me crank be a creakin'
- Thread starter LordOpie
- Start date
What kind of crank/bb interface do you have?
If its splined or square taper, try cranking them down a bit.
Try removing the BB and regreasing the threads.
If its a new external BB, bearings could need replaced or relubed or again, threads greased. Make sure everything's tight and all that good stuff before you go paying some guy to fix something very simple
If its splined or square taper, try cranking them down a bit.
Try removing the BB and regreasing the threads.
If its a new external BB, bearings could need replaced or relubed or again, threads greased. Make sure everything's tight and all that good stuff before you go paying some guy to fix something very simple
If you're sure it's coming from your cranks and the arms are tight, it is usually one of three things: One of your bb cups is loose and/or dry where it threads into your frame, or the interface between the cartridge bb and the cup is dry (for square taper or ISIS), or you've got a loose chainring bolt.
oops, sorry... Shimano 105
those issues are beyond my maintenance interest level.
So what y'all are saying is that I should just take it to the LBS since I don't wrench more than cleaning and adjusting shifting, fit issues, and other simple things?
Yes45
I called an LBS and described the problem and asked when I could get my bike back. They said they couldn't tell me until they knew what the problem was, but I would probably get it back Saturday.
I said, "Saturday? No way I could get it back by Friday?"
They said they couldn't answer that without knowing the problem. I said, "assume worse case scenario other than frame damage."
They still couldn't answer me.
If I brought them my bike at lunch today (Monday), is it unreasonable for me to think that they should guarantee me my bike by end of day Friday?
I said, "Saturday? No way I could get it back by Friday?"
They said they couldn't answer that without knowing the problem. I said, "assume worse case scenario other than frame damage."
They still couldn't answer me.
If I brought them my bike at lunch today (Monday), is it unreasonable for me to think that they should guarantee me my bike by end of day Friday?
This is a perfect example of why you should have more than a slight interest in learning how to wrench steve-o. LBS's are a pain.
Hmm, yeah, good point.
Problem is, I don't really have time to learn. Wrenching would essentially come out of my riding time.
I'll give the subject more thought.
If it is the BB creaking try pulling out the seat and pour a bit of WD-40 into the seat tube. It will drain into the BB, penetrate and lube the BB threads. I have actually done this successfully when I didn't have the time to do it right.
He hee. I said penetrate and lube.
He hee. I said penetrate and lube.
I learn(ed) all my wrenching skillz in the winter when it's too nasty to ride...Also, pulling the cranks and bb, cleaning, putting back together (sounds like the issue...but...) takes all of about 15 minutes for a beginning tinkerer...(that's about what it took me when I started tinkering...I'm down to about 4-6 min now...)
Different shops have different amounts of repair backlog, so it's hard to say just what is reasonable. Some shops are 2-3 weeks booked solid. This could be a quick job or it could take some time, and it's not really fair to other customers to fix your bike first, especially since a creak is rarely an emergency - you can still ride, whereas someone else might be unable to ride. A good shop should let you set up an appointment to bring in your bike the day of the repair - indeed some prefer it, since it saves space.
But yeah, if you plan to keep riding you should start picking up a wrench now and then.
But yeah, if you plan to keep riding you should start picking up a wrench now and then.
I think I'll go with that... practice and learn in the winter.
Are they these?
http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=122
Cranks are really easy to remove/install. One side is left hand threaded is the only trick -- remove the BB cups the direction the cranks spin when you are riding. One other thing I have learned is always start the cups by hand when installing, it keeps cross threading to a minimum.
Specifically, they're the older 9-speed black triple.They say "hollowtech" and "octalink" on them. And the BB is probably ultegra. I'm not sure if my bike builder was able to get a 105 BB two years ago.
Then you need these instrustions:
Crank removal
and
BB removal
And maybe some Troubleshooting
Since you have octalink, you need to make sure the crank is tight on the spindle. If an octalink crankarm gets loose, it will mess up the interface, and they will be ruined.
So what you're saying is that I should learn on my back-up bikes, not my primary roadie?
Perhaps this winter, I'll build a durable, snow capable commuter bike from scratch to learn on.
No, I'm saying if your cranks are creaking that before you ride it again to make sure they are on tight. If you do decide to work on your stuff just throw in a 10mm(?) for a few rides to make sure you tightened them good.
Negative on the wd40, No no no no no. WD40 Is not, i repeat NOT a Lubricant, it is in fact a solvent. Thats right an Oil based drying and cleaning solvent. If you are going to try lubing it through the seat tube, use triflow, but remember it will collect dirt after a while.
The older 105 Octalink is what i have on my oadie as well, need to pull the cranks and BB every 400 or 500 miles, clean it all up, lube teh threads on the BB little lube on teh BB splines and torque it all back together.
If you lived near me, i would say bring me your bike, we try our best for a 24hour turn around on all repairs, we have at least four people wrenching on bikes during the week. I do at least two bikes a week with the same problem your describing. It is not something that is a Shimano thing, it R&R bb and cranks alot.
Even you dont remove the BB completly you will need to loosen it, at least the non drive side, that way you can start of coarse by tightening the drive side then nondrive side and move on to reattaching the cranks.
good luck, its not too bad of a job to get done. its actually something most who ride alot should know how to do. have fun
The older 105 Octalink is what i have on my oadie as well, need to pull the cranks and BB every 400 or 500 miles, clean it all up, lube teh threads on the BB little lube on teh BB splines and torque it all back together.
If you lived near me, i would say bring me your bike, we try our best for a 24hour turn around on all repairs, we have at least four people wrenching on bikes during the week. I do at least two bikes a week with the same problem your describing. It is not something that is a Shimano thing, it R&R bb and cranks alot.
Even you dont remove the BB completly you will need to loosen it, at least the non drive side, that way you can start of coarse by tightening the drive side then nondrive side and move on to reattaching the cranks.
good luck, its not too bad of a job to get done. its actually something most who ride alot should know how to do. have fun
I will be the LBS voice of reason here. Since I have a full week, I sympathize with the shop. I had a guy come in for shifting and then one of my guys dropped everything and installed a new Dura Ace double. The old 7700 ones, I think, if I recall. He also got a BB for it. Total cost was $275 for parts. He got it installed on the spot, and then asked the owner for a deal and was given the f*cking labor and tax for free, basically. I am of the opinion you should learn simple maintenance on it, LO. If not, be cool and explain things and guys like me will help you out.
thanks all!
I'm gonna take it to one of the LBSs this time, but I WILL learn to do this kind of maintenance come this fall.
Especially if pulling and cleaning it periodically is a good idea.
I'll bug y'all again come September
Probably the best thing to do there, it really is an easy task, but you need the tools first. not too expensive, but dont get the cheapest either.