ok. well since you said its glorified toilet paper it must be true. Wait!!!! AngryMetalsmith dont look into what i said your eyes will turn insideout and you will be force to sniff out your dogs fecal matter on you hands and knees only having Ken Rockwell's work to pick it up with!!! O what karmic justice will smite me for mentioning this monstrosity!!!!
If you are doing macro and focusing manually, or using live view AF, it's a non issue.
What he's talking about is auto focus fine tuning. This adjustment makes up for slight inaccuracies of the AF system with various lenses, as matched to a particular camera. You can store banks of af tunings for multiple lenses in the D7000.
The AF sensor uses phase detection and it is located just forward and below the image sensor in the mirror box. Using AF fine tuning adjusts the settings on this AF sensor to a particular lens. Many lenses can be slightly soft in focus - back focusing or front focusing, even if within factory tolerances. This is most noticeable at close distances and shallow DOF.
Using live view AF, it focuses by measuring contrast on the image senor plane, so it's always dead on.
IIRC everything I shot under f32 had blurred edges on the piece. The same photographer who's been giving me tips suggested the f32 setting to gain the maximum depth of field. I can try a couple of f11 shots later tonight.
I ran across my notes from what the pro suggested for aperture which was f22 not f32. Oops. I guess that would put me right in the middle of f11 and f32. Could be a good balance between sharpness and depth of field. More testing...
I'm mostly manual focusing when I use the macro lens. I wonder though if I have the diopter dial set right. I'm wearing no. 2 reading glasses for doing bench work but don't need them to read, just to see the detail of what I'm working on. How much could that dial throw off the focus ?
So I've been working on shooting my rings that have a mirror finish on the inside with matt texture on the outside. Pretty tricky stuff. The light set up is still the same, but I made a white foam-core box to produce even reflections. During all this I discovered a couple of things. The reason why I am not getting a white background has to do with the mylar diffuser I am using which causes it to be grey. This can be corrected with a gel filter. The other thing is sharpening in PS. Last night I was finally able to achieve the level of sharpness I was after. Very, very happy with the results.
Thanks BV, the first image was shot at f25 which is what I use for most shots as it seems to give the best balance between sharpness and depth of field. The second one of the ring with a stone is focus stacked and stopped down to f18 since DOF was not a concern. I used four shots for that one. I find that if I start with the bottom of the subject then all I have to do is roll the focus ring counter clockwise a wee bit and take a shot until I reach the top. The four frames were developed in Lightroom and the focus stacked in Photoshop.
Did a few test shots of just the background and found that I can get a white background if I do not use the mylar. But un-diffused light and jewelry tend not to get along too well. A theater instructor friend confirmed that the mylar does indeed cause the grayness. He recommended a frost gel and there is a local place to buy a few sheets. Side note; it's in the hood and you have to call ahead so they can come unlock the door.
I agree, getting it right in camera is the best way. For now I'll have to settle for some new diffuser material, but want to invest in a couple of good lights. Been looking at Alien Bees...gearitis.
No, still haven't scored any Bees yet. Been a slow year sales wise. I do however have a borrowed strobe to try out, but I need a sync cord to trip it. The slave cel ( ? ) doesn't seem to work. The only way I can trip it with the built in camera flash is if the back of the unit is in the frame.