing as some SS frames had. Could have been the bearing holes that wasn't good so the bearing it self was moving.

I'm running a -08 E-13 LG1 and saint cranks. Installation was no problem just had to use a xtra 1mm washer to get the guide - chainring right. General fiddle so no worries.

Feel free to ask if there's more you think of.

 

[Christiaan]

I way 155lbs (70kg) and run a 250 spring, so 400 might be a bit hard for you.

Watch the upper link ,they sometimes get hairline cracks in them

 

[boogenman]

I'm 200lbs with gear, I run a 400lb with no preload, look for a 350.

If your 400lb is Ti I might buy it from you

 

[Junkie]

I have a M3 and weigh 85kg, any idea what size spring I should run, I was under the impression M3's and M6's were very similar is this correct?

 

[Kanye West]

Not very similar at all for springweights. 450# on the M3 for that weight.

 

[Junkie]

Not very similar at all for springweights. 450# on the M3 for that weight.

Would I get away with a 500# ? or will it feel like crap ? thats the spring it came with

 

[Kanye West]

Might work ok. I used a 400# spring which was ok for me at 170#. I could have used a 450# comfortably though.

 

[RMboy]

Cheers Guys for the responses.

By the looks of it i wilol need to get a lighter spring.. Bit crap, but oh well, i want it to ride good! (its A Ti 400lbs 3.5 spring if any is interested)

I will have ago at greasing the bearings, but i have never flipped the caps off them before, is this a n easy task to do? Do i need some sort of fine tipped tool to get behind the seal?

 

[Fred.dh]

Im 95kg with gear... only ride downhill and im using the #450x3.5 .... in some locations i feel like the #400 would fit good (in whistler i ride the #400.. like 15 days and feels great!!)... but in gnarly tracks i think that 450 would be more apropriated..(on a m6 you have also to be attention on the height of bb... we´re talking about a 13" bike......)

 

[homeless@home]

For the lids of the bearings just use a carpetknife, razorblade or thin sharp knife and gently pop it off like on the picture. The lid is made of a rubbercoverd metalring so it comes off easy when you get under it from the side.

 

[RMboy]

^^ awsome cheers, mate, will give it ago!

 

[WillCollins]

From the year I spent on the m6 frame, I would suggest running less sag rather than more. It may be entirely personal preference, but due to the wheel path of the vpp suspension, the bike will blow through the travel a lot easier than you may be used to. In order for me to have the bike ride responsively I had to run about 10% of sag. (190 pounds x 450 pound spring rate with mid level compression settings)

I don't know what level your riding is at, and if you're just in it to have fun... running the bike more supple will most likely be more enjoyable. But if you're striving to take seconds or even milliseconds off the clock, a stiffer setup will most likely work in your advantage.

Unfortunately the CCDB doesn't work very well on the m6. According to Cane Creek, the frame doesn't allow the shock to use it's full stroke which results in strange bottom out issues in different areas of the frame. I'm not saying it's not going to work, but if you have the opportunity to switch the shock out for something else and make a bit of cash, it might be worth it. I didn't have a single problem with my Revox. Reguardless of the shock keep an eye on your DU bushings. I occasionally roasted the lower one in as little as a run!

Lastly, keep an eye on your pivot bolts! They have a strange tendency to back out in the middle of a run leaving you stranded. Be sure to have spares, as any amount of lock-tite didn't seem to help. A friend of mine made a "lock" of sorts by sliding about a 4" bolt through the top two pivot bolts as they have the biggest tendency of coming loose. Ever since he did that he hasn't had a single issue...

Have fun, it's a rad frame!
Will

 

[2kansharan]

Running a medium with the revox and a 350 spring. Shock has got some love at TF tuned shox - service and valving to fit the bike and my weight, I'm 85kg with gear so a 400 seems a bit much for you. I have almost no preload on the spring to keep the sag near 30%. That's all I can help with the schock.


I'm running a -08 E-13 LG1 and saint cranks. Installation was no problem just had to use a xtra 1mm washer to get the guide - chainring right. General fiddle so no worries.

Feel free to ask if there's more you think of.

hey im about to get my m6 im about 85-90kg and want to know how much did the tf tune do to your shock is it worth it did you notice a difference ? etc

 

[igz-]

Lol @ Dub Beezy not working well on the M6... (and that Manipewp is better)

You smokin' crack son.


I weight 150 lbs and run a 300lb Ti spring. I used to run a 400 but it was a bit too stiff...
I'm also running the bike with only 8" of travel.

 

[homeless@home]

The tuning on the revox made a big difference, the shock stopped blowing through as before. I should have put on a couple of kilos more when I put the order to have it ramp up a bit more at the end. So don't be shy on your weight if you talk to them and place an order, also check the springrate.

They are really good to deal with, great to talk to and give you the information you need. Get your stuff there in time and then you should be able to get your gear out of the post office in 2 days after service, at least I had and that package went to sweden. Open the box and read the letter you get with all information you could need, whos done the work, what he's done, observation/ recommendation they've done during the service and for you to watch and finally the set-up instructions do's and don'ts.

What they do is to shim the compression to beef it up, they leave all the compression fully open for their trick to work and then you pump it up ****loads - in my case I kick in 200psi of air in it to make it flow alot more than the stock.

Hope this helped in your decision what to do with it when it arrives.