If you find significant play in the rear end of a used linkage bike, take $100 off the price. $80 for a full bearing kit, plus $20 for the pain in the ass to install them.agreed, if you're looking at used linkage bikes, be sure to check for play as a sign of bearing/bushing wear.
all mx bikes single pivots....so when is the DW-link MX bike coming out???
i still have my suspension clickers at stock...just need to measure sag. how come they emphasize rear wheel sag, but not front fork sag when it comes to dirtbike? and they always measure sag by measuring the distance from the rear axle to any user-defined point on the rear fender area, how is that accurate??? or consistent???
i've always just done eye-to-eye, provided i know the stroke.
On a link-less bike it's easy to measure sag with the i2i measurement, but I don't think you can get quite the resolution that's necessary when 2mm at the rear wheel makes a noticeable difference. You'd be measuring less than a mm of difference at the shock. On a linkage bike you just don't have the access to measure shock i2i.
A sag measuring tool helps for the rear end a lot. Taking the measurement a few times works too. Try setting into the bikes travel and just seeing where it stops. Try bouncing around and seeing where it stops. If you get particular, bounce around on the bike and see if the measurements are different when you let it rise to its sag point and if you let it fall to its sag point. An average of all these numbers will be your true reading. Same goes for the mtb really. Just depends how much time you (or your obligated friend) can spend on it.
The way it's consistent is you just make a mark in the rear fender to always use. While I won't say it's the most accurate way to measure, it can at least be consistent.