Light DH riders & light components…

Discussion in 'Downhill & Freeride' started by saruti, Dec 31, 2007.

  1. saruti

    saruti Turbo Monkey

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    I’m around 175lbs\70k myself.
    Do you guys\girls using lighter components?
    All the components for DH\FR are overbuilt (I think)
    Anyone here using (without problems) lighter comp for his bike?

    What do you think for example about these rims?
    http://wtb.com/products/wheels/rims/allmountain/speeddiscallmtn/

    Any other suggestions for lighter yet strong comps?
     

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  2. Eren

    Eren Turbo Monkey

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    that rim isnt too wide.

    lite yet strong is mavic 721 and dt 5.1
     
  3. cycleryshop

    cycleryshop Chimp

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    you aren't that light I wouldn't do it
     
  4. pain

    pain Monkey

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    light is like 130 pounds
     
  5. Matchew

    Matchew Monkey

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    I weigh around 150 pounds and used sun singletracks for a few seasons. I only wrecked one in a hard crash but as long as you are smooth and true/tension them frequently they'll be alright.

    I'm currently running 729's but switching to 721's converted to tubeless for next season.
     
  6. LMC

    LMC Monkey

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    that may be a typo.. 70kg is 154 lbs
     
  7. mattmatt86

    mattmatt86 Turbo Monkey

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    Lite, Strong, Cheap.

    Pick two.
     
  8. nh dude

    nh dude Monkey

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    bontrager wisdom
     
  9. FrontRangeDH

    FrontRangeDH Monkey

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    Truvativ Stylo cranks are pretty good for light dh racers
     
  10. WBC

    WBC Monkey

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    I'm a hard chargin 235 and I can't break 721s.
     
  11. norbar

    norbar Turbo Monkey

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    DT's are as far from strong as possible. I'm 62kg's and I've killed them on light riding on a-line type trail. No thx.
     
  12. Hougham

    Hougham Monkey

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    I would tend not to recommend them just due to the fact we tend to get the majority of the Truvativ external BB crank sets returned in the end. There seems to be a problem that if then get a big shock you can never get them tight again. Or even if they have just worked there way loose they never seem to be right again. I would tend to stick with Shimano or FSA for external BB. Or there are some good ISIS BBs out there these days and then you can get the likes of Middleburn cranks that is very strong and light.
     
  13. saruti

    saruti Turbo Monkey

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    What about the "hope pro 2 hubs"?
    Are there any good for DH?
    (Qr20 front & 150x12 rear)

    What about nipples and spokes? What is light and strong?
    And cassettes? (Ultegra maybe?)
     
  14. nvd

    nvd Monkey

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    You must not be trying to hard. I come in at 135 and gaurentee I could if I really wanted to. (Although I do think Mavic EX 721s are some of my favorite rims of all time, the EX 823s are pretty sweet too).

    Don't know about that, my old roomate back in Durango completely snapped the arm in half CLIMBING on a single speed. I would never reccomend these for any dh application.

    As mentioned by someone above: strong, light, cheap... pick two!
     
  15. thom9719

    thom9719 Turbo Monkey

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    I am 180 and I run big boy parts, but my girlfriend weighs considerably less and can save weight in a lot of places.

    -all mtn carbon bar, these are narrower and lighter, which work great for a smaller person

    -2.4-2.1 tires. with the right combo, a lighter rider can run a smaller (lighter) tire and not have to worry about pinching.

    - XC/all mtn rims. once again, for a lighter rider, they will be fine.

    -XC clipless pedals, save a little weight, sacrifice very little strength

    a shorter travel frame. my girlfriend is 5'4, she has no need to be on a 9 inch travel DH rig. a good freerid bike fits her very well, and will be more than sufficent. next year she will be on a transition Syren. maybe you should look at a lighter frame as well.

    Kyle,
     
  16. Eren

    Eren Turbo Monkey

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    mine have held up prety damn well.

    even my 2350 are in alrite shape after one season and those are like butter.

    theyve had 10+ whistler days and racing and shuttling
     
  17. norbar

    norbar Turbo Monkey

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    Your the first positive opinion I also see about them. Maybe I don't ride as light as I think but still I'm pretty pissed about trowing to trash sth I bought a week before.
     
  18. nvd

    nvd Monkey

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    At 135lbs, I think the Industry 9 wheelset with Mavic 721s would be a killer race wheelset. Emphasis on "race set" I doubt I'd run this setup for general thrashing. The Deemax are definately legit too. I've never run any of the dt rims, I think they are too soft, but the hubs are great.

    I have seen my bro "barrel roll" with the same Mavic Crossmax XL wheelset several times this year on his hardtail as well as bail on rolls and failed 360s etc. Same wheelset all year, indoor bmx racing in the winter, WC 4x, dirt jumping, etc... and he weighs in around 180lbs. I thought that was pretty impressive for a superlight wheel to survive though, lots of forces coming at wierd angles. Plus, they are still rolling true.
     
  19. BmxConvert

    BmxConvert Monkey

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    The issue for me with running AM/XC oriented rims is the rim widths are too narrow.

    I've found a happy medium with the Laser Disc FR wheels. The rims is a fair 30mm wide, weighs 570g and has an I-beam down the middle for ridgitity. Never had any denting or warping problems.

    Better yet is that the entire wheelset with 150/12 rear hub weighs in at a nice 2070g(4.5lb)...

    Tomorrow I'm going to be rebuilding my DualDutyFR's with new spokes and nipples for bring the weight down even more. I picked up a couple boxes of AeroLite spokes and some anodized alloy nipples(stock nipples are brass). Swapping spokes and nipples should save me roughly 150g(1/3lb), but I still have a 30mm wide rim with eyelets, a ridgid I-beam, 2 quality hubs with the rear one being the larger 150x12mm and a wheelset that sits in at 1920g(4.2lbs).

    As for cranks, it's getting much harder find a light set of Isis cranks. Extype is great, but spindle length is limiting with those. I did manage to find a 600g ISIS SS crank, the weight includes 2 arms, 1 steel chainring and an aluminum bashring. Running something like the MRP G2, you can remove the bashring and swap the chainring for something aluminum. Should workout alright.

    We'll see. I'll have the bike built with the new components by the end of the week.

    -Kevin
     
  20. RedOne

    RedOne Monkey

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    Mavic lists a new rim on their homepage, the EN521. Same width as the EX721 but only 540g.
     
  21. teaguers

    teaguers Chimp

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    I weigh about 130 and ride a sunday, whats a good light crankset i could put on that would still be reliable, and available in 165mm?
     
  22. meca06

    meca06 Chimp

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    Nicolas Vouilloz run Peille downhill race and win other local race this season with front crossmax XL and XM819 or Ex721 rear. In Peille he's riding a comp32 at front (2.8!).

    I'm 145lbs and in ride in downhill with hope pro2 /Dt Comp / XM 819 and Minion 2.5" tubeless. Zero problem. Stiffer than crossmax XL (same rim but 32 spokes than 24 and larger wide hub on hope than Mavic) and 140grs more heavy.

    julien Camelini ride with Hope pro2/ Dt comp / and mavic 721. if he can run with it and 185 lbs, i can run with 2mm widht less. And the profile of 819 is more stiffer in front impact than the 721.

    I test last season same build with Ex823 but it's too stiff, heavy and the auto-directionnal effect is bad. I return this season to XM819 definitly ;)
     
  23. jvnixon

    jvnixon Turbo Monkey

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    The Crossmax SX rim is not the same rim as the 819.

    Crossmax SX's are 21mm, 819's are 19mm (inner diameter)
     
  24. DirtyMike

    DirtyMike Turbo Fluffer

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    All this talk on wheels brings a good thought to be thrown out there, I weigh 240, I run Sun SIngletrack. 31mm wheel. Three years now, no major problems, caside from a major case on the second ride I had the, but I was able to true it back out and go. With that said, no matter what wheel you get, remember no matter what the part that is going to make the wheel last the longest is the build itself. Its gotta be a good buildn with the proper prestressing and proper final tension before the wheel leaves the stand. Other than that, Its all about whel maintanance, Best let to the guy building your wheels, but if you can learn how yourself, youll save some cash, ad My only advice I will really give out for that, is to remember you dont always have to tighten a spoke to true a wheel.

    There have ben some good suggestion on wheels in here, but dont underrate a wheels ability, having a wheel fail at the worst time is a terrible feeling. In an answer to your original question, there are alot of parts you can run for DH that are lighter, and that you will be very happy with overall, but dont go crazy with wheels. Dont get me wrong light wheels are nice, responsive, quick accel/decel. But dont sacrifice too much strength to save weight. A good way to go if your looking to shave rotational weight, is to go tubeless. Stans works well if you dont want a UST ready wheel, But if you want a really good UST that will hold up, get a mavic 823. Either way, ride and have fun
     
  25. DirtyMike

    DirtyMike Turbo Fluffer

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    I am going to agree, but only on the stylo's. were getting alot of those back, If you are going to run truvatives, get eitehr the Hussefelts or hozzefellers<SP> . But whatever you do, remember these setup different than most any other outboard bb style out there.


    Oh just a reminder, there bb also measure differently than other Isis drive bb's, you need to know what chainline your bike has, unless of coarse your running something with an 83 or 100 mm shell, then you dont get a choice
     
  26. meca06

    meca06 Chimp

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    What else ? i say crossmax XL not SX....XL / 819 = same
     
  27. SamB

    SamB Chimp

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    I'll be looking at getting some lighter rims when funds allow it, I'm only about 110lbs so I'm not too hard on rims. Running 729s at the moment but they're on their way out (rear has about 4 cracks and heaps of dents, mostly caused by the previous owner). Might just get some 721's but if I can go lighter without compromising too much strength I'll get something else.

    What about 819's or 719's? Would they hold up for someone my weight for Dhing? Can you run 2.5" tyres on them without any problems?

    Cheers
     
  28. JRogers

    JRogers talks too much

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    On the topic of the original question, I think that the question of components being overbuilt for a person depends more on their skill, speed and style than it does on weight. I am about 160, ride at expert level and rarely break stuff like rim, cranks, bottom brackets, etc. Guys lighter and slower than me won't run some of the stuff I do. If you break stuff- get something heavier; if you don't- go lighter.
     
  29. DirtDivaDH

    DirtDivaDH Chimp

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    I am a pretty light DH rider (115) and have squared out DT Swiss, and gone thorugh 5 sets of Azonics this season. Yes, I run extremely low pressure (14 is preferred, 19 on super hardpack), but even at my weight I have not found many wheelsets up to the abuse. on my XC bike I have cross max ST's, and I may use those as DH race wheels. I love them. The I 9 are great, if you have $1200 to drop on wheels. I was looking into the Pimplites-anyone know anything about those?
     
  30. ÆX

    ÆX Turbo Monkey

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    for light and strong use hopes SS rear with ONLY 6 cogs @ 9sp spacing. http://forums.mtbr.com/showpost.php?p=3804318&postcount=14
    i have been using 5-6sp rear fro years. its great, light and strong.
    i don't know why more people don't use it.

    14-15, alloy of course.

    don't cinch on the rim, about 600g

    use a kelvar tire. IMO schwable big betty rules!

    also a FSA carbon ISIS crank. use on ebay for liek $100.
    i have used the same pair for 3 years!
     
  31. ÆX

    ÆX Turbo Monkey

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    FSA carbon BMX
     
  32. saruti

    saruti Turbo Monkey

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    how can you fit the fsa bmx carbon crank on a sunday?
    does it need a special bb?
     
  33. -BB-

    -BB- I broke all the rules, but somehow still became mo

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    I just put a set of FSA Gravity Light cranks on my 7point and so far I'm loving them. Nice and light but they also seem pretty strong.
     
  34. Rick205

    Rick205 Monkey

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    The Fsa carbon's are isis drive, so just buy a good 83mm isis bb and your set.

    Middleburns are another similar alternative, how do they compare in weight with each other i dont know.

    Rick
     
  35. ?????

    ????? Turbo Monkey

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    If I weighed 150 or under I think I could get away with a 30lb DH bike.

    Socom w/ air suspension
    819 rims w/ 2.4" single ply tires
    xc/am carbon bars
    xtr cranks
    light xc disc brakes w/ 7" front and 6" rear rotor
    ...just to name a few places that could save serious weight.
     
  36. dhkid

    dhkid Turbo Monkey

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    Socom w/ air suspension - ok
    819 rims w/ 2.4" single ply tires - big no no
    xc/am carbon bars - ok ish but not the best place to save weight
    xtr cranks - no no
    light xc disc brakes w/ 7" front and 6" rear rotor - probably the only one that i would say is legit.

    i weight 125lbs and thats just my opinion.

    819 rims will give you a horrible tire profile, but they are fairly strong. i would never use a single ply tire, the amount of pressure needed to get a solid feel for the tire in corners would make the ride too bouncy. xc bars, not wide enough and no point taking the risk man. xtr cranks, if you hit a rock, its a force that the crank is not designed for. unless you are willing to change then all the time then its alright.

    the brakes i would, i used to run hope minis for a long time, back when i was around 90lbs up until about two years ago. i would use some juicy ultimates or the new hope minis with out thinking twice about it.

    the few things that i can say i have got away with are, smaller tires, 2.2 michelins are nice!! but that doesn't save much weight, lighter spokes and alu nipples. thats about it.

    i reckon the biggest weight saving for lighter riders would be air sprung suspension and lighter dh frames which are designed around lighter riders.
     
  37. saruti

    saruti Turbo Monkey

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    will my pedals fit the fsa carbon crank?
    dont bmx use other size of pedals?
     
  38. bdamschen

    bdamschen Turbo Monkey

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    I'm ~200 lbs, and I guess would consider myself a smooth rider (rather than plowing? I dunno). On my mini DH/all mountain bike I've been using 819s, single ply 2.35 tires as tubless with sealant, an old swinger 4 way air and stylos for about a year, and riding pretty hard on them.

    I don't usually clip pedals very often so that might make a diff for the cranks, and I have noticed that if I corner reeeal hard I can feel something flex, but so far they have stayed problem free.... knock on wood. The swinger however, has started to leak stuff, but I sort of expected that.

    I had thought about also going for carbon bars, but couldn't find any that were wide enough and I was a little nervous about jumping with carbon bars.
     
  39. Trekrules

    Trekrules Turbo Monkey

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    I'm 1.70m tall,21 years off age and weigthing at 119lbs so i'm realy a ligth DH rider.I ride a Session 10 that weigth's 41.5lbs.888 ATA WC,Formula The Ones,Revox shock 350lbs spring(soon 250lbs) with 40% sag standard some times 45% sag.Im a rider that likes every ride to be super super plush on the suspension feel.I love the plushness off the suspension very motocross feel.What i realy like to have to save extra weigth is carbon handle bars,ligther pedals,mrp carbon bashguard(quite expensive:D ).
     
  40. ÆX

    ÆX Turbo Monkey

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    yes they will fit fine.
    nice bmx stuff is not 1/2, just 1pc steel cranks.