My enduro bolt linkage mount on my frame got stripped, i need a helicoil done. Dave at Center suggested Ti-Cycles to do it, and they're not answering their phone yet. Any suggestions or past experiences with this?
Local shop helicoil?
- Thread starter Skookum
- Start date
If you want to do it yourself - Tacoma screw has everything you need.
Exactly what Five said.Five said:
It's easy. Just get the right bit, drill straight and you got it.
I did a handfull of holes one day.
I did a handfull of holes one day.
Can you just do a tap by hand and not a drill? and how do you get the helicoil in? Throw some lock-tite on it and just roll it in?
If you get the kit - it comes w/ the tapping thing, helicoil and the thing to install the helicoil. Sorry for the lack of technical terms. But yeah, you can tap by hand...obviously not as fast without a drill.
Sweet i think i'll do it that way, sounds like the cheapest route. And dealing with other shops to do it might be more of a run-around since they might get all wound up in liability issues.Five said:
Thanx Yoos guys.
I'm think you really need to drill out the hole before you tap it. I think if you tried to tap it with out boring it out first, it would snap the tap. It would be tryoing to pull out too much material.
drill the hole to a smooth larger size, tap it by hand, install the coil with the tool provided and put put it back together. It will not be as nice as original. the bolt will be harder to get back in. But drop a pile of the lock tight and hope you don't have to deal with it again.
drill the hole to a smooth larger size, tap it by hand, install the coil with the tool provided and put put it back together. It will not be as nice as original. the bolt will be harder to get back in. But drop a pile of the lock tight and hope you don't have to deal with it again.
PM buildyourown.....i can get you his # also.....
Done right wouldn't the Heli-coil be better? Steel threads instead of aluminum....66 said:
I have a rear hub that I have put out of commision because the rotor bolt holes are stripped. (Old AC Air Cooler hub
) I have put off Heli coiling it because it has a (how do you say it?) "blind hole" It doesn't go all the way through so I though tapping and heli-coiling it would be to difficult. It seems to have enough material to take a bigger hole to accept the heli-coil. I guess I am just destroying a hub I haven't used in over 2 years....
....Maybe I should try it?
Stronger yes. But you are screwing into a spring, not solid metal. It feels strange. I don't know how better to describe it.
RhinofromWA said:Done right wouldn't the Heli-coil be better? Steel threads instead of aluminum....
I have a rear hub that I have put out of commision because the rotor bolt holes are stripped. (Old AC Air Cooler hub
I gotcha on the feel bit.66 said:
Will the coil will have a different pitch than the bolt being inserted? Will that feeling change once the bolt has been in and out a few times? It has been a couple years since I looked (cross fingers) at a helicoil kit.
Just get a nut and a longer bolt! Problem solved.
I think the pitch was correct for my situation. I threaded the bolt, the pulled back out and did it again and it felt just as bad.
I did about 6 holes and they all felt the same.
I did about 6 holes and they all felt the same.
RhinofromWA said:
That is a good idea but on many applicatoins that won't work. Like on the holes on a hub for the rotor bolts. If you can't get to the back side, you can't use a nut.
ioscope said:
Mine's not a thru bolt. The enduros have individual bolts for each side of the pivot point.ioscope said:
Went to Tacoma Screw and they'd have to special order a helicoil kit since the threads on the Specialized are unique. That'd cost me around 60 bucks and also void any possibility of crash replacement.
i talked to Dave at Center and he's giving me the option of doing a crash replacement, but i'll still have to pay a good portion of dough.
There's also an option of jimmy rigging a thru bolt (which almost all bikes have), but with only one side having thread i'm still having a hard time wrapping my head around that solution, and thinking that i'll have alot of load on ring and not shank on one side. But this possibly could be the cheapest option.
And i'm a little concerned about the linkages in general on this bike. Is this just the beginning of the end for that linkage, i ride the hell out of that bike...
So i'm pretty boggled, my pal is paying me back (finally) for some dough he owes me, and work is picking up. But i'm still pretty damn broke haha.
As the wheel turns.....
i'm a little boggled on what to do, i'd like to take advantage of the replacement while i still can, but to do this will cost me money i really shouldn't spend.....stay tuned.
neaky:
ok, i've done probably close to 1000 helicoils. Here's the deal. Yes helicoil threads are stronger. They are commonly used on airplane parts in castings that are really soft. We also you them in tooling for bolts that will be spun in and out a lot. ie, so the hack nightshift operators don't F them up.
The kit is expensive, so if you just have to do one hole, it's worth going to a shop. Speedy Reedy has the kit. They aren't a mountain shop at all but the mech rides DH and knows what he's doing. Call and ask for Craig.
Ti Cycles can also help. Ask for Greg.
You must predrill the hole, otherwise you have no hope of getting the tap started right. Getting the coil in is tricky. I've pretty good at it but I'd hate to learn on an expensive part.
66, your holes felt sloppy because hand tapped holes are almost always oversized. Because the coil is basically a spring confined by the hole, it's size will be dictated by the tapped hole's size.
Rhino, You can do blind holes but it's tricky. It's best done with a special tap. (not the kind that comes with the kit.)
Also, the smaller the fastener, the trickier the install. 4mm is pushing it.
The kit is expensive, so if you just have to do one hole, it's worth going to a shop. Speedy Reedy has the kit. They aren't a mountain shop at all but the mech rides DH and knows what he's doing. Call and ask for Craig.
Ti Cycles can also help. Ask for Greg.
You must predrill the hole, otherwise you have no hope of getting the tap started right. Getting the coil in is tricky. I've pretty good at it but I'd hate to learn on an expensive part.
66, your holes felt sloppy because hand tapped holes are almost always oversized. Because the coil is basically a spring confined by the hole, it's size will be dictated by the tapped hole's size.
Rhino, You can do blind holes but it's tricky. It's best done with a special tap. (not the kind that comes with the kit.)
Also, the smaller the fastener, the trickier the install. 4mm is pushing it.
Tim, a good helicoil job is what you need if the piece has the material for it.
It should only cost you about $10.
I just remembered, Stone Way hardware in N Seattle has most sizes of metric helicoils in stock.
It should only cost you about $10.
I just remembered, Stone Way hardware in N Seattle has most sizes of metric helicoils in stock.
Thanx for the info bro, i think i very well might just get a frame replacement at this point.buildyourown said:
My frame has a broken loop (cheese design) for mounting the derauilluer hanger that i broke when i fried my derauilluer with a stick. Oly saved me that day. So that along with with the uncertainty of how worn the rest of the threads might be from getting worn.
The thread that's worn is a pivot point where i never had problems with before. i've lost a pivot bolt before on a ride, and i've also just replaced the bearings. i rode with it loose for a few rides before those got replaced. i had thought i wore thru the shock bushings yet again, the play in the suspension was consistent with that. So i'm sure that is where my problems started. So i'm worried now that i might have to get a new triangle down the road anyways if the stress is distributing the wear damage all over hells half acre on this horst.
So i'm of the thought it might just be smart to start over with a new frame and keep more of an aggressive and educated eye out on my suspension woes next time.
Dude, see if they will crash replace you into a new Enduro trail frame!!!
They're gonna put me in a Red S-works Stumper, i guess i could talk to Dave and have them look into that. but i'd really like to have a 36 for that frame though, and i don't think i'll be able to get one of those for awhile.trailhacker said:
And i'm sure i'd have to pay more for that, since i'd have to buy the new shock where i'm just taking my Float off for this new frame.
Hey btw anyone know what makes an S-works frame any different than a regular Specialized frame other than looks?
S-works stuff used to be made in portland, and always had their fancy metals.... not sure what the story is now.....