medium or long cage 9.0sl difference?
- Thread starter JMAC
- Start date
I think you'll need the long cage for that cassette.
Ask Jenson.com before you order.
I think the medium cage 9.0SL and X.0 rear ders have a chain wrap of 38 teeth, while the long cage have a wrap of 43 teeth, I think.
Wrap is the difference between your big-big combination and your little-little combination.
So, for example (42t in front + 32 t in back) - (22t in front + 11t in back) = 41t of chainwrap required = use a long cage der.
If your rear der. doesn't wrap enough chain, then either it won't be able to take up the slack in some small/small combos, or it'll get stretched (and probably broken) in a big/big combo.
But, if you were going to run a 29/44 two-ring setup
(44+32) - (29+11) = 36 = medium cage.
[wrap is different from largest cog, which is simply the biggest cassette you can use -- most "mountain bike" derailleurs go to 32 or 34, while most road will only do 27-29].
Wrap is the difference between your big-big combination and your little-little combination.
So, for example (42t in front + 32 t in back) - (22t in front + 11t in back) = 41t of chainwrap required = use a long cage der.
If your rear der. doesn't wrap enough chain, then either it won't be able to take up the slack in some small/small combos, or it'll get stretched (and probably broken) in a big/big combo.
But, if you were going to run a 29/44 two-ring setup
(44+32) - (29+11) = 36 = medium cage.
[wrap is different from largest cog, which is simply the biggest cassette you can use -- most "mountain bike" derailleurs go to 32 or 34, while most road will only do 27-29].
i'd go ahead and get a long cage. a long cage will handle up to a 34 tooth in the rear. that way just incase you ever decide to go to a 34, which you very well might, then you are covered instead of having to buy a new derailuer. i'd ask jenson or price point, but generally if you have a sram product and it breaks those dudes are cool n well help you out.
Has anyone actually set their Long cage XTR up to where it works properly with a 34 rear without it dragging on the cassette?
I hear people say the do/did but i've had mine at 4 different shops and mech's and no body seems to be able to do it.
I hear people say the do/did but i've had mine at 4 different shops and mech's and no body seems to be able to do it.
The cage length does not determine how large a rear cog the derailleur will handle but how much chain the derailleur will take up. Its as recidivist said.
The cables are easy to change on current SRAM shifters. The old ones were a pain.
My XTR and the Wifes is close to working noise free in the 22X34 but not quite. Its not possible to eliminate the drag on my bikes. I have tried various chan lengths, b tension is at max, full tension at the other spring makes it worse. It might be the hanger is not up to Shimano spec but I don't know for sure. Doesn't affect my riding though.
The cables are easy to change on current SRAM shifters. The old ones were a pain.
My XTR and the Wifes is close to working noise free in the 22X34 but not quite. Its not possible to eliminate the drag on my bikes. I have tried various chan lengths, b tension is at max, full tension at the other spring makes it worse. It might be the hanger is not up to Shimano spec but I don't know for sure. Doesn't affect my riding though.
You're going to the wrong shops.
Most any of the Shimano derail's have an extra little screw at the base of where it screws onto the hanger. (I forget the name of that screw right now...) Turn it clock-wise while pedaling in middle ring/ big cog till it stops, then turn it 1/2 times more.
That should do it.
yea it's called the b screw (hehehe screw) but i/we still cant get it not to rub.
B tension screw is the name and you adjust it in the lowest gear NOT the middle ring. And with a 34 as the lowest cog and a 22 up front, many bikes cannot be made to run without some noise caused by drag. Putting an old 10 tooth top pulley might do it though.