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Jenny Craig my bike please...(longish)

Meat Foot

Monkey
Mar 24, 2004
269
0
On the asthenosphere
Need a bit of advice. Currently my SS is feeling a bit overweight for what I "think" it should be. I ball park 23-24lbs right now. So where can I make some worthwhile weight reductions? Obviously a set of DT240 wheels would be nice, but don't have the coin. Maybe a Kona P2 fork in place of the existing? I have some trivial weight saving items in my parts bin for when it is rainy out, I can switch out.

So here is the current build:
Dean Private (ebb) (keeper)
Dimension Disc only fork
Cane Creek S-2 HS (keeper?)
Avid SD 1.9 Levers
Avid mechs (keeping)
XT/mavic 317 (here's some fat)
Thompson Stem (keep)
Monkey Light Bar (keep)
ODI Lock ons
Easton EA50 post (could trim here?)
WTB Saddle (cro-mo rails proly in the 350-400 g range) (Selle Flite?)
Truvativ Hussfelt crankset (XT or LX, weight savings???)
Salsa Ring (can't swing a Boone at $86 each)
DX cog (have a Chris King to mount when rainy)
Sram PC7x (keeping)
Shimano M535 pedals (have Egg Beaters to mount when it rains)

Ahhh, tires....well:
Currently have a Panaracer FR 2.4 (900+ grams of pure pleasure)..might mount the Cinder up front and put back the Panaracer Fire XC Pro on the back.

So Like Keith Bontrager says "Light, cheap, strong - pick 2"

I am trying to keep prices down but have some spending money at my disposal. :nopity: So Monkeys, what would you look at getting rid of? Replace with?

Thanks
 

Buck Fever

Monkey
Jul 12, 2004
255
0
Hipsterville USA
Meat Foot said:
Need a bit of advice. Currently my SS is feeling a bit overweight for what I "think" it should be. I ball park 23-24lbs right now. So where can I make some worthwhile weight reductions? Obviously a set of DT240 wheels would be nice, but don't have the coin. Maybe a Kona P2 fork in place of the existing? I have some trivial weight saving items in my parts bin for when it is rainy out, I can switch out.

So here is the current build:
Dean Private (ebb) (keeper)
Dimension Disc only fork
Cane Creek S-2 HS (keeper?)
Avid SD 1.9 Levers
Avid mechs (keeping)
XT/mavic 317 (here's some fat)
Thompson Stem (keep)
Monkey Light Bar (keep)
ODI Lock ons
Easton EA50 post (could trim here?)
WTB Saddle (cro-mo rails proly in the 350-400 g range) (Selle Flite?)
Truvativ Hussfelt crankset (XT or LX, weight savings???)
Salsa Ring (can't swing a Boone at $86 each)
DX cog (have a Chris King to mount when rainy)
Sram PC7x (keeping)
Shimano M535 pedals (have Egg Beaters to mount when it rains)

Ahhh, tires....well:
Currently have a Panaracer FR 2.4 (900+ grams of pure pleasure)..might mount the Cinder up front and put back the Panaracer Fire XC Pro on the back.

So Like Keith Bontrager says "Light, cheap, strong - pick 2"

I am trying to keep prices down but have some spending money at my disposal. :nopity: So Monkeys, what would you look at getting rid of? Replace with?

Thanks

Mike?

the most obvious chubby items there are the wheels, brakes, pedals and saddle.

Definitely consider switching wheels, the XT hubs are hefty. There are any number of wheels out there that will drop some weight, you just need to figure out whether it's worth it for you in terms of $$. IMO, there's nothing wrong with Mavic 317 rims, it's just the hubs that are tankish. If you find a hubset you like, I'll build your wheels for some beer.

You say you're keeping the Avids, but if I'm not mistaken, they're the source of quite a bit of weight as well. Keep your mind open to this one for a later time.

As for your pedals and saddle, you should run with what makes you comfy. I like Crank Bros pedals, but hated the Eggbeaters especially in tech sections if I goofed and had to dab. So I put them on my roadie and got some candies for my MTB which I like much better.

I've also run WTB saddles forever and love them so much that back in '97 or so, I bought 4 of them from a WTB rep. Changing over to a racier saddle will definitely save you some weight, but don't do it at the expense of comfort. If you're set on a Flite, I have one I'll sell you for cheap that I've only used a few times. I can also show you how to save a few grams on your WTB. I don't know if you noticed my saddle on my abbreviated ride with you, but I've trimmed quite a bit from the sides of the saddle which makes it much more comfortable and has a slight bennie of saving a tiny bit o weight.

You could replace the lock-on's with some Cinelli road tape. It saves some weight (and I have done this on my Epic) but it's not as comfy for me as the Lock-on grips. It's a wee bit too mush for my tastes and my hands get tired.

Oh and tires...again, weight vs. performance. After running tires ranging from 2.2 to 2.5 over the past 5 or so years, I have a hard time going back to 2.0 tires. They just don't bite enough for me. I'm not even wild about the Mich All Terrain 2.2's I'm running on my Epic but I'm determined to keep them there until they wear out. You could always go with something light in the back and your nice fat, grippy tire up front to keep the good handling where it needs to be.

Buck (Smudge/Sean)
 

Meat Foot

Monkey
Mar 24, 2004
269
0
On the asthenosphere
Buck Fever said:
Mike?

the most obvious chubby items there are the wheels, brakes, pedals and saddle.

Definitely consider switching wheels, the XT hubs are hefty. There are any number of wheels out there that will drop some weight, you just need to figure out whether it's worth it for you in terms of $$. IMO, there's nothing wrong with Mavic 317 rims, it's just the hubs that are tankish. If you find a hubset you like, I'll build your wheels for some beer.

You say you're keeping the Avids, but if I'm not mistaken, they're the source of quite a bit of weight as well. Keep your mind open to this one for a later time.

As for your pedals and saddle, you should run with what makes you comfy. I like Crank Bros pedals, but hated the Eggbeaters especially in tech sections if I goofed and had to dab. So I put them on my roadie and got some candies for my MTB which I like much better.

I've also run WTB saddles forever and love them so much that back in '97 or so, I bought 4 of them from a WTB rep. Changing over to a racier saddle will definitely save you some weight, but don't do it at the expense of comfort. If you're set on a Flite, I have one I'll sell you for cheap that I've only used a few times. I can also show you how to save a few grams on your WTB. I don't know if you noticed my saddle on my abbreviated ride with you, but I've trimmed quite a bit from the sides of the saddle which makes it much more comfortable and has a slight bennie of saving a tiny bit o weight.

Buck (Smudge/Sean)
Buck?
You rang? Yep it is me. I am in lurk mode right now. Brakes? What we looking at? I like the no nonsense approach to mechanicals I guess. I am sure there are others out there. Hubs, I like the $/weight ratio of the American Classics. I have rebadged 240s on my geared bike. With the aluminum cassette body I will have to definitiely run a wide base cog (which the King is). I would definitely be interested in the saddle. Ti rails? (I know beggers can't be choosers..). PM me.

Thanks Buck!
 

Buck Fever

Monkey
Jul 12, 2004
255
0
Hipsterville USA
Meat Foot said:
Buck?
You rang? Yep it is me. I am in lurk mode right now. Brakes? What we looking at? I like the no nonsense approach to mechanicals I guess. I am sure there are others out there. Hubs, I like the $/weight ratio of the American Classics. I have rebadged 240s on my geared bike. With the aluminum cassette body I will have to definitiely run a wide base cog (which the King is). I would definitely be interested in the saddle. Ti rails? (I know beggers can't be choosers..). PM me.

Thanks Buck!
PM Sent.

I've had a different experience with Avid Mechs than most I suppose. The ones on my wifes bike are in constant need of adjustment and start dragging about two minutes after I adjust the pads.

I've been using Hopes since 1998 and feel that they're the best brakes I've ever used. Some people complain about the setup, but it's really no big deal, just not as quick as with the Avids or Hayes. It pays to take the time to do it right. So if you ever want to switch teams, I also have the disc mount facing tool (but I don't know if it will face Ti)

The King kog does great on an Al hub body. I've been running them on my trials bikes for years and haven't damaged a hub body yet. I did manage to crack a kog in three places though.
 

Bicyclist

Turbo Monkey
Apr 4, 2004
10,152
2
SB
Those cranks are insanely heavy. Check out LX outboard cranks. The're light, cheap and stiff. You should also check out Am. Classic hubs. They rock.
 

mtnbikej

Monkey
Sep 13, 2001
168
0
So. CAL.
Cranks are very heavy. Truvativ makes a SS specific crankset. Pretty light and not hard on the bank account.

XT hubs are boat anchors. Ditch them for something else....try the Surly's....about 100g lighter for the rear only.

Fire FR......definately drop that. Cinder is ok.....still around 700g. Try something else.

Just my opinion.

mtnbikej
 

Bicyclist

Turbo Monkey
Apr 4, 2004
10,152
2
SB
The TruValue cranks are the Stylo SS. They're not as versatile as 3-ring cranks with just one ring, though.
 

mtnbikej

Monkey
Sep 13, 2001
168
0
So. CAL.
Yes I know they are the Stylo SS......I ran them on my Surly.

But you said nothing about needing to be versatile. At under 600g they are light. :thumb:

mtnbikej
 

Meat Foot

Monkey
Mar 24, 2004
269
0
On the asthenosphere
Most things switched out, and using our food scale (with a paper towel laid don, yes I tared it), I am at a savings of 732 g or 1.61 lb for the sum of $266.....[drum roll] 36.339 cents/gram! Nice. This does not take into account the tires yet, because I don't have all the weights. I am using my Hayes Superlight front wheel and when I get my other bike back (or go to the shop and steal the rear wheel from it) I will save more there too. I have not weighed all of the wheels, but I assume I will save somewhere close to a pound. Thanks all!
:dancing:
 

Bicyclist

Turbo Monkey
Apr 4, 2004
10,152
2
SB
You should check out both the Specialized Fast Trak Pro 2.2 and Specizlized Enduro Pro 2.3 or 2.4. Both are light and grippy, but the Fast Trak is faster and lighter. I would consider running a Fast Trak rear and Enduro 2.4 Front for a grippy and light setup.