Knob vomit from Maxxis
- Thread starter Verskis
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I got two brand new ones at my house. They came on some wheels I just bought. 20 bucks a pop?
20 AMERICAN bucks a pop?
I'll read all the fancy codes when I get home and tell you what they are.
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You sayin' I don't know how to corner??? Because you're probably right!I got two brand new ones at my house. They came on some wheels I just bought. 20 bucks a pop?
20 AMERICAN bucks a pop?
I'll read all the fancy codes when I get home and tell you what they are.
Bring 'em to Whizzler. I'll take 'em.
Let them eat 42a durometer!
The thing is, maxxis have a pretty strong range at the moment. The exception, exo and dual ply casings cover most uses. Their st, 60a and a couple of 3c compounds cover most uses. The crossmark, ardent race, minion dhf and dhr, high roller 2, beaver, shorty and wet scream cover just about every terrain type.
Some specific tyres gain a little in some areas - schwalbe has them beat for rolling speed for instance. Some of the tyres could come in other casing types - a beaver (or shorty) in a mid weight option for example, or a dual ply ardent race.
They make other tyres, but I'd happily cull the range, and I'd be hard pressed to see a way to add a new pattern to the mix. It could be done, but I look at the knob vomit and wonder why? What does that add that can't be achieved with one of their current tyres? Anyway, I still don't "get" the ikon, and plenty of people rave about it....
Some specific tyres gain a little in some areas - schwalbe has them beat for rolling speed for instance. Some of the tyres could come in other casing types - a beaver (or shorty) in a mid weight option for example, or a dual ply ardent race.
They make other tyres, but I'd happily cull the range, and I'd be hard pressed to see a way to add a new pattern to the mix. It could be done, but I look at the knob vomit and wonder why? What does that add that can't be achieved with one of their current tyres? Anyway, I still don't "get" the ikon, and plenty of people rave about it....
Jeez you guys are really making me question myself... I have a Hans derp on the back of my main trail bike, and I hate to admit it around here but I don't think it's a bad tire. Although the side knobs are about to start ripping off after about a month of riding.
It definitely doesn't look like a good tread pattern, but by the looks of mine I don't use the center knobs much.
Glad I got that dirty little secret off my chest
It definitely doesn't look like a good tread pattern, but by the looks of mine I don't use the center knobs much.
Glad I got that dirty little secret off my chest
I just obtained a Hans Dampf on a second hand trail bike I purchased. Good lord it is a truly dreadful front tyre, so vague, no feedback at all and then all of a sudden BAM you're understeering and it's sliding sideways and then you overcorrect into a massive, hilarious two wheel drift until you end up facing back up the fall line cackling like a maniac but totally gripped.
Can you cut them to make them not suck? The price of tyres is highway robbery here in Canada and it would be a shame to just toss out a basically brand new tyre. I'm thinking of at least cutting out all of the outer row of 'face-every-which-way' intermediate knobs so there's at least something of a channel between the centre and cornering knobs.
At the very least I surely can't make them any worse. Anyone else got suggestions?
Can you cut them to make them not suck? The price of tyres is highway robbery here in Canada and it would be a shame to just toss out a basically brand new tyre. I'm thinking of at least cutting out all of the outer row of 'face-every-which-way' intermediate knobs so there's at least something of a channel between the centre and cornering knobs.
At the very least I surely can't make them any worse. Anyone else got suggestions?
Slow crawling, slabs etc the stock pattern works well, mild trail-riding they are ok, but as soon as the speed picks up they get vague and tend to wash. And yes you can cut them, that is what I did. Got the pattern from what was done to StevieSmiths at one of the WC last year. Will post up a picture of the cuts tomorrow (i be heading to bed now)
You cut out a grouping of 4 knobs, this opens up a channel between the side and centre knobs. Problem now is that the outside knobs are not that sturdy and are easily over-ridden. You need to finesse the tires into a corner, if you toss them in hard, then the side knobs just fold.
For regular trail riding however they will take away that vague feeling you get when the speed starts to pick up. Surprisingly they loose far less ability on slabs compared to how much they pickup for trails being cut. If you are smooth then you will pick up quite a bit of speed before over-riding the tires again and folding the side-blocks. They do warn you before they let go, so not quite as evil as possible.
You cut out a grouping of 4 knobs, this opens up a channel between the side and centre knobs. Problem now is that the outside knobs are not that sturdy and are easily over-ridden. You need to finesse the tires into a corner, if you toss them in hard, then the side knobs just fold.
For regular trail riding however they will take away that vague feeling you get when the speed starts to pick up. Surprisingly they loose far less ability on slabs compared to how much they pickup for trails being cut. If you are smooth then you will pick up quite a bit of speed before over-riding the tires again and folding the side-blocks. They do warn you before they let go, so not quite as evil as possible.
Thanks in advance mykel, look forward to seeing your pics!
It may work better turned inside out. If it has some grippy texture on the inside to keep the tube from slipping, it will likely be offer more predictable performance.
I didn't realize there were so many Tire Divas on RM.
You must be new here
It's been like this since the beginning... back to the days of "will a comp 32 2.8 fit my boxxer" to which combo to run/cut: comp 32/24/16/mud.
The cycle continues
You just reminded me of the time I spent 2 hours the night before a collegiate DH race cutting two Michey 24's. First and last time I cut tires.You must be new here
It's been like this since the beginning... back to the days of "will a comp 32 2.8 fit my boxxer" to which combo to run/cut: comp 32/24/16/mud.
The cycle continues
I can understand people fairly new to the sport buying tires with dysfunctional tread designs. But anyone who lived through panaracer fires, kenda nevegals, and Michelin's fvcked up directional arrows (and how their tires suddenly worked when flipped) has no excuse for buying some of the shlt tread design ideas getting rehashed right now. What's even worse is some of the people designing the things who have been around long enough that they should very much know better. (Hi wtb!)
And the tire that this thread is based on......seeing the company it's sitting in, I guess that's a dh tire. A dh tire that looks like it will have good pedaling traction and nothing else. A DOWNHILL tire who's only strength is pedaling. ...............agghhh........must keep aneurysm in check............
And the tire that this thread is based on......seeing the company it's sitting in, I guess that's a dh tire. A dh tire that looks like it will have good pedaling traction and nothing else. A DOWNHILL tire who's only strength is pedaling. ...............agghhh........must keep aneurysm in check............
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I am running Michelin wildrock'r 2 tires. Can you guys describe what it is like to have tires that slip and slide and not hold on to corners like a rabid pit bull? I have forgotten the feeling...
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Mine showed up. Holy shlt those things are heavy. I bet you could get away with one on the front of a dh bike without killing it.
Just to prove my point about tire companies no knowing what they're doing just watch. No one will buy that tire just because of the weight and they'll quit making it. Rather than realize that tread is the best thing they've ever made and make it in every single casing and size option.
But my god those things are beautiful. I pulled them out of the box and heard harps.
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I agree. The truth is those tires are DH tires with a kevlar bead. I told myself that no matter what I was making myself at least leave that front tire on for all conditions. I have a fast rolling tire on the back right now paired with it, and it seems quite ridiculous so far.
Well, given your result at Rocky Knob last weekend, perhaps you should try that new Maxxis offering. It does have directional pedaling paddles afterall 
But for serious, I'm very excited to hear about the arrival of the Wildrockr 2. I'm heading up to Pisgah this weekend, and can't wait to pinch flat on...whatever trail I ride out there.
But for serious, I'm very excited to hear about the arrival of the Wildrockr 2. I'm heading up to Pisgah this weekend, and can't wait to pinch flat on...whatever trail I ride out there.
I ran HansDampf on the front (27.5) and thought 2 things made it feel vague.
1.) I thought it actually was too grippy to the point it never had a "drift point".
2.) The side knobs didn't have that "cutting into the dirt" feeling.
I took it off and went Maxxis HRII (60 Duro). Seems to roll better, cut into the dirt better and has that "drift point" to give some feedback. It's also a cheaper tire and will last 3x times longer.
1.) I thought it actually was too grippy to the point it never had a "drift point".
2.) The side knobs didn't have that "cutting into the dirt" feeling.
I took it off and went Maxxis HRII (60 Duro). Seems to roll better, cut into the dirt better and has that "drift point" to give some feedback. It's also a cheaper tire and will last 3x times longer.
Nothing like losing your legs and your contact lenses in one run. At least my tires were gripping all the $hit I could not see!Well, given your result at Rocky Knob last weekend, perhaps you should try that new Maxxis offering. It does have directional pedaling paddles afterall
But for serious, I'm very excited to hear about the arrival of the Wildrockr 2. I'm heading up to Pisgah this weekend, and can't wait to pinch flat on...whatever trail I ride out there.
Anyone have time on the Mavic Crossmax Charge on a trail bike? what about the G5? is there a "trail" version of those?
I REALLY want a g5 in a trail version..... REALLY WANT!
A buddy of mine who's a trek dealer said they're coming........he said that last year though.
Still waiting as well........ And a lighter casing version of that G-semislickwhatever.
Still waiting as well........ And a lighter casing version of that G-semislickwhatever.
or grab a Minion EXO today ... same tire.
Not even.
I have a DHR II 2.3 in the back paired with a Wildgrip'r 2 in the front. The DHR is so over matched when leaned over it's ridiculous.
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Do tell...
Those G5s are probably the best ass dragging stay in control braking tire I've ever ridden. They're insane. And in corners you don't climb up onto the knobs and start drifting as soon as the minions. On anything softish where you're getting good penetration into the dirt and not riding on top of packed stuff, the G5 is like a different beast.
They do roll slower though since there's way less flat top surface area on the centers.
Hey John: different tire.........and you're nuts
They do roll slower though since there's way less flat top surface area on the centers.
Hey John: different tire.........and you're nuts
Sounds interesting. Guess looks are deceiving.
Different tread, same casing though, which I think is the highlight of the advanced reinforced series. The DHR II (3c EXO) side knobs just can't keep up with the WG for me on anything but dry hard pack. As soon as it get's loose the tail end starts wagging much to easily. The DHR brakes a lot better, but the side knobs on the WG are superior on my terrain. I'd like a tire using the WG side knobs and the WR middle knobs.Hey John: different tire.........and you're nuts
I don't know what you see but that tire looked badass from the first time I saw it.
There's a lot more space on that centerline to let the braking edges get to dirt. Minions (assuming you're talking DHFs here) just aren't that open. Neither are the sideknobs for that matter.
I think the 2.3 versions get a little crowded. That's what I rode at the end of the season last year on my trail bike. It's already kind of a crowded design with the centers poking over too far. Like the 2.4s though, they are way better cut.
You're riding in Sierra dust though right? They wouldn't be my first choice up there, for East Bay/Marin riding I find them ideal.
What 2.4s? As far as I know there is no 2.4 WildGrip'r 2.
I'm talking about the dhr2
AH
Still 2.3 only if you want 26" EXO Tubeless. Bastards.
Still 2.3 only if you want 26" EXO Tubeless. Bastards.
Nah. I ran two 2.4 EXOs tubeless for a whole season.
They don't need a "TR" on the side to work well tubeless.
They don't need a "TR" on the side to work well tubeless.
you guys are liking the dhr2's in the front?? I never paid them much attention..i tried a og dhr on the rear back in the day before I stopped riding and I didnt care for it..I saw on the maxxis vid from the first world cup that they were running the 2s on the front but I wasnt sure if it was just for the rolling resistance or what
Rumor has it that the highroller, minion and I believe the mobster were developed by kirkaldie and bailey when they were living in santa barbara..supposedly they were literally designed for our local trails which is allot of rock and loose over hardpack which would explain the tighter spacing and why they work so well here..
And as far as the original topic of discussion Id imagine that tire is going to be a new trailbike offering that was on hand due to the pedaly nature of the first two world cups...id bet it works pretty well on the rear in hardpack...ive found as long as you have enough knobs touching the ground at once you cant really go wrong
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The original DHRs are pieces of crap. I really don't know why anyone would keep buying those. People used to run them on the front because they were the only tubeless dh tire they made for a while......and you could survive on them with sticky rubber.
I like the DHR2 if the center knobs are narrowed up. Not so much in stock configuration.
Colin bailey definitely did the first gen minion designs. They used to have his name on them. I don't know if someone shows those guys a choice of 3 and they pick one or if they really do design them. If so, I have to come to grips with the fact that brian lopes designs good tread layouts. I'm not sure I'm ready to do that.
I like the DHR2 if the center knobs are narrowed up. Not so much in stock configuration.
Colin bailey definitely did the first gen minion designs. They used to have his name on them. I don't know if someone shows those guys a choice of 3 and they pick one or if they really do design them. If so, I have to come to grips with the fact that brian lopes designs good tread layouts. I'm not sure I'm ready to do that.
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