I would like to know, besides the fox 831, is there any other fork under 4 pounds? I know that some people on here can mix 5 forks and create a better one, i cant, i dont have many lite choices for forks that are 80mm or less, am i wrong?
Justin's Superco thread volume 1:fork
- Thread starter demo 9
- Start date
with lightness comes sacrifice. On my recent dj build that i did last year, i used a 32 float lowered to 80mm (before the 831 was availiable) i had used fox in the past and had great experiences with it (32 and 36 vanilla and talas) however with the float i found the feel to be off and almost unsmooth basically the total opposite of what i found with the vanilla models, i had heard of such feelings from air forks compared to spings but i didn't think it would be such a vast difference in feel.
with a dj fork what do you want? low amounts of stiff compression to take the edge off and the lowest amount of maintnese possible, basically i didnt find this from the float cartridge. i am now on a rigid because of those factors.
if i were to do it again, i would sacrifice the half pound of weight and get something that i would never have to worry about. what i like about marzocchi is that i have litterally ran those forks dry, without a touch of oil, i never touched them and found that they still did what i wanted even after multiple seasons.
fox needs lots of service, whether it be changing the oil or adding float fluid, checking for wear making sure the magnesium lowers havent sustained any damage, constantly fiddling with air pressures and worrying about having the lockout knobs hitting frames downtubes due to clearance issues (there are lots of them)
in the end i think the argyle fits in the middle, decent weight a good feel reasonable price and a good amount of maintense required (once a season not once every month like i had to do with the fox)
overall a dj bike takes alot of abuse if ridden like its supposed to, set and forget is by far one of the biggest aspects when i think about building a bike, there is a reason why profiles, thomson, hope, and mavic seem to find their way onto all of my bikes.
with a dj fork what do you want? low amounts of stiff compression to take the edge off and the lowest amount of maintnese possible, basically i didnt find this from the float cartridge. i am now on a rigid because of those factors.
if i were to do it again, i would sacrifice the half pound of weight and get something that i would never have to worry about. what i like about marzocchi is that i have litterally ran those forks dry, without a touch of oil, i never touched them and found that they still did what i wanted even after multiple seasons.
fox needs lots of service, whether it be changing the oil or adding float fluid, checking for wear making sure the magnesium lowers havent sustained any damage, constantly fiddling with air pressures and worrying about having the lockout knobs hitting frames downtubes due to clearance issues (there are lots of them)
in the end i think the argyle fits in the middle, decent weight a good feel reasonable price and a good amount of maintense required (once a season not once every month like i had to do with the fox)
overall a dj bike takes alot of abuse if ridden like its supposed to, set and forget is by far one of the biggest aspects when i think about building a bike, there is a reason why profiles, thomson, hope, and mavic seem to find their way onto all of my bikes.
Strange. Beyond the initial shimming (which took all of 5 minutes) I never had to touch my 36 Float. 1.5 years+ and still killing it.
The 36 has no clearance issues on the SuperCo.
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i've never used the 36 float, my float experience is only with the 32. 36's wont have cleance issues with many bikes, its the lockout knob that often does with the 32's
Well at least for now, its looking like the 831 (if i can get it cheap enough, i REFUSE to pay 831) the 4x or the argyle. 4x and argyle can be lowered by a novice?
no experience lowering a 4x but if its similar to a DJ then yes it should be really easy
argyle is quite simple as well
new 2010 fox 32's are a little more difficult due to the new tapered stanctions, it is required that the lowers be completely removed (no more pulling the shaft up through the top) spacers added new crush washers and fluids as well
argyle is quite simple as well
new 2010 fox 32's are a little more difficult due to the new tapered stanctions, it is required that the lowers be completely removed (no more pulling the shaft up through the top) spacers added new crush washers and fluids as well
I've had my Argyle 409 on my Charger for over a year now, and it's been great. I lowered it to close to 80mm, giving it about a 18.5" Axle to Crown. Previous to that I had the 1st generation Zoke 4X (which at that point was just DJ internals with a lighter crown). Both were relatively easy to lower, and did just fine. Krispy has an Argyle on his Satellite (can't remember if it is the 302 or 318). I think he left his at full height. We have had really good luck with all the Rock Shox forks in the last couple years. I think a Pike would be a good option as well.
We did just get one of the 831's at the shop, and it's damn sexy. I might have to start saving my pennies.
We did just get one of the 831's at the shop, and it's damn sexy. I might have to start saving my pennies.
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Go ride more. Then come back and talk. Being someone who has tested an absolute plethora of different freeride and dirtjump parts, I know there is a massive difference between high end, mid level, and low end. Weight is a big variable, and where the weight is on the bike is even more so. Stay in school.
good points getting brought up in here, as i said, the 831 leads (by weight and simplicity) with the argyle being 2nd and the 4x third.
I love my argyle.. if it could get below 4.5lbs, it'd be the perfect fork.. Are they making the 831 in 15mm like originally projected? or 20mm?
15mm, but the wheels that will be on it can be capped for 15mm
Its the one thing that erks me about the 831... why make things that much more difficult, everyone uses 20mm.. so why not use 20mm. Sigh.
agree, but who knows, maybe one day we might look back on it and realize how stupid 20mm is/was
so since you'll have a 831 in a month whats volume 2 for justins superco build?
ok? i guess your the mystical bike guru. i don't know where you go the idea that i would need to go ride more or that your "plethora" of bike testing is any greater then mine. weight makes a differance, but like i said if you cant do it on a 30 pounders its not magically going to work for you if you have a bike thats 5 pounds lighter
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ya im not sure with the 831, i am still waiting to hear back on pricing
It will be on here soon enough
do you have a complete potential build in mind? i would be curious to see a full spec list of what your planning on building?
Justin's Superco thread volume 2: Brake cable
repzz
Justin's Superco thread volume 3: bar ends
I am close to done(hypothetically of course)
831 or argyle
not sure on rear brake, (have a saint) but its part of a set i can either use or sell, so maybe an elixer or juicy.
i traded that BOS for i9 enduros
no idea on cranks/bb (i can use my vandettas with a different BB?)
deity stem i have sitting around, mayb deity bars too?
small block 8s.
deity seatpost (with shim) and odyssey junior seat.
plastic pedals (but dont know what ones yet)
sounds nice i cant imagine using i9's for street and dj though 
threaded alluminum spokes for taking blunt side impacts = scary scary scary
not to mention they arn't the lightest if thats what your going for
volume 4. what to replace i9's with? and im not being an ass im serious
threaded alluminum spokes for taking blunt side impacts = scary scary scary
not to mention they arn't the lightest if thats what your going for
volume 4. what to replace i9's with? and im not being an ass im serious
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FROM THE NEW THREAD
volume 2 solved
bring on volume 3
you have deity's use them, all you need is a 19mm mid bb kit, they are like 20 bucks and your set. why bother with new cranks if you have ones that work.
volume 2 solved
bring on volume 3
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Will the new BB kit fit the deity spindles correctly, I dont know the measurements, but i would think that a new mid BB could/would leave room for side to side play, the deity is a 68/73, does mid come in that width.
To address the industry 9 situation, i have the rear wheel from the simple i plan to keep, the Freecoaster laced to the pimp with the huge atomlab nipples, i figure that the Industries should survive fine for dirt jumping (ive seen a few set ups) and for street gnar and winter riding, throw on the pimp. The industry wheels weigh 1750 grams, not sure if that is good or not, but i rock I9s on everything else and love them, so why not this. (and the trade plus cash helped a little bit.
)
To address the industry 9 situation, i have the rear wheel from the simple i plan to keep, the Freecoaster laced to the pimp with the huge atomlab nipples, i figure that the Industries should survive fine for dirt jumping (ive seen a few set ups) and for street gnar and winter riding, throw on the pimp. The industry wheels weigh 1750 grams, not sure if that is good or not, but i rock I9s on everything else and love them, so why not this. (and the trade plus cash helped a little bit.
)
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68/73 simply means that the sindle length will work with those bb widths. there will be space, but the cones and little spacers that come with the kit address that, no different than profiles or any other 3 piece crank.
good ya i9's for the dj's will be fine but for park or street i would be a little concerned about durability. 120 eng pts also created more drag which is the only downfall to those hubsTo address the industry 9 situation, i have the rear wheel from the simple i plan to keep, the Freecoaster laced to the pimp with the huge atomlab nipples, i figure that the Industries should survive fine for dirt jumping (ive seen a few set ups) and for street gnar and winter riding, throw on the pimp. The industry wheels weigh 1750 grams, not sure if that is good or not, but i rock I9s on everything else and love them, so why not this. (and the trade plus cash helped a little bit.
1750 complete? what wheel set is it the enduro's?
::::WHY DOES THIS RECIEVE NEG REP?::::
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all mountains, but this set is a left over, which is the old enduros? either way, they are MINT. so it was worth it to me, i can always put them on the banshee or any other 135 bike.
Get intense micro knobbys. TheTruth approves of those tires.
i do plan to, but after i wear out the sb8s
Keeping the cranks, any recommendations on the BB? also need a new front chainring? right now i have 25-11 and its good, very happy, i will be running a cassette wheel that will get a 12 (smallest i can find) now i need a 27 front chainring, recommendations, it only has to be strong, idc about weight.
lastly, what brake should i run, first thought goes to elixers, however, my Code wasnt strong enough, and my saint just barely makes it. (the saint im using is in a set, that can help pay for this bike)
do i
1. sell the front saint only
2. shell out money for a new brake (elixer?)-what do i get?
3. sell both saints, and buy a new brake, take the risk that it will be strong enough.
^ addressing this issue, my "strength" argument comes into play with walltaps and stalls on quarters, tables, banks ect...
I found the animal sprokey balboa has a 27T, but 55 dollars HOLY ISH! Do these sprokets fit with the deity, i have a deity sproket, but never really did anything involving them.
lastly, what brake should i run, first thought goes to elixers, however, my Code wasnt strong enough, and my saint just barely makes it. (the saint im using is in a set, that can help pay for this bike)
do i
1. sell the front saint only
2. shell out money for a new brake (elixer?)-what do i get?
3. sell both saints, and buy a new brake, take the risk that it will be strong enough.
^ addressing this issue, my "strength" argument comes into play with walltaps and stalls on quarters, tables, banks ect...
I found the animal sprokey balboa has a 27T, but 55 dollars HOLY ISH! Do these sprokets fit with the deity, i have a deity sproket, but never really did anything involving them.
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any recommendations on the BB?
they are all the same, all use the same r12 bearing so the performance will be identical only difference is the cones that are simply there for looks. pick any 19mm mid bb kit
lastly, what brake should i run, first thought goes to elixers, however, my Code wasnt strong enough, and my saint just barely makes it. (the saint im using is in a set, that can help pay for this bike)
if you plan on only using 1 brake sell the saint set no use only using 1, how strong of a brake do you need? all you should need to be able to do is slow down and then be able to lock it up for taps ect. an elixr r is good, and the bb7 mech is never bad either since its simple, pretty well maintance free, and dual pad adjustments so you can easily lock it up.
I found the animal sprokey balboa has a 27T, but 55 dollars HOLY ISH! Do these sprokets fit with the deity, i have a deity sproket, but never really did anything involving them.
all you need is a 19mm bore in the sprocket, any sprocket should come in either 22mm or 19mm, so get the 19 in what ever tooth size you want all sprockets perform the same so pick one on looks or what have you
edit: a good cheap option is the eastern madusa lite, i dont think it comes in 27 but its cheap and light
they are all the same, all use the same r12 bearing so the performance will be identical only difference is the cones that are simply there for looks. pick any 19mm mid bb kit
lastly, what brake should i run, first thought goes to elixers, however, my Code wasnt strong enough, and my saint just barely makes it. (the saint im using is in a set, that can help pay for this bike)
if you plan on only using 1 brake sell the saint set no use only using 1, how strong of a brake do you need? all you should need to be able to do is slow down and then be able to lock it up for taps ect. an elixr r is good, and the bb7 mech is never bad either since its simple, pretty well maintance free, and dual pad adjustments so you can easily lock it up.
I found the animal sprokey balboa has a 27T, but 55 dollars HOLY ISH! Do these sprokets fit with the deity, i have a deity sproket, but never really did anything involving them.
all you need is a 19mm bore in the sprocket, any sprocket should come in either 22mm or 19mm, so get the 19 in what ever tooth size you want all sprockets perform the same so pick one on looks or what have you
edit: a good cheap option is the eastern madusa lite, i dont think it comes in 27 but its cheap and light
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do not get the medusa, I've seen way too much snap from pedalling hard..
if you want a light weight sprocket i'd recommend tree splined lite. eliminates the crank attach bolt (saves a couple grams lol) but will also be useful to help get a good chainline since you don't have to keep the sprocket right next to the crank.
Justin's Deity cranks are trashed, to the point where i am going to throw them out. So i plan to buy Profile cranks, (huge rep for great stuff) but do i want the normal cranks or pay double for the light ones. Is the weight worth the money?
normal-http://www.danscomp.com/452553.php?cat=PARTS
light-http://www.danscomp.com/452554.php?cat=PARTS
Also, i usually run 170s, but i had to get 175 for deitys, i see that the light ones are 175 or 180, long cranks better for DJ and street?
normal-http://www.danscomp.com/452553.php?cat=PARTS
light-http://www.danscomp.com/452554.php?cat=PARTS
Also, i usually run 170s, but i had to get 175 for deitys, i see that the light ones are 175 or 180, long cranks better for DJ and street?
Not to thread jack... but have you ever tried 165 cranks? They are harder top find for steel cranks, I have been curious as to how they feel as opposed to the standard 170 or 175
ridden 165 (have them on my demo 9) they are ok, i personally think they feel small, but i have ridden only 170s for the 5 years before that, i will probably get 170s again, should i spend the extra to save the weight?
If money is no object.. go for it. Lighter bike is a lighter bike.