Need some advice. I've got a CaneCreek S8 headset on a Spec. Pitch w/Fox 36 Talas. Steer tub has about 4 spacers above the stem and I think the starnut might be higher than the top of the stem. I hate to think that the bearings could be ovalized or even the headtube. New headset, relatively new frame...can't be. Anyone have any ideas?
Loose Headset
- Thread starter Pale Rider
- Start date
Make sure:
1. Steerer tube minimum 3mm from top of the last spacer, so the topcap won't interfere/hit the steerer tube while you tighten everything up.
2. Spacer ring under the headset-cap oriented correctly?
3. Shim under the headset-cap present?
4. Bearings oriented correctly?
5. Crown race properly installed?
6. Stem loose enough to move along the steerer tube while tightening?
1. Steerer tube minimum 3mm from top of the last spacer, so the topcap won't interfere/hit the steerer tube while you tighten everything up.
2. Spacer ring under the headset-cap oriented correctly?
3. Shim under the headset-cap present?
4. Bearings oriented correctly?
5. Crown race properly installed?
6. Stem loose enough to move along the steerer tube while tightening?
"Loose headset" is a bit vague. What exactly is happening?
Does a headset cup move?
Does the steerer tube wiggle after everthing is tightened?
Pics?
Are you tightening the top cap before you tighten the stem?
Does a headset cup move?
Does the steerer tube wiggle after everthing is tightened?
Pics?
Are you tightening the top cap before you tighten the stem?
If you have a sufficient amount of spacers, that shouldn't be an issue.
That being said, there's no real reason to have that many spacers on top of your stem. Press the star nut down further, cut the steerer.
I'm extremely reluctant to post this problem online but this one has stumped me. I'm very familiar with all the typical pitfalls. Too many spacers...probably, but really can't be the cause. Headset stack has been installed properly, cups pressed in bearings seating properly. The play slowly shows up. It feels like a very small knock. I'll lock up the brakes and rock the bike back n forth and the play slowly shows up. No idea.
How much play are we talking about? Is it only fore/aft play? are you getting it laterally as well? You sure it's not the bushings in your fork?
Is your star fangled nut pressed in straight?
Is your star fangled nut pressed in straight?
I'm having the same problem. Cane Creek semi-integrated headset on a morewood shova. If I grab the front brake and wrap my other hand around the top headset cup I can feel the headset cap sliding back and forth a bit on top of the cup. No idea what's going on.
Mulestars got it. Definitely feels like the top cap or a least the top portion of the stack. But mines not and integrated. Don't feel any lateral play. But I have noticed that it will get worse as the ride progresses. My first thought is that the star nut is being pulled out. Can that even happen? Freaking frustrating.
The star nut can pull out. I had this happen once, but it was noticeable when looking at the nut. The stem should theoretically be able to provide the load on the bearings even if the cap is pulling out, but it would probably gradually loosen. Try replacing it if you can't think of anything else.
I am also having a similar problem that I haven't been able to fix on a fully integrated FSA headset. The top is loose when the headset is adjusted correctly (play goes away only if I make it too tight). I have reaseated the crown race, reinstalled the bearings about 10x and regreased/assembled it all a few times. Nothing seems to make a difference.
I am also having a similar problem that I haven't been able to fix on a fully integrated FSA headset. The top is loose when the headset is adjusted correctly (play goes away only if I make it too tight). I have reaseated the crown race, reinstalled the bearings about 10x and regreased/assembled it all a few times. Nothing seems to make a difference.
My only experience with integrated headsets is on my bmx bike. I went by what a proper set feels like for a normal headset, but got some play as well. I tightened it a bit more, and the problem went away.
Here's what I was just told by a buddy who used to manage a high end road shop and has a lot of experience with integrated headsets:
If it's a new bike keep an eye on it for the first 50 miles or so and tweak as necessary. They are a little more prone to coming loose at first because there's less room for the cups to flex (ie; the whole assembly is stiffer) than on a standard headset, so vibration will
work it loose a little easier at first.
Also, he recommended using a torque wrench if you have one to get the preload correct.
If it's a new bike keep an eye on it for the first 50 miles or so and tweak as necessary. They are a little more prone to coming loose at first because there's less room for the cups to flex (ie; the whole assembly is stiffer) than on a standard headset, so vibration will
work it loose a little easier at first.
Also, he recommended using a torque wrench if you have one to get the preload correct.
Other option... remove starnut and install a headlock.
I just bought a used Ironhorse, that came with a loose headset. My problem, was the the stem was upside down, causing a binding issue between the stem and top triple clamp. No matter how tight the top bolt would be cranked.
Another issue for the not so tech inclined on this issue. You have to completely loosen the top triple tree clamp (if you have dual forks). The center clamps onto the steer tube, and the outside clamps on the fork tubes. Without doing that, the headset will not get any tighter.
Another issue for the not so tech inclined on this issue. You have to completely loosen the top triple tree clamp (if you have dual forks). The center clamps onto the steer tube, and the outside clamps on the fork tubes. Without doing that, the headset will not get any tighter.