Metric RC4 Chicanery
- Thread starter HAB
- Start date
I haven't cracked that one open yet, so I'm not sure what's in there. I'll pull it apart one of these days and make a plan from there. But thanks, I appreciate the offer! I'll let you know once I've had a look inside.
Next challenge:
Adapting an RC4 to one of these fucktard Trunnion mounts. Anyone done this yet? I have some janky ideas.
Also looking out for an 8.5x2.5 RC4 to adapt to a 205x60 on a 2020 Enduro.
Adapting an RC4 to one of these fucktard Trunnion mounts. Anyone done this yet? I have some janky ideas.
Also looking out for an 8.5x2.5 RC4 to adapt to a 205x60 on a 2020 Enduro.
A 200x57 might be easier to make work. I do it with a solid tube of 7000 series alu threaded on each side for the trunion screws. I took out the bushings in the eyelet so the tube can be a slightly bigger diameter. It looks like you could run the Enduro in the high hole with a 200x57 shock and have a 345 mm bb height and 9mm less travel more or less.
I didn’t find a better pic but here’s my attempt at a Trunion delete.
And one in Bex
I didn’t find a better pic but here’s my attempt at a Trunion delete.
And one in Bex
Hi guys, I too am looking to fit an RC4 onto my V4 Nomad, I have the cascade components LT link and am looking to shorten a 241x76 by 11mm, I have a few CNC machines to use so was initially going to make a 11mm delrin spacer, however after reading this thread I’m not sure it’s so easy due to the rebound position?
Yeah, as discussed you can't just make a spacer and put it on the shaft. It needs to stay stuck to the sealhead, and be a close slip fit on the shaft in order for the topout control to work right. Ideally the spacer would hold the topout bumper too, but that's a little less critical.
I did it with a press fit into the gland for the topout bumper and despite @Udi's concerns, my buddy hasn't died yet, at least as of half an hour ago when he was texting me arguing about tires.
I did it with a press fit into the gland for the topout bumper and despite @Udi's concerns, my buddy hasn't died yet, at least as of half an hour ago when he was texting me arguing about tires.
Yeah, but if he texts me instead, it's much easier for me to take notice and call him a dumbass. It's all about that personal touch.Does he know there's almost a whole forum here for that
pretty sure they have the same tear drop port on the shaft for top out
So, how’s she feel?
First ride is later today. Cascade link is pretty damn good. I can’t believe how well it pedals considering it’s got 190mm rear travel, I consistently get my best climbing times on the nomad rather than my 5010, and as for the descents, it’s pretty much a DH bike.
So just done a 22ml ride, it includes 2 DH rocky segments that are about a minute long. Initial thoughts are that it’s pretty good, more supportive than the Vorsprung tuned RCT and a lot more supple. The uphill sections were just as good, and the one 6 minute technical climb over roots/rocks was very good, a lot more traction.
Bringing this thread back...
Speaking hacking shocks, I have one of those Push MX-2 tuned Fox shocks. It's 7.875x2.25 and I want to make a 9.0x2.5 out of it. I'm thinking what I can do is get a 9.5x3.0 DHX5 and get a shaft and rebound needle from a 8.5x2.5 shock, put it back together and then have my local suspension shop tune it for my current frame. Make sense??
Speaking hacking shocks, I have one of those Push MX-2 tuned Fox shocks. It's 7.875x2.25 and I want to make a 9.0x2.5 out of it. I'm thinking what I can do is get a 9.5x3.0 DHX5 and get a shaft and rebound needle from a 8.5x2.5 shock, put it back together and then have my local suspension shop tune it for my current frame. Make sense??
**Bump** Still looking for a shock if anyone can help:
Found a brand new RC4 for cheap. People here seem to recommend the thinner shaft, Air Assist model but this one is the Boost Valve. Wondering if it'll still do what I want it to do (not blow through travel, mid stroke support) or if the thicker shaft/boost valve is a deal breaker.
@shelteringsky
It sounds like you could try more air in your vivid to start with!
It sounds like you could try more air in your vivid to start with!
Yeah, tried that. Wasn't holding air, seals seemed to be leaking. Ready to move on..
I’m going to go with probably yes, at the expense of absorbing bumps. It’s basically position sensitive and that boost valve really negatively affects the bumps and the shaft size doesn’t displace enough oil. You can definitely set it up to not blow through travel, but the boost valve is usually a deal breaker.
I'd run an RC4 over a Vivid Air any day, especially in a DH bike. Should be an improvement in both support and bump absorption provided you pick the right spring rate. You can also remove the boost valve pretty easily if you're comfortable with rebuilding shocks, it's not related to the fat shaft or the DSC compression assembly in the neck. Just be careful not to scratch the IFP tube while removing the BV circlip if doing this. I'd try it stock first, might be fine.
The other issue worth checking is whether the neck uses the thicker single-turn circlip to retain the compression adjusters, the older thinner snap ring with multiple turns has a tendency to fall out (along with all the oil). One benefit of the later small-shaft Kashima model is that it's guaranteed to have the circlip update.
Cheers for the replies, guys. Will spend a bit more time and try to find one of those elusive Air Assist models, but if not, Boost Valve version it is.
