For actual food cutting, you can order Maple butcher blocks from the internet - either custom sized, or over size, and you can cut it to fit.
For the non cutting countertops, you could do a plywood and Medex (water resistant MDF) substrate, with a top surface of laminate or solid surface like corian. Color core laminates are the same color on the surface and all the way through, so they don't show the brown line on the edges like regular laminates.
For actual food cutting, you can order Maple butcher blocks from the internet - either custom sized, or over size, and you can cut it to fit.
For the non cutting countertops, you could do a plywood and Medex (water resistant MDF) substrate, with a top surface of laminate or solid surface like corian. Color core laminates are the same color on the surface and all the way through, so they don't show the brown line on the edges like regular laminates.
Food grade mineral oil is a really popular treatment for butcher blocks, as is an oil/wax combo. I use the Howard brand oil/wax conditioner and it's worked great for the past 8 years.
I microwave it first so it flows well, apply to all surfaces and let it sit for a while to penetrate. Buff the excess and it's usually good for 6 or so months before retreating is required.
What’s the current finish? Oil like a real cutting board, or polyurethane like a typical butcher block countertop?
If you don’t use them as an actual cutting surface, and it’s currently poly, I’d sand and re-finish with a polyethylene designed for hardwood floors. They’re big and flat so they’re easy to sand and seal. All poly is food safe once dried, so don’t sweat the labeling, it can only be labeled as food safe if it’s safe “as sold” in liquid form. The stuff for floors is hard wearing and will last a long time, also thicker than a snickers so one coat should be all you need making this a 24 hour project instead of 48-72 for multiple thin coats.
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