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Lacing up a New Wheel

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,652
AK
The biggest step for me with modern rims is to install a tube+tire then do final truing. I get a massive drop in tension when I do that and then I account for it and wheel is solid thereafter, no adjustments necessary.
 

Carraig042

me 1st
Apr 5, 2011
732
353
East Tennessee
The biggest step for me with modern rims is to install a tube+tire then do final truing. I get a massive drop in tension when I do that and then I account for it and wheel is solid thereafter, no adjustments necessary.
That is a great recommendation, I was wondering about that. Do you get in a easy ride with the tube in tire before the final touches?
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,652
AK
That is a great recommendation, I was wondering about that. Do you get in a easy ride with the tube in tire before the final touches?
No, haven’t found that necessary, but I do find the loss of tension so dramatic I wouldn’t feel safe riding it anyway.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
That's an aluminum rim, yeah?

Since wheelbuilding peeps are here I'll ask--is grease (of whatever/any kind) bad for carbon rims at the nipple interface?
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,652
AK
I am going to have to buy a 29er tube, I have not bought one since the switch from 27.5 haha!
Not if you have a 27.5 tube, that will work just fine. Just stretch it around and make sure it isn't pinched.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,652
AK
That's an aluminum rim, yeah?

Since wheelbuilding peeps are here I'll ask--is grease (of whatever/any kind) bad for carbon rims at the nipple interface?
Almost any kind is good, anti-seize is good, linseed oil is good (but dries too fast for me sometimes), etc. "Spoke prep" dries to fast for me and do not use lock-tite shit, you want to be able to turn these in the future if needed. I do a little dab of anti-seize or grease on the nipple head so it will rotate easily in the rim (and get a little more protection) and then on the nipple/threads interface with the spoke.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
Yeah I'm a big fan of something slidey between rim and nipple. I just worried about putting anything on the alien carbon surface, whereas brass-on-aluminum is nothing new.

Maybe I'll do carbon for my next rims. Hmmm.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,434
20,233
Sleazattle
That's an aluminum rim, yeah?

Since wheelbuilding peeps are here I'll ask--is grease (of whatever/any kind) bad for carbon rims at the nipple interface?
I have become a fan of using washers for carbon rims. A dab of light oil between the nipple and washer doesn't hurt.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,652
AK
Yeah I'm a big fan of something slidey between rim and nipple. I just worried about putting anything on the alien carbon surface, whereas brass-on-aluminum is nothing new.

Maybe I'll do carbon for my next rims. Hmmm.
Well, don't use DEgreaser, but I've never heard of anyone having problems...
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
Just me being over-cautious, but also not wanting to end up with a rim splitting and then being the butt of the internet YOU DID WHAT WHEN YOU BUILT YOUR CARBON RIMZ YOU IDIOT AHAHAHAHAHA YOU DIDN'T USE THE $1200/oz PROPER CARBON GREASE AND DISSOLVED YOUR RIM AND DIED
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,434
20,233
Sleazattle
Just me being over-cautious, but also not wanting to end up with a rim splitting and then being the butt of the internet YOU DID WHAT WHEN YOU BUILT YOUR CARBON RIMZ YOU IDIOT AHAHAHAHAHA YOU DIDN'T USE THE $1200/oz PROPER CARBON GREASE AND DISSOLVED YOUR RIM AND DIED

Carbon/epoxy composite is pretty resistant to most chemicals, just make sure to apply sufficient sunblock. Its conductive nature does make things more prone to electrolytic corrosion. If you use brass nipples you will be fine. I had major issues with alloy nipples on my first set of carbon wheels and replaced them all with brass. Have had zero issues with my second set that used alloy nipples with washers. Very limited sample size so YMMV.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
Yeah, this is an aluminum rim. If this will prove to be pretty good on the trail, that may make me want to do my own wheels in the future.
also, congrats...riding wheels you've built yourself is a cool feeling, for me anyhow. Done a few sets over the years and it still always feels like a bit of an achievement rather than just routine maintenance.
 

Carraig042

me 1st
Apr 5, 2011
732
353
East Tennessee
also, congrats...riding wheels you've built yourself is a cool feeling, for me anyhow. Done a few sets over the years and it still always feels like a bit of an achievement rather than just routine maintenance.
I appreciate that. Today is my first ride on the new rim. Going to run a tube in tire before filling with sealant to make is less of a mess to check everything out after this ride.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
I'm dreading trying to lace up my own straight-pull hubs next time they need a rim, though.

Not the actual lacing, I guess, since that's supposed to be super-easy, but 1) computing spoke length and 2) keeping non-bladed spokes from rotating during tensioning. Guessing a set of small channel-locks or even cheap visegrips with rubber of some sort applied to the jaws might work OK for #2, or there's an $85 tool supposed to take care of that problem.
 

6thElement

Schrodinger's Immigrant
Jul 29, 2008
15,963
13,216
I'm dreading trying to lace up my own straight-pull hubs next time they need a rim, though.

Not the actual lacing, I guess, since that's supposed to be super-easy, but 1) computing spoke length and 2) keeping non-bladed spokes from rotating during tensioning. Guessing a set of small channel-locks or even cheap visegrips with rubber of some sort applied to the jaws might work OK for #2, or there's an $85 tool supposed to take care of that problem.
It might be Sapim, but I have a tool to hold bladed spokes straight.

It was probably only $50 :p
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
Well yeah but I'm not qualified for bladed spokes...that's too fancy for me...

Course a fancy tool to hold them straight seems even sillier than one for round. They're flat...can't you just use a solid piece of metal with a slot in it? Or a $1.50 mini adjustable wrench?
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,434
20,233
Sleazattle
Well yeah but I'm not qualified for bladed spokes...that's too fancy for me...

Course a fancy tool to hold them straight seems even sillier than one for round. They're flat...can't you just use a solid piece of metal with a slot in it? Or a $1.50 mini adjustable wrench?
I would think a dab of loctite on the spoke head would help prevent it from rotating during the build.
 

MikeD

Leader and Demogogue of the Ridemonkey Satinists
Oct 26, 2001
11,689
1,734
chez moi
Hm. I didn't think it'd be that strong outside of a threaded interface...

JB Weld perhaps!
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,434
20,233
Sleazattle
Hm. I didn't think it'd be that strong outside of a threaded interface...

JB Weld perhaps!
You just need more friction at the spoke head than you have at the nipple. Antisieze on the threads and loctite on the head and you should be good to go. Actually the tapered countersink shape of the head should wedge good enough to not be a problem.