Haha, funny! I think I agree.They'll both snap off at the pedal thread insert equally well.
I ending up ordered the LG1+ from Go-Ride. They have them on sale.
Haha, funny! I think I agree.They'll both snap off at the pedal thread insert equally well.
You can ride a bike. I'll give you that.
Sorry, but your pretty sure XOs will survive anything Saints would, then you don't doubt Saints are stronger.i'm pretty sure anything that would break the X0 would break any other crank, or damage it to the point it cannot be used.
Are Saints stronger? I don't doubt it at all, they weigh almost a pound more. I used the Saints for the last two years before this, they are definately the badass compare-all-to DH crank in terms of durability.
If I was that smooth Id ride XOs too... no doubt.You can ride a bike. I'll give you that.
Yeah I didn't phrase what I was trying to convey too well there. You are sort of correct, not wrong.Sorry, but your pretty sure XOs will survive anything Saints would, then you don't doubt Saints are stronger.
Guessing you were saying(correct me if I'm wrong), you think Saints are stronger, but you think XOs are strong enough.
But would you ride them as long as you did your previous set of Saints?
but your bike will fall apart because of their interface!!Raceface seems a little burlier (steel pedal inserts) and maybe lighter than XO. Raceface's XC cranks are a lot lighter than Sram's.
They still don't appear to use a pinch bolt setup=repeated diss-assembly results in the interface loosening. It's ****, always was, always will be....I should be a Shimano rep.Their website illudes to a new interface. The Atlas says something to the effect of, "Now with blah blah interface." Same blah blah that SixC uses. I really didn't like the system used by some 3 year old Racefaces I worked on.
Update after a season of using the Race Face SIXC cranks:Please let us know if that perpetually-loosening scenario is still happening with the RF.
The day after you post this, my friend on FB posts this:Update after a season of using the Race Face SIXC cranks:
My GG colleague, Will, has been using the current Atlas cranks since May, and I've been on the SIXC for the same time period.
Neither have had any issues at all with loosening, creaking, etc. I think their EXI system solved the issues that people used to complain about.
I didn't put any protection on my carbon cranks, other than the boots that are included, and treated them the same as any other DH crank I've ever had. They've taken a number of hits from bouncing rocks, and had a few pedal spikes grinding into them from shuttle rides. I was concerned about two pedal spike gashes, sent pix to Race Face, and they said not to worry. So, from my experience, durability seems to not be a concern.
Well, I'm 6'3" and I run 175s on my AM bike. I like the extra bit of torque I get with them, and with my height I get a pretty good stance. That being said, 175s might be a bit too long if you're less than 6'.I have a trail bike with an 83mm bb(don't ask). I need a crankset for it and would like to spend no more than $200 with bb no rings, new or near new. I prefer new but saw some great deals on pinkbike on some of the high end cranks mentioned elsewhere in the thread. but I'm 80 to 20 on buying new.
the bike will see real abuse; DH trails, canadian hucking, rock strikes etc. but still needs to pedal up a large hill and for 35 miles at a time sometimes. there are some heavy parts on the bike and I'm trying to save some weight on the rotating stuff. I ran XT's on another bike like it and never bent them. I would run those but can't find a set of the 83mm ones. I am 175lbs and a fairly smooth rider. I am unsure wether to go 170 or 175, I have always ran 175 on a trail bike. someone steer me in the right direction please.
I remember not so long ago everyone was on love with their cranks (rs7's). That's strange.The RS8 from memory was 50G lighter than the 7 and was for XC only. Hot forged cranks, I seem to remember the older RS7's being cold forged which I thought was better a the grain structure is more even or something like that?
You also have to remember they are coming from a company that sells 20mm front hubs with adaptors that have to be held in place when fitting a wheel and made a 9mm axle'd rear hub and the site has said new hub coming soon for about three years.
Everything they make is **** except for the coated chainrings they are amazing and they have finally made their DH rings like everyone else instead of stupidly overbuilt early 2000's designs.
I still have two sets of RS7's in my scrap metal box for recyling.
Yeah me too, chopped away a good amount of aluminium and their still going strong. Developed a cracking noise though but that could be the seating of the bb.Descendant cranks are light, but the lightest crank I would consider using on a DH bike would be the e*thirteen LG1r crank with an XC bb and 2 extra BB spacers to make it wide enough. 760grams, stronger, much stiffer, and more reliable than anything else.
I ran the same set this season, clipping rocks frequently and never had a problem.
same hereI remember not so long ago four guys on Ridemonkey were on love with their cranks (rs7's). That's strange.
Recommend pulling everything off, relube, retorque and you should be good to go.Developed a cracking noise though but that could be the seating of the bb.
I remember not so long ago everyone was on love with their cranks (rs7's). That's strange.
Not sure how much they have changed, but I wanted to do this to mine and couldn't:I was just made aware of the XT/83mm mod the other day. Have a pair of XTR cranks sitting around that I would love to mod to fit my 83mm shell. Has anyone done this?
From here:1st step; Get yourself a set of the Shimano XT M771 or M761 “big gear” cranks. They are different from the regular XT cranks in that they come equipped with a 48/36/26t chainring combo and a slightly longer spindle–thats the important part– to accommodate the extra frame clearance these rings would need. They are available in 165mm, 170mm,175mm,and 180′s too I think. Here’s the tricky part. They’re really hard to find in the States. If you’re a shop rat you may be able to get a set of these cranks through BTI, where I got mine, or S.A.C. (Shimano America Corporation). These cranks were designed as “trekking” or “touring ” cranks and are very popular over in Europe.
Now that you’ve gotten your cranks the modifications begin.
Not me, I hated them from day one, the spline drive is cool but they didn't make chain rings big enough for DH that mounted directly to the spline. Back when I wasn't uber fat I still found the cranks way too flexy under power for my liking, they take the snappiness out of a frame that would normally pedal well.I remember not so long ago everyone was on love with their cranks (rs7's). That's strange.
Still dont get the 'big gear' thing...I guess I could just give them a try, these xtr's are just sitting here on the work bench.Not sure how much they have changed, but I wanted to do this to mine and couldn't:
From here:
http://www.nathanriddle.com/?p=117
I've seen this happen with aluminum cranks too, friend of mine did it with e13. That's not really because it's carbon. That's a bearing/net section failure which isn't shear (carbon's weak point). It's because they didn't put enough material in there, pretty basic stuff. Oh and your friend gets some a + in the badass category to pedal hard enough to tear out the chain ring.The day after you post this, my friend on FB posts this:
That's on his trailbike, not DH.
And I was really considering the SIXC on my new Trail bike and possibly my next DH.