[spincrazy]

Yeah, I'm turning it the right way. Well, trying to turn it. I hate to take stuff to the shop where they often get things that are stuck out, but just use more brute force than you do, or are more willing to try because it's not there's.....

I hit it with a little liquid wrench, but no go so far.

 

[Wumpus]

I did the liquid wrench thing. A lot of liquid wrench then let it sit for a couple of hours.

Another trick I heard of but haven't used it to let it sit in the sun or gently heat the BB shell.

 

[spincrazy]

Originally posted by Wumpus
I did the liquid wrench thing. A lot of liquid wrench then let it sit for a couple of hours.

Another trick I heard of but haven't used it to let it sit in the sun or gently heat the BB shell.

hmmm, ok. Thanks. Maybe I'll try something like that. I hate when people over torque stuff....

 

[Matt D]

Your LBS will charge you probably at most 10 bucks and get the job done. And if they screw it up, it's thier responsibility. If you screw it up, you're SOL.

I've seen too many muffed up things done by customers who think they know how to do something or use the wrong tools to recommend trying it yourself. The only thing I'd suggest is soaking it in antifreeze if you can get it to stay in the BB shell and not leak all over.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Antifreeze? Why?

J

 

[Matt D]

Originally posted by johnbryanpeters
Antifreeze? Why?

J

I don't know, all I know is it works for seized seatposts. Some sort of chemical agent works on the corrosion.

 

[spincrazy]

Originally posted by Matt D
Your LBS will charge you probably at most 10 bucks and get the job done. And if they screw it up, it's thier responsibility. If you screw it up, you're SOL.

I've seen too many muffed up things done by customers who think they know how to do something or use the wrong tools to recommend trying it yourself. The only thing I'd suggest is soaking it in antifreeze if you can get it to stay in the BB shell and not leak all over.

Yes, but it's my pride. And, I'm not a tool, I use them. My lbs charged me $8 to turn a BB 1/16th of a turn. My tool was that much too short. (story of my life )

BTW, this BB has been in for MAYBE 6 months on a brand new frame (alum).

 

[Dirty]

what kind of BB?

had issues with an older style bb the other day...
it was the older style that needs a 36mm cone type wrench thingy....main issue was keeping the took in place on the BB shell...
there are certain tools to do that...once you get it stuck down, and youve sprayed it down wtih nutbreaker, or some sort of anti-seizing agent, take a dead-weight hammer to it...
working it both directions, just to get some sort of movement in there...

 

[Dirty]

if youre gonna heat with an open flame be sure to clean anything flammable....
i know thats probly obvious...but just be careful...

 

[spincrazy]

RF SRX splined. I've had plenty of issues with older ones, but this aint.
I've definately whacked it a bit and gone both directions (just ot get movement - nothing) I WILL get it out this weekend though.

Originally posted by Dirty
what kind of BB?

had issues with an older style bb the other day...
it was the older style that needs a 36mm cone type wrench thingy....main issue was keeping the took in place on the BB shell...
there are certain tools to do that...once you get it stuck down, and youve sprayed it down wtih nutbreaker, or some sort of anti-seizing agent, take a dead-weight hammer to it...
working it both directions, just to get some sort of movement in there...

 

[Dirty]

have you locked the removal tool onto the BB?
long cheater bar and a dead weight hammer make a big difference...as long as the tool aint slipping off the BB

 

[Matt D]

There is almost no reason to use a hammer on a bike other than a Huffy, seriously. Getting a pipe for cheater bar is a good idea though, but you shouldn't need a hammer.

There isn't a tool available yet to lock the BB tool onto the splined spindles like you can with the tapered spindles (that I know of).

 

[Dirty]

who needs a tool to lock it on...ive got the BB removal tool that had the ratchet end on it...and you just find a long enough bolt and a washer and thread the bolt into the BB...then the washer/bolt holds the thing in place...the tool is also a 22mm open ended or something....so you can just use that....just gotta get creative
some tools cant accept a cheater bar...like the 36mm open ended i mention...so the hammer is needed to get the neccessary pressure...
granted, if you can fit a cheater bar to the tool, you shouldnt need/use a hammer...
but theres some cases where its a valueable tool that should belong in a bike mechanics tool box...

 

[Matt D]

Originally posted by Dirty
who needs a tool to lock it on...ive got the BB removal tool that had the ratchet end on it...and you just find a long enough bolt and a washer and thread the bolt into the BB...then the washer/bolt holds the thing in place...the tool is also a 22mm open ended or something....so you can just use that....just gotta get creative
some tools cant accept a cheater bar...like the 36mm open ended i mention...so the hammer is needed to get the neccessary pressure...
granted, if you can fit a cheater bar to the tool, you shouldnt need/use a hammer...
but theres some cases where its a valueable tool that should belong in a bike mechanics tool box...

I don't understand your lock on tool for use with a splined BB. I'd like to see a pic of it if you have one b/c I think it would very hard to find a bolt long enough, and I don't think the bold diameter would fit through the bb tool anyway (using the BBT-2).

I'd really like to see it because I've talked to Park about it and they are supposed to have one coming out soon.

And the only reason I can think of to use a 36 mm wrench is on the OLD lockring BBs. Normally on the everything more recent than cartridge BBs you'd use an adjustable wrench.

 

[spincrazy]

It's out. liquid wrench seems to have done the job. a skewer can be put through the bb removal tool to hold the tool in place. A hammer was used on a big ass adjustable wrench. Three big taps and thar she went, finally. I just hate hammering near my frame, one small mis-swing and ...OUCH.

 

[Matt D]

Damn good idea on the skewer! I haven't thought of that, thanks.

 

[Shanks]

Over the course of a summer I probably remouve 40-50 comleatly seized BB's at the store.... Now remember thats just me. We have 5 full time wrenches....

I wouldnt reomend pluging the hole and filling the BB shell with penetrant since your filling the frame too. I would take a heat gun or hardcore hair dryer and heat the shell up. Once its hot, spray lube at the threads and the out side. Do this a few times. Even just the movment of the frame expanding and contracting is enough to loosen the rust's grasp! IF WD40 doesnt seem to work, mix it with some DOT Brake fluid... and use a bolt to hold the tool tight into the cup so you can use all your muscle to turn it.

If Im ever at the point where Im heating, using brake fluid, and have a giant bar on tool I usualy have to call the customer and let them know that for it to come out might wind up damaging the frame.....

Try that trick out.