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Making Boxxers Better?

Wa-Aw

Monkey
Jul 30, 2010
354
0
Philippines
Shinning the turd, yes. But still worth a try! This is a Boxxer Team.

So problem with mine is I'm in between springs. The medium one dives and blows through its travel and the hard one is harsh but feels manageably good.

When I was servicing the fork last time I didn't have any 5wt oil for the damper side so I left it alone. Then I thought of taking about 1/5 of it out and replaceing it with the 15wt oil that I was using for the lowers. I then put the medium spring back in.

Effect now is it's pretty good on high speed stuff but it still dives more than I'd like with the LSC 1 click off from full closed.

Question is, is what I did okay? And is there anything I can do to simulate more LSC without going up a spring level? Put more 15wt into the mix?

Thanks! (
 

Kanye West

220# bag of hacktastic
Aug 31, 2006
3,450
164
Strip the thing ALL the way down. Find a lathe, a dremel/drill with a polishing head, different grit emory cloth 500-2000, some Mothers polish, and some Teflon Silicon lubricant. Start identifying every source of drag within the fork (there are many). If overwhelmed, buy a new fork that moves and has real seals.
 

William42

fork ways
Jul 31, 2007
3,674
289
Question is, is what I did okay? And is there anything I can do to simulate more LSC without going up a spring level? Put more 15wt into the mix?

Thanks! (
It comes with about 1/2 the necessary shims to have a solid working LSC. Double down on them and it works a lot better.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist: “I Brake for Birds”
Mar 14, 2005
4,718
797
As above - they are valved very lightly stock, double all compression shims and you'll have a good starting point. If you have one of the later models with the 2-stage stack, convert it into a normal pyramid one - it is a bit silly to have a 2-stage stack when the HS adjuster just bends them down.

I'd stick to the standard oil weight to simplify servicing later (rather than having to mix oils each time), tune with the shims.

Some guys are running them with dust wipers only for less stiction which seems to work successfully - I'd use new wipers if you go down this route. Fox Green Oil works well for lower lubrication.
 

Sandwich

Pig my fish!
Staff member
May 23, 2002
15,829
938
01776
Strip the thing ALL the way down. Find a lathe, a dremel/drill with a polishing head, different grit emory cloth 500-2000, some Mothers polish, and some Teflon Silicon lubricant. Start identifying every source of drag within the fork (there are many). If overwhelmed, buy a new fork that moves and has real seals.
 

kidwoo

Celebrating No-Pants Day
Aug 25, 2003
21,993
1,680
In my pants
As above - they are valved very lightly stock, double all compression shims and you'll have a good starting point. If you have one of the later models with the 2-stage stack, convert it into a normal pyramid one - it is a bit silly to have a 2-stage stack when the HS adjuster just bends them down.

I'd stick to the standard oil weight to simplify servicing later (rather than having to mix oils each time), tune with the shims.

Some guys are running them with dust wipers only for less stiction which seems to work successfully - I'd use new wipers if you go down this route. Fox Green Oil works well for lower lubrication.
What about just throwing some 20wt oil in the thing?
 

Raingauge

Monkey
Apr 3, 2008
692
0
Canadia
Man... I must have gotten a decent one from SRAM.

I weigh ~160lbs and run the stock spring with 2.5wt oil in the damper and no drop stop on the spring side. Its good on the small bumps and ramps up for the big ones; I rarely bottom it out. No brake dive either.

Slick honey the **** out of your bushings; I found that makes a huge difference. I also use carnuba (Turtle) wax on the stanchions, I'm not sure if it helps but they feel slippery afterwards.
 

boylagz

Monkey
Jul 12, 2011
470
2
SF bay area
Is there a huge difference say between a SRAM 15wt vs. Redline's 10wt medium? Anyone tried Redline and how it is vs. stock SRAM suspension fluid? Ive done some reading on Redline but its mostly on dirt bikes, I really wanna give these a go the next time I service my R2C2.
 

Udi

RM Chief Ornithologist: “I Brake for Birds”
Mar 14, 2005
4,718
797
What about just throwing some 20wt oil in the thing?
That would slow down your rebound too, and IMO the stock rebound damper in those things works pretty well. Oil weight also doesn't make a *huge* difference in variable aperture dampers anyway (i.e. double the viscosity doesn't equal nearly double the damping), and while it'll probably help as a quick fix I'd rather buy moar shimz.
 

kidwoo

Celebrating No-Pants Day
Aug 25, 2003
21,993
1,680
In my pants
obviously the preferred answer, always.........


But mine always felt like they had quite a bit of head room on the rebound damper too which is why I mentioned it.