[jacksonpt]

I bought a Park Mini Chain Brute and a new chain at the LBS the other day. I got them to have on the trail incase my chain ever broke.

I was cleaning the mud and grime off my bike after yesterday's ride and it occured to me that I could get the drivetrail a lot cleaner a lot easier if I took the chain off. So I used the Mini Chain Brute to remove the chain. I cleaned the rings, cassette, chain, pulleys, etc. and let everything dry over night.

I went out to the garage this afternoon to put the chain back the bike... I got the chain all lined up and used the Mini Chain Brute to reconnect the links.

No problems to this point. Everything is lined up, connected and looking good.

I give the pedals a few turns and notice that the link I disconnected won't pivot as the chain goes around. I put a couple drops of lube on and let it soak in for a few minutes, then give the pedals a few turns... still no luck.

So, am I a bone head for leaving the chain disconnected/pin exposed while I cleaned the chain and while it dried overnight? Did I basically remove all the lubrication at that pivot point? Or am I missing something about putting pins back into chain links?

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[SwisSlesS]

The problem is the way you reconnected it. When you use a chain tool, the link you put back together will always be very tight. There are two parts of the tool that you are supposed to use. The first is when you put the chain in the slot furthest from the crank part of the tool. This part is where you remove and push the pin. Once the pin is in, you need to move the chain to the slot closest to the crank part of the tool. In this slot, you give the handle a fraction of a turn. This part pushes only one side of the chain apart, which loosens the link. I know this may sound confusing, it is much easier to explain with the tool in front of you.

 

[jacksonpt]

Ah, much better - you were exactly right... I didn't use the slot closest to the crank, so the link was never loosening up. Thanks much for the help.

 

[SwisSlesS]

Here's the best picture I could find and best Photoshop work I could do.

 

[SwisSlesS]

Originally posted by jacksonpt
Ah, much better - you were exactly right... I didn't use the slot closest to the crank, so the link was never loosening up. Thanks much for the help.

Cool. But make sure when using the slot closest to the crank that there's enough pin sticking out on each side of the chain. If not, you could be in danger for breaking your chain. Not to worry you or anything .

 

[Rev.Chuck]

Is that a Shimano chain, you are supposed to replace the entire pin with a double length pin that has a guide piece you snap off after installation. You also have to be careful not to push tha guide pin out later as it will oversize the hole in the plate.
Be careful, reusing the shimano pin can cause a failure while riding.
If you want to pull your chain off to clean it, get one of the "quick links".

 

[Old_Dude]

If you want to pull your chain off to clean it, get one of the "quick links".

See - toltja!

 

[jacksonpt]

Originally posted by Old_Dude
See - toltja!

hehe... yea, I know - I took your advice too. The chain I bought at the LBS is a SRAM with the quick link... looks very slick. The chain I was working on was an old, but seldom used shimano chain.

 

[lanman]

Once you throw the chain on there, give it some lube and bend the link back and forth a few times, perpendicular to the direction of the chain, this will loosen it up sufficiently

 

[Old_Dude]

I thought you could buy a "quick-link" thingy which could be used with Shimano chains . . . I'm not sure, but I don't think you'll be able to just buy a SRAM quick link and then use it on just any chain (like Shimano, for example), but . . . I could be wrong . . .

 

[Jebadiah]

Originally posted by lanman
Once you throw the chain on there, give it some lube and bend the link back and forth a few times, perpendicular to the direction of the chain, this will loosen it up sufficiently

This is the time tested method of final chain adjustment. I've done it for 30 years, however I now ONLY use SRAM chains, they are easy to take off/put on and I believe they shift as good or better than the Shimano.

 

[Rustmouse]

the trick with shimano chains is two-part

part one... use a new break off pin, don't try to reuse an old pin...

part 2, when you are pushing the new pin through, as it gets through the other end, you'll feel it get tougher to turn the handle on your chain tool as the last ridge goes through the other end of the chain, then it gets easier again.. just as it barely starts to get harder to turn the handle... stop turning. That keeps the pin from driving in so hard that it tightens the link and prevents them from pivoting.

(btw, shimano says to replace the chain when you have more than 3 of those pins in there... I'm running a chain that's all pins practically... never broke it yet)

Edit - I've never seen a difference either way between a SRAM chain and a Shimano chain, as far as quality goes.. and SRAM has the fancy quick link that is much easier to fix in a pinch...

 

[fonseca]

The powerlink also works fine on Shimano chains. Pick one up for $3 at your LBS and you can then remove your chain for a proper cleaning.

I ran powerlinks for years on Shimano chains without a single failure. Well, the powerlink never failed, but I broke plenty of Shimano chains during those years (never close to the powerlink btw, just to counter any theories about broken chains). Sram chains are superior imo.