[stumpjump]

Ok so this isn't your standard seal leak so read on. I have a leak coming from under the compression knob something of the tune of about 1ml a day or so. Im not sure quite where the leak is coming from but I am wondering how to fix it. Have any of you guys taken apart the motion control damper? Im going to order the damper service kit but I want to make sure I have the right thing before I spend the money.

And if I am wrong on this please correct me. Bonus point if you provide the BTI part num of whatever I need.

 

[LOOnatic]

I dont think the internal oring you need comes in the damper kit. The kit includes the orings that go between the damper and the stantion thus you will still have a leaking knob.
RS will just tell you to replace the damper b\c of 1 little o ring under the knob.

 

[profro]

There is a U-seal in there that sometimes gets blown out of position. You can pull the damper a part and reseat the seal fixing the problem.

Otherwise it maybe a nicked o-ring in the assembly. You can pull it apart and replace the o-rings. Just find a good selection of o-rings and find the ones you need.

 

[stumpjump]

is it possible to get ahold of the o-ring somewhere other than RS. I really dont feel like spending $140 for essentially an o-ring.

 

[profro]

Yes. Online try mcMasterCar or just go to a rubber/gasket parts house. Most mid sized cities have at least one.

 

[drkenan]

Many auto parts stores have a nice selection of o-rings.

 

[LOOnatic]

Yeah profro is telling you to pull apart the damper, find the damaged or unseated o-ring and go match it up somewhere. Autozone has a big selction in a special case behind the parts counter. With a little leg work you can fix your problem for less than $1.
Might be a good time to change the oil and lube the seals/bushings.

 

[big-ted]

Send it to Sram. It's a well known problem and will be fixed FOC.

 

[j-posch]

I just fixed mine. It is an o-ring, but not in the seal kit and not your regular type. It's a circular seal but with a square profile, if that makes sense? Just take the cap off and you will probably see it creased. Instructions here http://www.rotorburn.com/forums/showthread.php?139943-boxxer-compression-adjuster&p=1519385&viewfull=1

 

[Bikael Molton]

If this is an 06-09 MoCo damper, that is a very common problem. I had it on 2 of 2 RS MoCo forks that I own(ed). In my case, they were resolved by RS doing a free replacement of entire damper via LBS.

 

[stumpjump]

I plan on taking it apart tomorrow to see whats going on. Im pretty sure its just the seal, which if RS wont fix (and I am sure they wont seeing as its a 2006) I will possibly be getting the new avy damper.

 

[skatetokil]

Might be surprised about SRAM. They have stepped up for me in the past, particularly with "known issues." The offer of rebuild for 5.10 shoes still stands btw. I get back from Brussels tomorrow and I plan to shred my trails this weekend weather permitting.

 

[stumpjump]

Ok so I took the damper apart as mucha s I could last night and I've come to a point where I am not sure how to access the suspected o-ring thats leaking. I took the bottom cap off the damper assembly to where the piston was in accessible but it does seem to be possible to take it out. I saw a small pin that seems to hold the piston but I have no idea how to remove it. Im putting a picture up of where the leak is coming from. Do any of you have a diagram or a link to how to completely take the damper apart. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[profro]

Take the damper out of the fork with a 24mm socket or wrench. Take off the Gate adjuster. Take the set screw off the bottom of the assembly and remove the Gate assembly. Use a deep-well socket (can't remember the size, 10mm I think) and take out the high speed stack which is up inside the cartridge. Then unscrew the plastic housing from the top cap. This is reverse threads. when you pull it apart you will get access to the area that is causing the leak. Either the U-seal which is probably just out of place or a small nicked o-ring under the Gate adjuster knob.

You can fix this yourself in a matter of minutes or you can be very American and just send it back to SRAM. Now your bike is without a fork temporarily and will be perfect for hanging clothes on.

Do a search for Boxxer. There is a really good thread on here that details this fix.

Found it.

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showthread.php?t=166577&highlight=boxxer+mod

 

[boogenman]

I had the same problem last year with my 2006, I did the American thing and just replaced the entire MOCO unit.

 

[stumpjump]

I will be un-american this weekend and take apart the whole thing. If that does not work I will then do the american thing. Id much rather spend $4 than $140. My only question is if I have to remove that pin that seems to keep the damper rod in place of when I unbolt that bottom part with the deep socket if that will just make it all drop out and then reverse unscrew that top part. If I had $140 Id go to the strip club instead.

 

[bullcrew]

I will be un-american this weekend and take apart the whole thing. If that does not work I will then do the american thing. Id much rather spend $4 than $140. My only question is if I have to remove that pin that seems to keep the damper rod in place of when I unbolt that bottom part with the deep socket if that will just make it all drop out and then reverse unscrew that top part. If I had $140 Id go to the strip club instead.

If the $4 fix doesnt work put it together ride it leaking a bit and save up for the avy cartridge.... For the cost its best bang for the buck. Hell it feels better than my 2010 wc did or my fox 40 etc.... Aside of my chasis being stiffer on a 35mm boxxer the performance and feel will be the same as its the same cartridge and it is amazing...

So my vote says save up do the cartridge and when the chasis claps out in a few years pull the cartridge buy some dudes leaking and blown boxxer race and slap this in it... A couple hundred bucks and away you go again or buy someones blown 2010 race for CHEAP (later down the road) and the adapter kit then swap the cartridge to it... From where you are starting its the mostt cost effective and the best possible upgrade period... Hell its an upgrade even over the new forks....