Dude, its super easy, much as sub6 said. I just did the air to coil conversion on my Z3, just screw out the caps (I DO suggest buying a 21mm socket for the job!), pull out the old springs, and drop in the new ones. Just be sure to put all the pieces back in the right way (duh! ).
While you're in there, it may be a good time to check the oil for a change if needed, or adjust the height. Good luck man!
let the oil drip off the springs over the fork legs before you set them on the bench or whatever... quite a few CCs can be on the coils, and it can change the fork's feel...
Ok, So it was incredibly easy, thanks for the comments. The 21mm was dead on and it took all of 5 minutes to do. Thanks for the comments.
Now a follow up. I'm supposed to have 100mm of travel, and I know the springs I just put in were 100mm springs, but when I compress that thing I only get 80mm whether the preload adjusters are wide open or closed tight.
Originally posted by dmvprof Ok, So it was incredibly easy, thanks for the comments. The 21mm was dead on and it took all of 5 minutes to do. Thanks for the comments.
Now a follow up. I'm supposed to have 100mm of travel, and I know the springs I just put in were 100mm springs, but when I compress that thing I only get 80mm whether the preload adjusters are wide open or closed tight.
If you want 100mm travel, you have to change the negative springs too, as well as the main springs. That's more complex. If you bought a 100mm upgrade kit, you should have a pair of small springs, about 20mm long, left over. Those are the negative springs. If you just bought 100mm springs off some guy, you probably are going to have to go to your LBS and order a pair of neg. springs; be sure to specify which fork you have and how much travel you need.
BTW, preload has no real effect on travel, just so you know.
You have to:
1. take out the main springs
2. drain the oil,
3. then remove the bottom nuts (foot nuts). This will allow you to
4. remove stanchion tubes with the valve assembly inside.
5. remove the valves from the stanchion tubes, using a pair of snap-ring pliers. Be very careful in removing the valve, because I presume that you aren't too experienced with fork internals, and if you mess it up, it'll be hard to put back together. Make sure you print out a manual from the Marzocchi site, it helps show how everything fits together.
Once the valve assembly is out,
6. take out the old negative spring, and replace it with the new, shorter negative spring (shorter neg. spring = more travel).
7. Replace the valves into the stanchions, and the stanchions into the lowers,
8. redo the foot nuts,
9. put in oil according to whatever height it's supposed to be at (probably 50mm from the top of the stanchion tube, with the fork compressed). Make sure you cycle the stanchions a few times to make sure there's no air bubbles in there, b/c that'll mess up your measurement. Once you've got 50mm of oil, no air, you can
10. put the main springs back in, put the preload spacers/washers on, and replace the top caps.
Granted, this is how you do most Marzocchis; I don't have your fork so yours might be slightly different. But that's generally the idea.
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