[demo 9]

Plans for a superco in the words(frame comes last though) I want a nice light small fork. I do not know a ton about A2C heights and stuff, but i am thinking about a 65-80mm fork. I want it light, and i think i want it thru axle. I am open to hear about QR, but that seems so sketch for a huge double, or coming up short on a flyout 360. My last hardtail was a nice 34 pounds, and i would like to get around 30 (or less?)I want to go as light as possible and hopefully as small as possible, prefer no fancy weird colors, but function>fashion



I am used to running marzocchi dirt jumpers with 20mm thru axles, Should i just get another dirt jumper? They work, great fork for 2 years, than go to ****, but, all things considered, they take alot. Heavy?

Marz 4x? its light, it does 4x so whats not to love, although too much adjustments?

Fox forks? 831 is way to much money, and more travel than id like (but feel free to PM me if somebody knows where to find cheap) This is made for dirt jumping, sweet? i am a pretty loyal fox fan, but it seems the small travel floats are tiny and nothing strong, where the 36s are overkill to all hell.

Manitou-FAIL, dont want 1

Rockshox? Argyles, are they any good? light? easy to lower?


Other companies? open to ideas if they fit the criteria

Nemesis slammed Z150 freeride(100mm), looks a little rough, but its perfectly functional and has Ti internals (im told) Its free, but with a whole new bike in the works, not terrible to buy a new fork (and sell this 1) Dont want to ruin a nice bike with a fork that might not be the best?


I will buy used, so if any monkeys have a lowered lightweight fork for DJ, that isnt **** beaten, may be interested.

 

[mattt]

http://www.treefortbikes.com/#navbar=pro___333222350652___82

That fork... or cant go wrong with an 06-07 marzocchi DJ1. A few NOS ones on pinkbike right now

 

[TheTruth]

I like my agrylez. That or a fox. THe velvet seems dodgy/sketchy.

 

[cmc]

Manitou-FAIL, dont want 1
. . .

don't know why you say that. my manitou gold label has been awesome for almost 2 years. and i'm 6'1" 200 lbs. a shame they discontinued it. not sure about the Circus.

i also disagree with you on the X-fusion Velvet-R. bunch of locals here ride em and have zero issues. it's a very light fork with great jump responsiveness.

but whatever these are all personal preferences.

 

[Tetreault]

an argyle is a good simple and decently light fork, can't go wrong there, its what i would be choosing for your build

marz 4x, simple, set the adjustments and forget about them. if your used to the marz dj feel, this fork would probally be your favorite

 

[Pete..]

Fox forks? 831 is way to much money, and more travel than id like (but feel free to PM me if somebody knows where to find cheap) This is made for dirt jumping, sweet? i am a pretty loyal fox fan, but it seems the small travel floats are tiny and nothing strong, where the 36s are overkill to all hell.

You can lower the 831 to whatever pretty much.
If you go the 36 route you'll be able to throw whatever you want at it and it won't fail, unless you're an idiot. Go for a 36 Float R. You don't need the Float RC2 or the FiT stuff just keep it simple with the R, you don't want a Talas because those forks will internally break when kept at 100mm [which they aren't supposed to be kept at and take big hits] and pump it up with loads of air to get whatever travel you want, and you don't want a 36 Vanilla unless you wanna cut some springs.

 

[demo 9]

don't know why you say that. my manitou gold label has been awesome for almost 2 years. and i'm 6'1" 200 lbs. a shame they discontinued it. not sure about the Circus.

i also disagree with you on the X-fusion Velvet-R. bunch of locals here ride em and have zero issues. it's a very light fork with great jump responsiveness.

but whatever these are all personal preferences.

I dont mind the gold label all that much, manitou might make ok stuff, but they have sold me too much **** throughout the years, so i no longer support them, once they get rid of that image and other people "Guinea pig" it, i might jump on board.

So now down to the 4X, 36 float r, and the argyle,

which can be lowered EASILY?

 

[TheTruth]

I dont mind the gold label all that much, manitou might make ok stuff, but they have sold me too much **** throughout the years, so i no longer support them, once they get rid of that image and other people "Guinea pig" it, i might jump on board.

So now down to the 4X, 36 float r, and the argyle,

which can be lowered EASILY?

The argyle can be lowered the easiest. There is a whole thread on it on PB taking you step by step. It takes prob 5 minutes if you have the right spacers.

 

[Beast]

The argyle can be lowered the easiest. There is a whole thread on it on PB taking you step by step. It takes prob 5 minutes if you have the right spacers.

The fox takes 4:59.

 

[Dirtjumper999]

Argyle or Pike. Pike if you want better weight. If you want it around that travel, take the entire uturn assembly out and put in a solo air sleeve from an arygle (about 70bucks from rock shox) and put it in, dropping it to 100mm and then allowing the use of travel spacers to dial it in. It works wonderfully, you end up with a ~4lb fork that can take just about anything. The 36 dropped is what my friend runs on his black market, he has it slammed to 60.. but I've seen him having to take it apart more times than not. I ride an Argyle dropped to 90mm and I love it... Will probably end up going with the pike as soon as I get some extra cash. Say no to marzocchi and manipou.

 

[mattt]

i have had the same issues with service from Manitou and rockshox from years ago. the service from marzocchi was the best, before the bankrupt Tenneco thing (why i suggest the 06-07 model which are easily obtained for bout 200us). Their DJs are altered the easiest of any of the aforementioned forks- a 3/4 piece of PVC from any hardware store. The 06 fork im riding is still running well...

http://www.pinkbike.com/photo/4722246/

they're not the lightest tho... neither am i

 

[TheTruth]

The fox takes 4:59.

But the fox costs 459$ more.

 

[Dirtjumper999]

But the fox costs 459$ more.

Win. And it will have to be overhauled about 459 times more within a few years.

 

[boostindoubles]

I had a dj3 back in 2003 that was OK. It was strong and bomb proof, but weighed 7+ lbs. My buddy is still riding it on his mtn bike, 7 years later.

I ride fox because they've always treated me well. Never had anything break, snap, bend or malfunction in any way. Every couple years the oil leaks out and I replace the seals.

Bottom line though if you buy any fork and your a hack your gonna abuse it and it will break/bend/snap. If you know how to ride smooth and be jedi on a bike then your forks will last much longer, no matter what brand.

 

[demo 9]

I am thinking that i am going to try to pool out money for a 831 (used hopefully) I dont have the skills or knowledge to modify a frankenfork, and the 831 is super light. 4X and DJ# are too heavy. the 831 is interally adjustable to 80mm, so everything should be good, i will still take opinions though, as i am not buying it tonight.

 

[Paulyd]

after reading all this, i think i'm gunna buy myself a 4x.

 

[TheTruth]

after reading all this, i think i'm gunna buy myself a 4x.

Good! At least someone one is not a trend/consumer whore around here! Make sure its an 07 dammit!

 

[Pete..]

Good luck finding a used 831 any time soon.

 

[Paulyd]

Good! At least someone one is not a trend/consumer whore around here! Make sure its an 07 dammit!

i vow to try.

 

[demo 9]

Good luck finding a used 831 any time soon.

i figured that

 

[Paulyd]

i'm having little luck finding this fork.

 

[sittingduck]

I've killed all the suspension forks I've had. I don't even like them anymore, and have been running rigid on my hardtail for about a year now.

 

[Flat tyres]

Im just curious as to why you want to spend a bunch of cash on a new rig? The bike in your other post looks fully hooked, maybe even a little over kill. I know it feels good to have a sweet ride, but all that into a jumper? And your gonna loose you shirt on your old bike? It seems like your digging a money pit.

I seen some dudes rippin on beat old bikes that belong in museums, and I see kids show up with all ti **** who cant even ride. I try to stay in the middle - some decent **** and put down some decent skillz. I'd hate to see you build up a little gold mine then be afraid to send it, thats all.

 

[demo 9]

Im just curious as to why you want to spend a bunch of cash on a new rig? The bike in your other post looks fully hooked, maybe even a little over kill. I know it feels good to have a sweet ride, but all that into a jumper? And your gonna loose you shirt on your old bike? It seems like your digging a money pit.

I seen some dudes rippin on beat old bikes that belong in museums, and I see kids show up with all ti **** who cant even ride. I try to stay in the middle - some decent **** and put down some decent skillz. I'd hate to see you build up a little gold mine then be afraid to send it, thats all.

It will get ridden, my main complaint is that the other bike (which was sweet) can use alot of work, it is also heavy as fusk. I generally try to buy everything used or blown, so i can just repair it for half the price. i also feel that its a little big and heavy. Its been ridden 2 years on the original parts, i try to part out and escape before it needs more stuff. It seems that i will be parting out the good stuff, cut my losses on broken stuff, and trade my way into a new bike. You have a very good point though.

That is an older picture, it doesnt look that good anymore

 

[tmx]

Though this thread is already far along with specific fork info and opinions (...and bologna) I asked Doc if he could add some info that might help with Justin's decision.

A to C heights-A good rule of thumb for evaluating axle to crown heights for a dj hardtail is each inch of length (25.4mm) equates to just over one degree of headtube angle and about ¼ inch of BB height.

For any given amount of travel, 20mm thru axle forks tend to have longer A to C lengths than QR forks. Thru axle forks are intended to withstand more abuse and longer bushing overlap is common, making these forks longer.

Likely the Fox 831 internally lowered to 80mm will be the shortest and lightest choice. Set at 80mm travel, the Fox 32mm chassis forks are between 18” and 18.5” A to C (457mm-470mm).

With a sub 5 pound fork and a Superco frame it will be very easy to get the complete weight well under 28 lb.

We're happy to answer build questions but might not always catch them in the forums so please don't hesitate to drop us a line directly.



Off topic but wanted to mention this in case you were thinking of clearcoat. They're flying off the shelf and we only have a few clearcoat Chargers in stock. Already sold out of the XL clears and we have just a couple clear Satellite's on the shelf.

 

[Tetreault]

how did i know that you would get a 831 anyways? stop kidding us with other options we all know you have the funds to get it and get off on being the biggest trend whore or something

just so you know though a lighter bike doesn;t make you a better rider, why not just upgrade the parts on the simple that are boat anchors and get what you want for a lot less? superco's don't come cheap, but then again neither do banshee's, yeti's, canfields, demo's, or karpiels

 

[Dirtjumper999]

Im just curious as to why you want to spend a bunch of cash on a new rig? The bike in your other post looks fully hooked, maybe even a little over kill. I know it feels good to have a sweet ride, but all that into a jumper? And your gonna loose you shirt on your old bike? It seems like your digging a money pit.

I seen some dudes rippin on beat old bikes that belong in museums, and I see kids show up with all ti **** who cant even ride. I try to stay in the middle - some decent **** and put down some decent skillz. I'd hate to see you build up a little gold mine then be afraid to send it, thats all.

Once you get to a certain level with your riding, you have an idea of the things you absolutely want in your bike, geo, spec, etc. Any one persons "perfect" dj/park bike could take a good bit of thinking and researching to allow it to become the perfect match for the rider. I found my perfect bike and I am still ironing out some of the fine tuning geo adjustments like bar rise and angle for that matter.

 

[demo 9]

how did i know that you would get a 831 anyways? stop kidding us with other options we all know you have the funds to get it and get off on being the biggest trend whore or something

just so you know though a lighter bike doesn;t make you a better rider, why not just upgrade the parts on the simple that are boat anchors and get what you want for a lot less? superco's don't come cheap, but then again neither do banshee's, yeti's, canfields, demo's, or karpiels

enjoy your neg rep

 

[Dirtjumper999]

how did i know that you would get a 831 anyways? stop kidding us with other options we all know you have the funds to get it and get off on being the biggest trend whore or something

just so you know though a lighter bike doesn;t make you a better rider, why not just upgrade the parts on the simple that are boat anchors and get what you want for a lot less? superco's don't come cheap, but then again neither do banshee's, yeti's, canfields, demo's, or karpiels

Go get on a 30lb bmx bike and try a 360.. then go get on a 25lb bmx bike and try a 360. Once you get to a certain level in your progression as a rider, it starts to matter how much your bike weighs, and where the weight is in the bike. Lighter wheels and tires make for less rotational weight and thus faster spins and it makes it much easier to turn the bike for that matter. Lighter and stiffer cranks make energy transfer more efficient, thus making each controlled move on the bike, that much more effective. Weight doesn't play as big of a role when you are beginning as it does when you progress further. Stay in school.

 

[Flat tyres]

It will get ridden, my main complaint is that the other bike (which was sweet) can use alot of work, it is also heavy as fusk. I generally try to buy everything used or blown, so i can just repair it for half the price. i also feel that its a little big and heavy. Its been ridden 2 years on the original parts, i try to part out and escape before it needs more stuff. It seems that i will be parting out the good stuff, cut my losses on broken stuff, and trade my way into a new bike. You have a very good point though.

That is an older picture, it doesnt look that good anymore

Yea, that sounds like a plan. I have ridden stuff that was near the end of it's life. But I prefer to buy bits and pieces along the way and eventually have both bikes built and just sell off the old one. That wont work because your gonna keep some stuff. The price tag still seems like it's gonna be high. Not the kinda bike I'd be leaving in my truck overnite or alone at the trails while I go looking for water. Just sayin. When you get built up come on down and break her in on some souf jerz stuff - were 80% runnin.

 

[demo 9]

Yea, that sounds like a plan. I have ridden stuff that was near the end of it's life. But I prefer to buy bits and pieces along the way and eventually have both bikes built and just sell off the old one. That wont work because your gonna keep some stuff. The price tag still seems like it's gonna be high. Not the kinda bike I'd be leaving in my truck overnite or alone at the trails while I go looking for water. Just sayin. When you get built up come on down and break her in on some souf jerz stuff - were 80% runnin.

funny you mention that, im picking up a P1 for 100 bucks today as a "temporary" might even flip it when im done.

 

[jonKranked]

ah this thread is some funny sh*t

 

[DirtBag]

My opinion - build what you want. If you have the funds then build it. I custom build all of my bikes, I take my time, get what I want and construct the bike for me. Am I the best rider? No. Do I suck? No. I am in the middle somewhere. But I like bikes and I build killer rides because I can. I love the sport, enjoy it and enjoy riding a custom bike built by me, suited for me and only me.

I have an awesome Mob and really wanted a 24" to throw around so I built my Tonic. Do I need 2 DJ bikes? No. Do I like having 2 bikes? Hell Yes. Do it.

 

[jonKranked]

My opinion - build what you want. If you have the funds then build it. I custom build all of my bikes, I take my time, get what I want and construct the bike for me. Am I the best rider? No. Do I suck? No. I am in the middle somewhere. But I like bikes and I build killer rides because I can. I love the sport, enjoy it and enjoy riding a custom bike built by me, suited for me and only me.

and I am the ying to your yang. I slap together the hoopiest sh*t I can and go riding. My drivetrain on my road bike currently consists of a 7 speed rear hub with a bunch of random cogs slapped together with an XT derailler and a downtube shifter.

What do we have in common? We love to ride. Fvck everything else.




Is this relevant to dirt jumping? No. I'm just drunk.

 

[DirtBag]

Word.

 

[TheTruth]

So far I just learned how to build nice bikes. Derrr

 

[demo 9]

So far I just learned how to build nice bikes. Derrr

campmore taught you that?

 

[Tetreault]

enjoy your neg rep

well deserved thanks. do some research for a change there must be an uncountable amount of these threads pasted over the pages of the web

Go get on a 30lb bmx bike and try a 360.. then go get on a 25lb bmx bike and try a 360. Once you get to a certain level in your progression as a rider, it starts to matter how much your bike weighs, and where the weight is in the bike. Lighter wheels and tires make for less rotational weight and thus faster spins and it makes it much easier to turn the bike for that matter. Lighter and stiffer cranks make energy transfer more efficient, thus making each controlled move on the bike, that much more effective. Weight doesn't play as big of a role when you are beginning as it does when you progress further. Stay in school.

Bike weight never matters unless we are talking 40 pounds, 25 to 30 makes no difference, i have a light bike (sub 25) but everything i do on it i can also do on my buddy's 30 pounder. all this talk about rotational weight and lighter cranks giving you more control, yes it does exist but i think its alot more internet mumbo jumbo then it is actually practical in THE REAL WORLD. if you cant do it on a bike with massive diabolus cranks, a nice set of profiles or demolitions wont help you either.

 

[demo 9]

"for being childish and not contributing anything productive in this thread"

funny you mention that, as i am looking for help, and you are flaming for buying expensive parts and bikes or possibly disagreeing with you to save over a pound on a (in my opinion) better fork

 

[Tetreault]

there was no flaming intended in my origional 2 posts in this thread.

post one i gave you my opinion as to what i thought

after other people posted and your posts its clear you want the 831, for what ever reason thats fine, i happen to belive its the bling factor but thats cool to each his own.

my only issue is that this is quite a simple case, read a couple reviews and detmine what you want. EVERY fork you listed some people will have positive and negetive things to say about them. If you can justify a rediculous amount of money for a dj fork then go ahead if its what you really want

and for the record MY post that you gave negetive reputations actually has a positive reputation at this point