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Discussion in 'BMX & Dirt Jumping' started by LandoCalrissian, Dec 26, 2007.
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i think its so cool that your friends mom took those photos!
nice, how much does it weigh all up, looks to be a light build
yeah, that's pimpin'!
Another fine Gen. 1 specimen, my favorite ingredient.
I'm puttin' money down on around 27-28lb region. Heavy tires, but pretty light rims to offset... hard to tell... fairly similar build to mine weight wise. ti spindle? what bars and stem? uncut post?
nice bloody trail peds. looks like in the pic they were red peds rat-canned black though, haha.
Nemesis Project bar
Odsy lever (Colony on the way)
Animal clamp, post and seat
Tree 28T spline drive
Demolition cranks w/ ti spindle
Trail mix peds
Rhynolite/Odsy Hazard wheels
Specialized compound tires
Tires are temp till something lighter comes about (KHE maybe?) Pedals are heavier than I wanted but they're rad in person.
I was looking to be between 25-27lb, I beleive its at a high 26.
Closeup of bars (thanks brad!) and the peds
haha, nice spec. list!
not to nit pick on weight though, but man, I can't get near 25lb with a rigid Rebate fork and Schwalbe TT on my gen. 1. Argyles aren't that light. and with a hazard, nempro bars, and 28t... I'm not buyin' it.
and watchout, that Kink Relief can crush some bars with ease.
I'm well aware of the stem issue, a 20er in town had one...not only did it crush his bars and steerer it broke a bolt as well................but he's a moron and likes to tighten things in a circle.
25,26,27 or 28...either way it's light, stiff and I love it. Note that the Staats behind it is 29lbs and this feels lighter!
I'll take to work to get an offical weight.
yeah man, I smashed the heck out of some Atomlab Jesme Cig bars when I first picked that stem up. Didn't think I was overtightening at all since I've been around bolts for awhile... But man, I took a couple of diggers and the stem kept twisting around the steerer (which I hate), so I just kept tightening too, haha.... ouch. Took it apart to put my bike in a bag for flight and found it all deformed. Never stripped or broke any bolts though, that sucks for your bro. I like the hollow chromo stuff, way nicer than alu. cheese.
Haven't had any of those probs since going to the Folsom prisons though, and you'd expect those to spin on the steerer with the added leverage of the wide-glides. Maybe I just found the hotspot for the stem?
and man, c'mon, it's like my pet peeve, please ditch those donk spacers and chop that steerer, I think it sent me a subliminal help message over the screen or something.
I'll post some fresh photos of my gen 1 one of these days too... got a few mods on her since the last check up on these net forums (few holes drilled, a bit of grindage, and a custom 20mm Marmoset! ...and maybe a rat-can job one of these days too.)
I only have one street ride on it, they steerer will be cut once I find my ideal bar height.
Bike came out looking really clean , bars look great!!
that steerer tube looks dangerous...
nice bike nonetheless
that really looks like a big bmx frame. why deal with rim/u-brakes? i mean yeah the leverage or w/e would be easier but then you have to deal with either dented rims, poor braking surface, and un-true wheels. i would much rather prefer a disc set up
good for you! The brakes feel fantastic and are straight up dialed. On a 24in frame they make a little more sense than discs. And since when do non disc brakes cause dented rims and untrue wheels?
im just saying that since its a common problem in bmx bikes that disc brakes would be a simpler and better alternative. and no, u-brakes dont cause dented rims or untrue wheels silly...oster_oops:
but if the rims do get dented or untrue braking gets ****ty with a u-brake/rim brake set up. der
how are the medial lt's holding up for you? i really wanted to get a set but then i heard some nasty horror stories about them.. how long have u had them?
i dunno nvm i dont know anything about this frame. it dosnt even have disc brake mounts.
whatever works i guess
I thought the exact same way as you when I had my Eastern26 a couple of years ago... same thing happens when you hang up on a disc rotor and bend it out of true, I hated that, MUCH more common than taco'ing a rim. Even with a small 140mm rotor.
and hey Tetreault, I've got some Medial LT (with profile ti spindle actually) cranks too. Had'em for almost two seasons now, and on the DH/FR bike in 170mm. Couldn't ask for more with'em, they have taken everything I've put them through. Better than the FSA's I had. I also use them with some fly euro-spanish conversion cups. Not sure what horror stories you've heard. only horror stories I've heard were with the bad batch of Fly cranks, and the wombolts too...
i was just looking around on bike guide and a few people on there seemed to hate them and say they had worse durability problems then the fly's? but then again that forum is filled with die hard profile and primo dudes
I was going to get the flys, but was told by many 20er's to stay away. I know plenty of people running the demo's with no issuse so it just made sense.
Love the bike, I would get a Molly but I need Disc. I'm waiting for the SuperCo frames to become available.
Where is Finkmister? I live in Bel Air and have 16 acres at my parents house that I'm gonna build DJs this summer, I already have the area cleared and a pile of dirt. I'll prolly start in mid May when i get home from school, but If you are ever close and wanna come by and dig/jump lemme know.
Finkminster is in between westmonster and reistersburg.
dope! have you thought about dropping the fork?
I too have to have discs, but I don't ride park or street on my mtb
There is a reason for that.
Will the molly frame clear an arrow launch 2.35 tire i have a 24 inch wheel set with these and there just as wide as 2.5 minions on my dh bike these frames are sweet i like the superco but it will be too costly to build up plus i already have some sweet ass v brakes on an old cross country bike
just so you know the Molly's run bmx rear hub spacing (110mm) Idk if your wheelset is that but you should be ok with launches.
i know i would have to switch my hub out but thanks man i didn't know what kind of clearance the frame had with the tight rear triangle and bmx spacing
Arrow 2.35 will fit...
Nice build! That frame and wheel set looks familiar
I thought I recognized that color frame w/ the rhyno's... I remember you were hard up to sell her, was even looking a bit myself.
just ordered a brown 990 molly. psyched.
build will be posted. but i still need a god*amn front 20mm 24" wheel ! atomlab doesn't even have stock ones or offer a custom 24 i tried the spoke calculator to get one built myself but companies are not listing flange height with their hubs, or the nipple recess on their rims. help!
Just an update...
Bike rides freakin great, 20" guys love it as well. I learn something new nearly everytime I take it out for a serious sesh.
The brake is awesome!
Sprocket has been flawless
There might be a rigid fork in the future..
I know someone who is selling a set of 24 wheels. from what I understand, the front is an arrow dhx laced to a hadley and the rear is the same hoop laced to an atom lab hub. If you are interested, pm me.
my molly... thanks to phil from avalon cycles. it's definitely the best DJ bike i've ever ridden, if only i was better at dirt jumping:
it's basically a molly with the same argyle as lando's with fly cranks, fly rear brakes, and an avid juicy 5 up front. i wish the brakes were more even between the front and back and i'm still looking for fatter tires for the front/rear that have a little bit more bite than the kenda k-rads.
If the rears are 9mm I have a nice set of Sun Superstock wheels with thread on freewheel on E bay. And by the way, when you are building wheels the hub flange diameter is not important. What is important is the flange width.
hella thread jaxx yo!