[MisterMental]

hey hey,
never got round to doing mine today. but i promise i will tomorrow
just an nitial observation - the SC's dont have any socket type top caps ,
on the left let theres a 6mm allen key top cap and on the right theres an 8mm underneath the rebound adjuster

basterd jnsonUSA never sent me a rebound adjuster cap either:angry:

 

[IntenseKid]

So is 10w or 20w thicker or thiner than ure recommended 5w ?

 

[IntenseKid]

Ahh i just performed the service on the seals, took out the stanctions , cleaned and greased the seals, then placed them back in and put 5cc of the 20w oil in one leg and the 10w in the other, see how it goes.


Oh one question , on the right leg (no spring leg) at the top near the white plastic thing, there was like a 3mm plastic ring , that was just hanging around in that area, whats that for and where should it go ?


Thanks

 

[MisterMental]

Originally posted by IntenseKid
Ahh i just performed the service on the seals, took out the stanctions , cleaned and greased the seals, then placed them back in and put 5cc of the 20w oil in one leg and the 10w in the other, see how it goes.


Oh one question , on the right leg (no spring leg) at the top near the white plastic thing, there was like a 3mm plastic ring , that was just hanging around in that area, whats that for and where should it go ?


Thanks

what? your ment to put 5w40 motor oil in the forks and 5wt fork oil in the damping cartridge
i did mine today and now their silky smooth

 

[IntenseKid]

The only oil ive put it is just what will sit above the seals to keep them lubed, didnt touch the insides...

I know ure meant to use 5w-40 but i used 10w-40 and 20w-40 instead

Shouldnt be too much of a problem !

 

[MisterMental]

hmmm depends if it too thin itll just run past teh seals as someone else said, and IIRC your ment to put 10cc in?
i put 4cc in my SC's today

 

[IntenseKid]

10cc isnt a must, just means it will last longer before it wears out.

Im experimenting with the Oil grades so 5cc/5ml at the moment is ok for a few rides, to see if its seeping too much or not seeping at all.

 

[MisterMental]

Originally posted by Orven
That's it.
To check if properly bled, push the reb rod down and if it's bled properly, the reb rod should slowly retract back out.

when i had mine apart, the rebound rod only retraceted 1/2 to 2/3 of the full length
when it properl;y bled should it go all the way back to full length without needing to pull it the resst of the way so to say

 

[MikeD]

Mine was the same way...as long as it moves back out somewhat, you should be OK. We chalked it up to the tight-ass seal around the rod.

MD

 

[MisterMental]

when youy bleed th tpc jobbie you onle need to bleed the compression end of things? you dont need to bleed the rebound end either? or are tehy connected somewhat?

 

[RunIsland Rider]

Originally posted by MisterMental
what? your ment to put 5w40 motor oil in the forks and 5wt fork oil in the damping cartridge
i did mine today and now their silky smooth

does it work for the boxxer line?

 

[MisterMental]

yeah go on
put motor oil in yah boxxers

 

[RunIsland Rider]

Which viscosity for a 55 kilos rider ?in which side of the fork ?

 

[MisterMental]

um i was taking the piss just there

 

[MisterMental]

oook ive just relised that my forks are bottoming out on teh disc mount, im running the 6" hayes mount and the fork is hitting the mount at full compression, nothing a file cant fix, just like to let yall know

 

[Skunk Rider]

Thank you for a wicked step-by-step overview of the Dorados. Very helpful and informative.

I have a 2003 Dorado DH and was wondering, would you happen to know the dimensions of the Evil Genius seals and aluminum rings? I ask because sometimes these seals sell for a fraction of the price at my local hydraulic store rather than my local bike shop, yet they are identical (internal diameter, external diameter, and depth are the only dimensions I need). You know... going with the ghetto spirit of using PVC tube and handmade tools and all...

Additionally, are the aluminum rings easy to acquire? If so, would you happen to know the dimensions of these as well? Finally, is it possible to replace the seals without replacing the aluminum rings?

Thanks again for a helpful piece.

Cheers.

 

[Tazer]

I've just serviced my Dorado and it was really not a big thing, thanks Orven
But now I have some questions: the seal round my rebound rod in the top cap of the lower tube seems to be very narrow. It needs much force to push it up and down and I can feel ist also while riding. Do you know that problem and have a solution for it?
Second problem is nearly the same, the big black seal of the IFP assemby is very hard to move in the lower leg. I wasn't able to pull the IFP assembly out of the lower tube, I had to to beat on it from the top of the tube with a long rod to remove it!
Third question: where should the rebound rod be when I reinstall the compression dampenig needle after bleeding? Should I push it in or should I pull it out to the maxium?

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by Tazer
I've just serviced my Dorado and it was really not a big thing, thanks Orven
But now I have some questions: the seal round my rebound rod in the top cap of the lower tube seems to be very narrow. It needs much force to push it up and down and I can feel ist also while riding. Do you know that problem and have a solution for it?
Some rebound rod/shaft tend to be sticky cuz the seal on some of the top TPC chambers (reb) are tight. Either get them replaced by Manitou or just break them in which may take some time.

Second problem is nearly the same, the big black seal of the IFP assemby is very hard to move in the lower leg. I wasn't able to pull the IFP assembly out of the lower tube, I had to to beat on it from the top of the tube with a long rod to remove it!
Hmm. No idea what's up there but the IFP assembly, in general, do not come out of the chamber without a fight

Third question: where should the rebound rod be when I reinstall the compression dampenig needle after bleeding? Should I push
it in or should I pull it out to the maxium?
I believe I mentioned this previously and the reb rod should be fully extended out when you fill up the chamber with oil before closing the TPC.

 

[Tazer]

Thank you .
Yesterday I've found another Problem: the lower tubes of my Dorado are just 16cm out of the uppers. Even if I pull them down, there are only 17cm. So how can this fork have 18cm Travel?

 

[MisterMental]

possibly negative travel?

 

[felixy69]

i've heard something about bleeding the TPC side of the fork?
how does it work can u explain?

also my friend said if u put the c-clip that holds the tpc together, pull the c-clip down 1 slot u can make oil float down to the fork?
something like that..i got really confuesed!
thanks

 

[MikeD]

EDIT: Dude, read the thread. Orven has detailed pics and instructions on bleeding the damper...

 

[felixy69]

oh oops sorry! didn't read that far! lol


can u POST something about shermans?

thanks

 

[Gonz]

What is the typical service interval for the Dorado ? (i.e. how often do you need to lube the seals ?)

 

[RDU]

Is it normal to have oil showing on each ride? The right leg seems to be the leaking. Left is clean. Are my seals blown or is this a normal Dorado lubing trademark? Thanks

 

[atrokz]

com'on Orven!!

Lets hear about the MRD Dorado's and Shermans.

The masses are waiting!

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by RDU
Is it normal to have oil showing on each ride? The right leg seems to be the leaking. Left is clean. Are my seals blown or is this a normal Dorado lubing trademark? Thanks

Typically, some 'residual oil' will appear on the stanchions and that's normal. However, gushing and 'flow' indicates that your particular seal maybe worn. I'd say pay close attention to it every after ride and see if oil is actually gushing out. Residual is normal and indicates that lubing is taking place.

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by atrokz
com'on Orven!!

Lets hear about the MRD Dorado's and Shermans.

The masses are waiting!

Still have lots of trash cans and dirty rags to clean out at Manitue to get my hands on the Xworks. I'm actually happy with my Slider Plus.
The Slider+ is pretty easy to open up and maintain too. I'll post some how to on it when I'm really bored.
I highly recommend the Slider+ for those looking for a regular Dorado alternative. For the price, it's tits!

 

[atrokz]

Originally posted by Orven
.
The Slider+ is pretty easy to open up and maintain too. I'll post some how to on it when I'm really bored.
I highly recommend the Slider+ for those looking for a regular Dorado alternative. For the price, it's tits!

I know.

I got one

Also got a MRD Dorado coming in too

Bling bling

 

[Orvan]

Originally posted by atrokz

Also got a MRD Dorado coming in too

Bling bling

for that, I temporarily hate you.

 

[Stinky_Rider]

Originally posted by Orven
Still have lots of trash cans and dirty rags to clean out at Manitue to get my hands on the Xworks. I'm actually happy with my Slider Plus.
The Slider+ is pretty easy to open up and maintain too. I'll post some how to on it when I'm really bored.
I highly recommend the Slider+ for those looking for a regular Dorado alternative. For the price, it's tits!

What about for maintenance (slider +) got any tips for it. How often do you rebuild/tune your dorados? Should I consider getting a 02 dorado and sell my slider if maintenance isn't too bad?

 

[Shanks]

I have to throw this one in....

Out of all the forks I've ridden, and overhauled/fixed over the years. The manitou is my favorite for both. Its easy as **** to overhaul, just messy as ****!

 

[Orvan]

What about for maintenance (slider +) got any tips for it. How often do you rebuild/tune your dorados? Should I consider getting a 02 dorado and sell my slider if maintenance isn't too bad?

Dorados, it depends. It depends on the rate of the oil inside drying up. My general protocol is usually every 2 months I squirt about 10cc or so of oil in each legs from top and usually pull the uppers off to clean residue and "burnt" oil inside and regrease the seal area. Doing this reduces the oil just running through the EG seals. Also, newer seal kits have a foam ring around the seals. This serves the purpose of the "grease pack."

I had few issues with the Slider+.

First, I have a 1.5 headtube and turn radius is greatly affected bec the Slider + is narrower. Also, I think the SPV hurts this fork in the initial stroke. I believe Manitou has addressed this on their newer batches (post July 2004 batches), similar (if not, the one) SPV Evolve. Unfortunately, I sold the Slider before I got the chance to do a photo op of the tear down and maintenace.. Maybe the Stance Kingpin can take its place when I get it in.

Ultimately, as personal preference goes, I prefered to get back on the Dorado. It's easier to maintain, rebuild and to work on generally than any of the current Manitou forks out now. You can convert an 01-02 Dorado to 2004 specs within 30 mins if you get the IFP and EG seals upgrade...

In the meantime, yum!!!

 

[chicodude]

 

[Orvan]

Is your 02 Dorado worthless? Yes, so please sell them to me quickly.
How to convert your stock 02 Dorado to 2004+ specs?
I will be working on a loaner fork that I am lending to one of my team riders, Micro-Sanjay. This Dorado lacked the TLC from the day it was purchased, raced and ran down. Structurally, it's in great shape. Functionally, it was crap! So here's the tear down and gutting just for fun!

The stuff:

- 5w-20 Motor Oil (for lubricant)
- 5wt Fork oil
- My ghetto Dorado TPC+ bleed kit (big syringe and clear plastic tube that fits snugly into the compression needle at the bottom cap)
- IFP (Independent floating piston) upgrade kit.
- Evil Genius seals, foam rings and aluminum set rings.

TOOLS:
- 20mm socket and wrench.
- Vice grip and old rubber grip (to remove the top cap on the spring leg rod)
- 13mm open end wrench
- 8mm hex key
- flat screw driver
- 10" crescent wrench
- and stuff!!

 

[Orvan]

The next procedures assumed that y'all have read the previous instrucstion contained within this thread in regards to the removal of the fork legs, rods, damper...etc etc..including the tools needed to perform them. If you have no idea, read back and jump back here.

With the legs disassembled, pop the old dust seals with a flat screw driver. Use a longer handle for better leverage as seals this old are harder to pop.

These are what that come out of the old Dorados -pre evil genius seals era.
From the left, bottom seal, C-clip and outer dust seal.

Clean the inner leg where where the new seal will sit. Make sure to use a degreaser. I use simple green and finish with household rubbing alcohol. Let it dry.

Add a line of blue loctite on the aluminum sleeve.

Line the sleeve up and tap it in. I use a 1 1/4 PVC pipe as my ring and seal tool to press them in.

Sit the Evil Genius seal evenly and tap it in using a prescribed seal tool or what I use, 1 1/4 PVC pipe.

A new addition last year, foam ring. In between the EG seal assembly and the fork bushing, there is a cavity where this foam ring will sit in. Slip it in there.

Goop some prep m in there.

Do the same on both legs and let them sit and settle while getting onto the next step. The disassembly of the TPC+ chamber and upgrading the old foam compensator system to the more reliable and consistent IFP system.

 

[Orvan]

I assume y'all know how to get into the TPC+ chamber. There are instructions within this thread.

Anyways, after undoing the comp rod nut using a 13mm wrench, unscrew the compression needle from the TPC bottom cap counter clockwise by hand. Pull it out and tilt fork leg down into a drain bucket. Drain oil completely.

After emptying the fork oil as much as you can, use a 20mm socket to remove the bottom cap. When you pull this out, this will hold the compression piston/rod assumbly including the old foam compensator.

The old compensator. Discard the foam.

I took this opportunity to take both reb and comp assemblies out for closer inspection of the shim and ports. All is good. Note the small spring on top of the picture, that's the IFP upgrade kit.

To upgrade, place the flat surfaces of the 20mm bottom cap on a vice clamp.

Using a 13mm open end wrench, remove the piston assembly seat from the comp rod.

Place the spring, the spring retainer/seat, floating piston (make sure to dab some prep m lube inside the floating piston) and flat washer (that came with the upgrade kit).

Dab a bit of loctite onto the piston assembly thread before replacing.

Push the new assembly down to screw the piston assembly back.

TADA! The updated compression circuit assembly with the IFP.

Reinstall the compression assembly back into the fork leg. Leave the comp needle out for now. Insert the tube of the ghetto bleed kit into the hole where the compression needle goes. Make sure to fit it it good, airtight.

I normally use the bikestand to clamp the fork leg for bleeding but I got lazy.
Pour in the 5wt fork oil into the syringe. Fill the fork leg with fork oil.

Once it's filled with oil, cycle the fork leg by pushing the rebound rod in all the way to force the oil back out on the syringe. Doing this rids the TPC+ of air bubbles. Note that Dorado TPC+ chamber has to be bleed free of air for proper function. Cycle the leg until no air bubbles are present. Remove the bleed kit, reinsert the comp needle (this will cause the oil to be displaced so do this over a drain bucket or something). Replace the needle nut and viola!

Reinstall the lowers with the upper and put about 10cc of 5w20 oil from the top prior to installing the top caps. This is just for the lubrication.

And just like that, a 2002 dorado with 2004 specs!!!

time to go to bed...
PM Rabie for questions on how to convert Dorado DH to strict freeriding applications.

 

[kicknitLivE]

Excellent thread! So the only upgrade to the 03 would be that foam ring, eh?

 

[Orvan]

Pretty much, it just keep the area saturated but not concentrated on the actual dust seal.

 

[MisterMental]

theres a bearing in that sits in the comp. assembly that makes the comp. adjuster needle click when you turn it. how do you put this in without dropping it into the tpc assembly or do you just leave it out? and can you change the bushings yourself or is it a sending away job?