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Light(est) 35mm clamp, 50mm length stem?

Flo33

Turbo Monkey
Mar 3, 2015
2,067
1,306
Styria
@Udi
how goes the syncros stem? Are you still on it? I don't want to run 35mm bars, but if I can find one in 50mm, I could be persuaded to replace my thomson.

I can't talk about saving weight on an easily replaceable part, so let's chat stem alloys again.
Hey Sandwich, I dig my PRO Koryak in 50 mm at 31.8. Stiff and light.
 

Carraig042

me 1st
Apr 5, 2011
732
353
East Tennessee
Been running one of these in 50mm length for about 2 years now.
I've been really happy with it.
http://anvlcomponents.com/Product_Stem-Swage.cfm

But I had a play today with the new Thompson X4 35mm stem, comes in 50/40/32mm lengths , looked and felt pretty damn good, but def more heft than the Swage stem.
I really like the ANVL swage stem compared to many out there. I believe this is the one I will get next. I saw they recently showed a new version of the stem. Not sure if it is just graphics or minor changes? No new pictures on their site.

-Brett
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
6,749
5,642
I know Udi has a stem but this met a couple of the criteria, 134g, four bolt- https://shop.acros.de/cockpit/mtb-vorbau/5573/acros-popular-gothic-stem?number=35.02.000-50

I've had a couple of open backed stems and I was just too fat for them, the ones I had twisted like crazy under power. The Straitline one developed some weird lines through the ano where it was twisting so I threw it out, ran a DMR Defy stem for two rides and it was worse than the Straitline, I had another one too but can't remember what it was.
I now have a Race Face Atlas 35/35 and it's decent, it did come loose a couple of times when new, it would only stay tight after the weird little teeth things in the bolt holes wore out. There are no washers under the bolts so they need a bit more torque than most stems I have used in the past. I was hoping that the face plate would have zero gap at the top but it doesn't, the stock pics make it look like the faceplate would sit against the main body which would take a bit of the shear force off the bolts(in my head anyway). Seems odd to do some fancy machining then still having a big dirty gap there.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
@Udi
how goes the syncros stem? Are you still on it? I don't want to run 35mm bars, but if I can find one in 50mm, I could be persuaded to replace my thomson. I can't talk about saving weight on an easily replaceable part, so let's chat stem alloys again.
Yeah, only got around to riding it a bunch lately, it's been great.
In the end it was the only stem which matched my requirements, you can certainly find lighter ones but they seem to compromise somewhere for that. Big thanks to @buckoW for the hookup, but if I had to get one again it'd be the same.

The 35mm version clamps a touch wider than the 31.8mm and looks nicer. I'm running 800mm x 35mm rise SIXC with it. Also thanks to @mtg for explaining the "steerer clamp stiffness/deflection vs. bolt torque : applied torque ratio" thing - I never really considered that properly, but now I know why I prefer stems that don't have huge cutaways around the steerer tube.

RE: alloy, it's forged 2014. 135g in 50mm length, matched the claim. Mine was 130g after Ti bolts:
stem2.jpg


stem1.jpg
 

HardtailHack

used an iron once
Jan 20, 2009
6,749
5,642
I'm usually a function over form kinda guy but there's no way I could fit that to a bike.

I also thought the scale said "Well Hung" as I was scrolling.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist
Mar 14, 2005
4,915
1,200
For a guy who bought a weight-restricted carbon handlebar made by Tune (notorious for making all things that crack) I'd be more worried about future form/function of your face than my stem. :)
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
I hated the 7% rise on the Pivot so I replaced it with a Ritchey WCS Trail. It is pretty good and incredibly stupid at the same time. 2014 forged alloy, 45mm, lightweight, yet the 220deg clamp interface is dumbbb.

 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,656
AK
I hated the 7% rise on the Pivot so I replaced it with a Ritchey WCS Trail. It is pretty good and incredibly stupid at the same time. 2014 forged alloy, 45mm, lightweight, yet the 220deg clamp interface is dumbbb.

I think the 220° interface is pretty good. I have a Ritchey 260 on my XC bike and THAT is dumb. It's dumb because you can't remove the handlebar without rotating it 180 and then pulling it sideways halfway, otherwise you gouge it and it's a big PITA when you are traveling. And don't even get me started on the T20 bolts that it uses that you can't tighen due to the angles. I've found work-arounds for all these things, and the stem is light, but too many sacrifices for it's sub-100g weight. I can't say enough great about the WSC220 though, that's been solid, perfect with my RFX at the short length that I use.
 

StiHacka

Compensating for something
Jan 4, 2013
21,560
12,505
In hell. Welcome!
I think the 220° interface is pretty good. I have a Ritchey 260 on my XC bike and THAT is dumb. It's dumb because you can't remove the handlebar without rotating it 180 and then pulling it sideways halfway, otherwise you gouge it and it's a big PITA when you are traveling.
You can't really install the 220 without pulling it in sideways either, that's what the installation manual says. My handlebar is coated with thick anti-slip stuff over the clamping area and the 220 deg make the installation impossible without scratching the isht out of the bar.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,656
AK
You can't really install the 220 without pulling it in sideways either, that's what the installation manual says. My handlebar is coated with thick anti-slip stuff over the clamping area and the 220 deg make the installation impossible without scratching the isht out of the bar.
Yeah, I don't seem to have that problem with the 220, but the 260 is absolutely a bitch. I also try not to run much rise, so maybe my flatter bars help.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
21,077
5,995
borcester rhymes
You can't really install the 220 without pulling it in sideways either, that's what the installation manual says. My handlebar is coated with thick anti-slip stuff over the clamping area and the 220 deg make the installation impossible without scratching the isht out of the bar.
that's interesting. the ritchey was on my list except no 50mm option. seems like stem mfgs try hard to do weird things to differentiate themselves from one another, regardless of value.
 

Jm_

sled dog's bollocks
Jan 14, 2002
18,995
9,656
AK
Man I like those things. Super excited to see that.

AND THEN TORX. Goddamit.
Don't care that much, EXCEPT the F-ing T20s on my Ritchey WCS C260. Instead of heavier more common T25s, it uses T20s, which not every multi-tool has, so I gotta be careful what I take with that bike because I can be up shit creek if I don't have the damn T20. Nearly every tool has a T25 though so I don't mind that one.
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
7,649
5,562
UK
Is it just the camera angle/shot or does this look really badly designed for a CNC'd part machined to ".002” tolerance"?
35-x-35-Polished turd .jpg


Don't think I'd want this even if my name was Paul
 

HAB

Chelsea from Seattle
Apr 28, 2007
11,580
2,006
Seattle
I think the thing that sorta looks like a gap around the bar clamp (the part you circled) is just a fillet on the corner of the faceplate, which is a good idea to avoid scratching the bar, and should also reduce the stress riser in the edge of the bar.


The thing I'm concerned about is the fact that they pictured it with one of those Whisky bars that are only rated to drops up to 24".
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,964
24,520
media blackout
I think the thing that sorta looks like a gap around the bar clamp (the part you circled) is just a fillet on the corner of the faceplate, which is a good idea to avoid scratching the bar, and should also reduce the stress riser in the edge of the bar.
hard edges are bad for carbon bars, no?
 

Gary

"S" is for "neo-luddite"
Aug 27, 2002
7,649
5,562
UK
I think the thing that sorta looks like a gap around the bar clamp (the part you circled) is just a fillet on the corner of the faceplate, which is a good idea to avoid scratching the bar, and should also reduce the stress riser in the edge of the bar.
if they're using 20 tools and machining to 0.02 you'd think they could make that almost un noticable, eh?

What about the non parallel face plate to body edges I put arrows pointing to?

Looks flexy? ;)