Hey, i need to set-up my mech brakes, any tips you could give me?
Mech Disks
- Thread starter Hardrock Rider
- Start date
need more info... brake type/brand at least.
Tektro IO mechanical disc, 6" rotor they are currently rubbing all the time and adjusting hte cables doesn't seem to help, by the time i get it not to rub, it's pointless, it takes until the lever is are my knuckes just to start to stop my wheels. the bike is almost brand new and came with them, 1 short muddy ride is pretty much it. I have noticed that the rotors arn't round or flat.
if someone would be nice enough to spend some time helping my on MSN or AIM you can get me at Chris7_99@hotmail.com or aebasher. thanks
:dancing:
if someone would be nice enough to spend some time helping my on MSN or AIM you can get me at Chris7_99@hotmail.com or aebasher. thanks
:dancing:
Those Tektros are pretty nice. I've found them to be fairly easy to work with. I'll try to explain this out in levels. I have no idea what your knowledge or skill level is, so I'll explain it as well as I can. This is probably a little confusing, but I'm trying to explain the operation of the brake and then the procedure to adjust them.
On these brakes, the inner (side by the wheel) brake pad does not move when the brake lever is pulled. The outer pad moves when you squeeze the lever. There are three bolts to be concerned with. The obvious one is the bolt that secures the cable down. The other two bolts attach the brake caliper to the adapter. Ignore the two bolts that attach the adapter to the frame.
To get these brakes set up, first you're going to need to align the caliper so that the rotor goes through the slot straight (not crooked). After that, you'll need to set up the pads so that they are spaced properly from the rotor.
First, loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the adapter. The inside fixed pad actually has an adjuster. It is a bolt on the inside (closest to the wheel) side of the caliper. You'll probably need to reach it through the spokes. Screw this in a bit, but not until it locks up. (If it seems like this bolt won't turn at all, check to see if there is a little tiny bolt head somewhere on the side of the caliper. I don't remember if the Tektro has it, but some Hayes mechs have a little bolt to lock the inside pad into position. If yours brakes have this, loosen it before you adjust the inside pad, and tighten it when you're done.) Now loosen the bolt that holds the cable. Also make sure to fully screw in the barrel adjuster on the brake. With one of your hands, fully squeeze the little arm that the cable would usually pull. This should lock up the brake. The point of this step is to squeeze the rotor between the pads, so that the brake caliper will align itself to the rotor. Now, while you're keeping the caliper tight, fully tighten the two bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter.
Now back off the inside caliper bolt so that it is close, but not touching the rotor. Pull the brake cable taut with your hand and secure it under the cable bolt. Take look to see how well the pads line up to the rotor. Your inside pad should be close to the rotor, but not touching. Chances are good that your outside pad is much farther from the rotor. There are several ways to get it closer. Your best bet is to loosen the cable bolt, move the arm, and retighten the bolt. You can also play with the barrel adjusters on the caliper or the lever. Spin the wheel and make sure nothing rubs. If you have rubbing, you can back out either pad by using the screw on the inside or adjusting the cable.
If it still seems all wrong, squeeze the lever and watch how the rotor moves when the caliper squeezes. If the rotor moves a lot to the inside of the wheel, then the inside pad is too far away. If you move it in just a bit and it seems to rub, your caliper is probably not aligned. Repeat the aligning procedure and try again.
Good luck!
On these brakes, the inner (side by the wheel) brake pad does not move when the brake lever is pulled. The outer pad moves when you squeeze the lever. There are three bolts to be concerned with. The obvious one is the bolt that secures the cable down. The other two bolts attach the brake caliper to the adapter. Ignore the two bolts that attach the adapter to the frame.
To get these brakes set up, first you're going to need to align the caliper so that the rotor goes through the slot straight (not crooked). After that, you'll need to set up the pads so that they are spaced properly from the rotor.
First, loosen the two bolts that hold the caliper onto the adapter. The inside fixed pad actually has an adjuster. It is a bolt on the inside (closest to the wheel) side of the caliper. You'll probably need to reach it through the spokes. Screw this in a bit, but not until it locks up. (If it seems like this bolt won't turn at all, check to see if there is a little tiny bolt head somewhere on the side of the caliper. I don't remember if the Tektro has it, but some Hayes mechs have a little bolt to lock the inside pad into position. If yours brakes have this, loosen it before you adjust the inside pad, and tighten it when you're done.) Now loosen the bolt that holds the cable. Also make sure to fully screw in the barrel adjuster on the brake. With one of your hands, fully squeeze the little arm that the cable would usually pull. This should lock up the brake. The point of this step is to squeeze the rotor between the pads, so that the brake caliper will align itself to the rotor. Now, while you're keeping the caliper tight, fully tighten the two bolts that hold the caliper to the adapter.
Now back off the inside caliper bolt so that it is close, but not touching the rotor. Pull the brake cable taut with your hand and secure it under the cable bolt. Take look to see how well the pads line up to the rotor. Your inside pad should be close to the rotor, but not touching. Chances are good that your outside pad is much farther from the rotor. There are several ways to get it closer. Your best bet is to loosen the cable bolt, move the arm, and retighten the bolt. You can also play with the barrel adjusters on the caliper or the lever. Spin the wheel and make sure nothing rubs. If you have rubbing, you can back out either pad by using the screw on the inside or adjusting the cable.
If it still seems all wrong, squeeze the lever and watch how the rotor moves when the caliper squeezes. If the rotor moves a lot to the inside of the wheel, then the inside pad is too far away. If you move it in just a bit and it seems to rub, your caliper is probably not aligned. Repeat the aligning procedure and try again.
Good luck!
wow, that seems really complecated, but easy enough, these are my first disks ever and well, they rubed and sucked from day 1, thanks i'll go try that after i finish my tasty chex mix...mmm so good
Once you understand the basic concepts of aligning the caliper and then adjusting the pads, it's really easy. I'm sure you'll get it just fine.
And I'm going to get some Chex Mix too!
And I'm going to get some Chex Mix too!
Take it to the shop you bought it from and watch and ask questions as they fix it for free. Then buy a simple part to be courteous.
now, i have a few questions just so i can get it ridable for the next few days, i get a free total bike tune-up at 20-30 hours of riding so if i ride most of hte day, i can get it in. when you say adapder you mean the piece of AL that mounts to the frame that the brake mounts to right?
so you are telling me to set the inner pad, then, set them up by locking them up with loose adapter screws and while i lock them up, tighten the screws? cause that is what i did and it still rubbed, but the rotor doesn't turn perfectly straight, and i don't have a torx to take it off to see if it worped, if i zip out to the tool store and buy a set, and take the rotor off and it's pefectly flat, how do i make sure it goes straight?
sorry for any spelling errors, it's really early here and i am still half asleep
so you are telling me to set the inner pad, then, set them up by locking them up with loose adapter screws and while i lock them up, tighten the screws? cause that is what i did and it still rubbed, but the rotor doesn't turn perfectly straight, and i don't have a torx to take it off to see if it worped, if i zip out to the tool store and buy a set, and take the rotor off and it's pefectly flat, how do i make sure it goes straight?
sorry for any spelling errors, it's really early here and i am still half asleep
You are correct about the adapter.
I'm a little confused if you're describing what I meant to describe here, so let me try again. You adjust the inner pad (with its bolt) to stick out. With the adapter bolts loose, you squeeze the caliper, then tighten the adapter bolts. Then you back out the inner pad and adjust the outer pad too.
Most rotors don't turn perfectly straight. If it's off by more than a millimeter, you can probably try to straighten it a bit. Most shops have a little tool with a notch to bend the rotor back to shape, but you can do it yourself with a clean adjustable wrench or a clean rag and your bare hands. Just make sure to do it gently.
If you can't get it straight, you'll need to buy a new rotor. Oh yeah, don't take the rotor off the bike. It's a pain in the neck and it won't help you get it straight.
I'm a little confused if you're describing what I meant to describe here, so let me try again. You adjust the inner pad (with its bolt) to stick out. With the adapter bolts loose, you squeeze the caliper, then tighten the adapter bolts. Then you back out the inner pad and adjust the outer pad too.
Most rotors don't turn perfectly straight. If it's off by more than a millimeter, you can probably try to straighten it a bit. Most shops have a little tool with a notch to bend the rotor back to shape, but you can do it yourself with a clean adjustable wrench or a clean rag and your bare hands. Just make sure to do it gently.
If you can't get it straight, you'll need to buy a new rotor. Oh yeah, don't take the rotor off the bike. It's a pain in the neck and it won't help you get it straight.
i don't think it's off by more than a mm, i'll try that again
If it's still giving you problems, you can try to straighten the rotor, even if it's barely off. You just need to be aware that you may end up making the problem worse because it's more difficult to see how your efforts are effecting the rotor (because it's only barely off-line).
i'm taking it in this weekend so i'll just make it ridealbe until then