[jacksonpt]

Had my bike in at the LBS to have a crank helicoiled. They gave it a once over for me while it was in, and let my know that my headset was loose. How do I fix this?

I took off the stem and removed the fork, wiped off some gunk that had had accumulated over the summer, installed the fork, step and top cap. When I put everything back together, I tried to make sure everything was as snug as possible. It's all back together, and I don't feel any play in the front end... but I did notice that the top cap on the headset (on top of the headtube) does spin if I twist it (not freely, but it's not hard to move). Is this normal? I had the shop install my headset, so I have no experience with them.

How do I go about fixing a loose headset? Do I need a headset press?

 

[johnbryanpeters]

You need to figure out if your frame's head tube is ovalized (has expanded from the pounding you give it when riding hard). If it is, the frame's pretty much toast. I have seen people try to fill in the gap with epoxy or whatever, but I have never seen it work.

J

 

[Mackie]

Had my bike in at the LBS to have a crank helicoiled. They gave it a once over for me while it was in, and let my know that my headset was loose. How do I fix this?

No press needed. Just follow these excellent instructions from Park Tools....

Headset Adjustment- Threadless Type
Threadless headsets work on the same principal as threaded headsets. The bearing races need to press against the bearings. The bolt in the top cap will put pressure on the stem, which presses on washers below the stem, which press on the bearing races, which press against the bearings.

NOTE: The cap and bolt at the top of the stem do not secure the stem onto the steering column. The bolt or bolts on the side of the stem keep the stem from moving once the adjustment is made. The cap is used for bearing adjustment only.
Begin by removing the adjusting bolt in the center of the steering column. Next, remove the top cap. There may be a star-shaped nut or other fittings inside the steering column. The bolt threads into this fitting and pulls on the fork against the headset bearing surfaces, which acts to tighten the adjustment. Note the height of the steering column relative to the stem. It should be about 3mm (1/8") below the level of the stem. The stem needs to press down on the spacers in order to adjust the bearings. If the steering column is level with the top of the stem, another spacer is needed below the stem.
Remove bolt and top cap to inspect steering column. Lubricate adjusting bolt and re-install cap and bolt by hand only. DO NOT TIGHTEN.

Loosen stem bolt(s) that secure stem to the steering column. Lubricate these bolts if they are dry. NOTE: DO NOT LUBRICATE INSIDE STEM OR ON STEERING COLUMN SURFACE.

Wiggle the stem side to side to see that it is loose. If the stem is jammed or rusted frozen to the steering column, no adjustment can be made.

Align stem straight to wheel and gently secure the top bolt. Stop when any resistance is felt.

Tighten stem bolt(s).

Check for play by pulling back and forth on fork. Turn the handlebars in different directions while checking for play. There may be play at this early setting. Use care when grabbing suspension forks, because the legs may have play. Grab upper portion of fork.

To adjust bearings, LOOSEN STEM BOLT(S).

Turn adjusting bolt in center cap only 1/8th turn clockwise.
Secure stem bolts, check for play again.

Repeat adjustments as above until play disappears. Remember to loosen stem bolts before turning adjusting bolt in cap.

Check alignment of stem and tighten stem binder bolts fully.
NOTE: Another test of play is to place the bike on ground and grab the front brake tightly. Press downward on the handlebars and rock the bike forward and back. A knocking sensation may indicate a loose headset. In effect this does the same thing as grabbing and pulling on the fork. However, play in the brake caliper arms may also cause a knocking. Front suspension forks may also have play in the legs, which can cause a knocking. If the adjustment seems very tight, there may be other problems in the headset. Bearing surfaces may be worn out, or the ball bearing retainers may be upside down, or a seal may be improperly aligned. If play always seems present no matter the adjustment, the steering column may be too long for the stem and top cap. Add spacers beneath stem in this case.

 

[tonyhawk]

I've had good luck with the Azonic Headlock. Just be careful not to overtighten it, as you can ruin the headset bearings.

 

[BikeGeek]

You need to figure out if your frame's head tube is ovalized (has expanded from the pounding you give it when riding hard). If it is, the frame's pretty much toast. I have seen people try to fill in the gap with epoxy or whatever, but I have never seen it work.

J

If it's a steel frame and you catch it in time you can save it. Chris King advised me to have my headtube reamed and faced and then measured. I called them back with the inner diameter and they told me to ship the bottom cup back to them. They pressed the bearings into a new, oversized cup, and sent it back to me with my old cup for $12. I've had no problems with the frame since. Liek I said though, I'm sure this all depends on the extent of the damage. I also don't think I'd do this with an aluminium frame.

I've also heard of people with ovalized head tubes upgrading to the King SteelSet. The cup sets into the headtube a full inch as opposed to 1/3 inch of normal cups.

 

[jacksonpt]

Are you all assuming my HT is ovalized? The guy at my LBS (who I ride with and who I trust) said that it was probably just from wear and tear. I mentioned that I had adjusted the stem height/spacers... he said that I probably didn't get everything snugged back down good and tight.

Could it just be a matter of tightening things down, or is there real reason to think the HT is ovalized? It's on my yeti... an ovalized HT would be VERY disappointing.

 

[Wumpus]

I would just tighten everything up. Make sure that the top cap is not coming in contact with the top of the steerer -- that causes quite a bit of the loose headsets. Just put a thin spacer on top of the stem to make sure. Remember that you don't have to crank down on the top cap -- related by one mech, 'about as tight as you would put the cap on a coke bottle.'

Take it for a short ride and if it comes loose again, I would then worry about an ovalized HT.

 

[BikeGeek]

Could it just be a matter of tightening things down, or is there real reason to think the HT is ovalized? It's on my yeti... an ovalized HT would be VERY disappointing.

Sure it could, but if you get things snug to the point where steering is sluggish and you still have play, it could mean something a bit more sinister is going on. How old is the headset? Could it be the bearings are shot? Worn bearings will definitely give you some play up front and could lead to ovalization.

 

[jacksonpt]

How old is the headset? Could it be the bearings are shot?

It's a cane creek S2, installed this summer (mid may). Bike and all parts were new at the time. has seen some use, but nothing more than any of the other good riders were doing.

 

[DHracer1067]

if you do all that stuff above id check out the crown race too. make sure it isnt worn out. that had me stumped for a while when my headset kept coming loose. so i replaced the crown race and its been fine ever since.

 

[-dustin]

the shop said the headset was loose, and didn't bother trying to tighten it? it's a whole 30sec procedure.

 

[jacksonpt]

OK, here's the deal...

I took everthing apart tonight, wiped off a bit of grime, lined everything up, snugged everything down. The top cap on the headset no longer spins, and the bike feels very good (though, I guess I never noticed the looseness before when riding). I don't notice any play, but I'm going to keep a close eye on it after my next ride.

Yes, the shop did say it was loose, but they didn't tighten it. My stem is an ARC stem, which uses a wedge "clamp" rather than a traditional 2 or 4 bolt clamp. You have to loosent a bolt, then wack it with a hammer to release the wedge. If you don't know the hit it with a hammer, you'll never get the wedge loose. My LBS guy said he tried to snug everything down, but couldn't get the stem loose to make sure everything was lined up and set properly. I have no reason not to believe him.