just thought of something. an alu seat tube would be lighter than a steel one!
Molly's Enlightenment.
- Thread starter BikeSATORI
- Start date
tiles where did you get that set up. for the dropout?
got it from Castle. something home-made...
it looks like bitchen bolts and some kind of custom washer
it is (and I hate to derail satori's thread). I'm trying to have these spacers replicated at a local machine shop so I can do the same setup for the front hub 
I forgot what I was going to say.
oh yeah, NO JB WELD on this bike! c'mon, this ain't no bondo'ed fiberglass lead sled wannabe, we're talking full metal on this baby... That's a full cnc'ed custom piece fitted and slid down a little bit into the seattube for the pivotal mount. No joke there, that was a beauty, wish I could post some pics of it (can't host them for some reason? I'll try to post some from a different computer at another time.), but that was ALL GMD right there, his attention to detail and access to some multi-axis machine... machining it out of 1 solid piece of 4130, cut down like a half-pipe with splines in it... phenomenal work.
I just threw out the idea and he ran with it and made it reality... originally I was just working with him to do custom spacers for the Marmoset when I briefly brought up the ideas... and heck, he dug the concept too, so we followed through with it! Thanks again Greg, you're the man!
...and brakes are on now... but man, if my wheel comes out of true just a quarter inch, or moves in the slots, it's going to rub on those stupid undersized Demo brake arms... I may have to either ditch'em, or dremel them a hair... Threw on a new cable too, instead of that old white one I had. Brakeless is fun, but that's only riding manuals in circles in a barn, so as soon as I make outside anywhere I'd probably squirrel out... I've tried it before with that old Eastern I had and doesn't work with me, esp. in towns with elevation change.
ServeEm, no worries on the bike, just stating that I don't want to cop your style... and c'mon, you can still ride dirty that time of month. ohhh....
headtube cut-outs we're kind of in my head, but wouldn't be able to fit into the machine that way without special jigs... but no biggie. I like the clean look from the front without'em now, and I'll probably be covering those seat-tube slots with electrical tape anyway.
For me, I'd call 25lb light... even with possibility of going ligher... That's like an xc bike, but this is obviously stout, not carbon steerer tubes or whatever. And this really isn't far off from light bmx bikes either.
I'll probably drop over a half pound when I build up that new front wheel with the alienation rim and marmoset, and I could put one of those rims out back too, to lose close to a # total, but I've been having really good luck with my BFR out back, stays straight and has good braking surface.
oh yeah, Don, G-sport is dropping with a ratchet hub very soon, that is LDH and RDH compatible, but only goes down to 10t driver minimum... should be pretty cool.
Paint is powdercoat, just flat black. Not sure how much weight that added, but no doubt about it, will last longer and better than any rat-can job I originally had in mind!
...and that Kink stem is definitely light, for a bmx stem... but you can easily get way lighter, esp. if you go to a 25.4 alu. combo... but not my thing. That Kink has a tendency to crush bars very easily too, so gotta watch out for that.
anyway, thanks for the kind wordage on the hot-rodding projects. Some fun stuff to pass the time while I'm back here in the snow country taking care of some business for now....
oh yeah, NO JB WELD on this bike! c'mon, this ain't no bondo'ed fiberglass lead sled wannabe, we're talking full metal on this baby... That's a full cnc'ed custom piece fitted and slid down a little bit into the seattube for the pivotal mount. No joke there, that was a beauty, wish I could post some pics of it (can't host them for some reason? I'll try to post some from a different computer at another time.), but that was ALL GMD right there, his attention to detail and access to some multi-axis machine... machining it out of 1 solid piece of 4130, cut down like a half-pipe with splines in it... phenomenal work.
I just threw out the idea and he ran with it and made it reality... originally I was just working with him to do custom spacers for the Marmoset when I briefly brought up the ideas... and heck, he dug the concept too, so we followed through with it! Thanks again Greg, you're the man!
...and brakes are on now... but man, if my wheel comes out of true just a quarter inch, or moves in the slots, it's going to rub on those stupid undersized Demo brake arms... I may have to either ditch'em, or dremel them a hair... Threw on a new cable too, instead of that old white one I had. Brakeless is fun, but that's only riding manuals in circles in a barn, so as soon as I make outside anywhere I'd probably squirrel out... I've tried it before with that old Eastern I had and doesn't work with me, esp. in towns with elevation change.
ServeEm, no worries on the bike, just stating that I don't want to cop your style... and c'mon, you can still ride dirty that time of month. ohhh....
headtube cut-outs we're kind of in my head, but wouldn't be able to fit into the machine that way without special jigs... but no biggie. I like the clean look from the front without'em now, and I'll probably be covering those seat-tube slots with electrical tape anyway.
For me, I'd call 25lb light... even with possibility of going ligher... That's like an xc bike, but this is obviously stout, not carbon steerer tubes or whatever. And this really isn't far off from light bmx bikes either.
I'll probably drop over a half pound when I build up that new front wheel with the alienation rim and marmoset, and I could put one of those rims out back too, to lose close to a # total, but I've been having really good luck with my BFR out back, stays straight and has good braking surface.
oh yeah, Don, G-sport is dropping with a ratchet hub very soon, that is LDH and RDH compatible, but only goes down to 10t driver minimum... should be pretty cool.
Paint is powdercoat, just flat black. Not sure how much weight that added, but no doubt about it, will last longer and better than any rat-can job I originally had in mind!
...and that Kink stem is definitely light, for a bmx stem... but you can easily get way lighter, esp. if you go to a 25.4 alu. combo... but not my thing. That Kink has a tendency to crush bars very easily too, so gotta watch out for that.
anyway, thanks for the kind wordage on the hot-rodding projects. Some fun stuff to pass the time while I'm back here in the snow country taking care of some business for now....
Sick ride. I love tricked out stuff like that.
J
J
you stole one of my ideas (pivotal integrated) for my next bike but still got ya on a few things
sorry missed that question Don.
Actually you need a custom internal spacer too, so you don't shred the bearings when you tighten down on the bolts... like a tube spacer for cranks, in concept, just to keep the preload on the bearing inner races even with that on the outer races.
And if you get extra 5mm spacers to run with the stock spacers, you have to make sure you run them on the inside of the g-sport spacer, by the bearing, unless you can grind down the g-sport spacers to clear the bearing outer race if you run them next to it flush like... otherwise you will get rubbing issues and your wheel won't spin freely.
and hey Dexter, always looking forward to what you got up your sleeve, some good stuff.... but I most def. didn't steal any ideas on that one... I've been pondering this one long before ever seeing it anywhere else. Approached a few different people about going about this, but it finally worked out with GMD's help. Maybe the first on big bikes?
yeah, pretty much sums it up. Wish I could post the pictures I have but can't get them to show up on this computer for some reason... It shows a bit of the process of how the piece formed.
It was a nice piece. Has a little lip that extends just a bit down into the seat tube for structural reasons...
Works to my advantage to drop the clamp, seatpost, and in my case with the Gen1 frame, the shim to adapt 25.4 post to 26.??. I speed-holed the hell out of all of those parts before doing this (haha, you know me), but now it's just that much more lighter and simple.
only thing I can do now to make it simpler is to weld my bars to my fork steerer tube, and weld my 2.5pc cranks together to drop the bolt, hahaha... yeah right.
Got to get some pics of the seat post deal...
you can email them to me if need be....
you can email them to me if need be....
Again Dave, that bike rocks! It's always a pleasure working for good people like you.
Hey Lee, track me down at Ray's this Saturday and I'll give you the scoop on how I made the splined mount.
I'll be on that crazy cream bike....
GM
Here are some pics taken during the project:
Note the filled & blended slot on the seat tube and the smoothed seat stays. Every edge on this frame was rubbed on.
The yoke before detailing:
Smoothed yoke and enlarged the vent hole
Hey Lee, track me down at Ray's this Saturday and I'll give you the scoop on how I made the splined mount.
I'll be on that crazy cream bike....
GM
Here are some pics taken during the project:
Note the filled & blended slot on the seat tube and the smoothed seat stays. Every edge on this frame was rubbed on.
The yoke before detailing:
Smoothed yoke and enlarged the vent hole
shes a beauty alrite
gmdesigns, props! Quality looking work on those close-ups, really dig how you cleaned up the stay yoke! really looks nice!
Tiles, sorry I'm not more help, I actually gave my buddy a call the other day to see if I could get something else done, and he doesn't even have access to a machine right now....
Tiles, sorry I'm not more help, I actually gave my buddy a call the other day to see if I could get something else done, and he doesn't even have access to a machine right now....
Whoa - like a dope I assumed it was a JB Weld/Pivot post but then I knew Gen I frame have a 26.8 seat tube and should have known better that anything GM Designs is dialed to the 10th power. Great work guys - I love seeing all the small but nicely done details.
Tiles - I want that same setup on my Molly real bad.
Tiles - I want that same setup on my Molly real bad.
didnt mean to accuse you of actually stealing it, you beat me to the punch with it. looks so slick love it
this thread really shows how far a little ingenuity goes, nice work guys! I never would have thought of the little tweaks like removing material from vent holes, etc.
Don/Castle - I'm pretty sure I can get somebody local to copy those special washers. If I do, I'll prolly have 10 or so made that I'll sell for cost. Will post up when this happens. My machine guy is on the road and should be in Monday...
Don/Castle - I'm pretty sure I can get somebody local to copy those special washers. If I do, I'll prolly have 10 or so made that I'll sell for cost. Will post up when this happens. My machine guy is on the road and should be in Monday...
bike is rad
glad you all enjoy the two wheels of steel.
dexter, no worries, wasn't offended.
was thinking about attempting to open up the vent-holes inside of the bb shell and headtube as well, but would have proven too difficult for normal tools, esp. given the minor difference it would have actually made.
...And, here are some recent pics after I mounted up and fiddled with the tiny little brake in order to get it work... I'm not very happy with it.
Works fine, but just leaves NO room for a wheel out of true or anything else.
(Basically what I'm saying is, don't buy these demo brakes if you plan on running your wheel slammed and anything larger than a 2.0 tire. Mine is 51mm wide and clearly on the limit for these brake arms and they are set up TIGHT.) I'll be going back to my good ol' revenge brakes, I can predict that. Lando Calrissian (sp?) wish you could have given me a heads up on the low clearance on your molly with these brakes when I asked you about them, before I picked up a set... but no worries...
still waiting on my rims... well, and most of all, waiting for SPRING to show its face. But I'll probably be heading back towards Japan by the time it rolls around here, so either way, looking forward to just getting out.
oh and here's one just for fun.
Someone mentioned I should paint the bare steerer tube to keep it blacked out. But kind of pointless and probably going too far with it, as it would get jacked anytime I swapped the fork over to the DJ2... and I had a sticker in there before but it got shredded when I removed the stem... but I just put this one in there 'cuz it was funny, won't last long though I'm sure.
dexter, no worries, wasn't offended.
was thinking about attempting to open up the vent-holes inside of the bb shell and headtube as well, but would have proven too difficult for normal tools, esp. given the minor difference it would have actually made.
...And, here are some recent pics after I mounted up and fiddled with the tiny little brake in order to get it work... I'm not very happy with it.
Works fine, but just leaves NO room for a wheel out of true or anything else.
(Basically what I'm saying is, don't buy these demo brakes if you plan on running your wheel slammed and anything larger than a 2.0 tire. Mine is 51mm wide and clearly on the limit for these brake arms and they are set up TIGHT.) I'll be going back to my good ol' revenge brakes, I can predict that. Lando Calrissian (sp?) wish you could have given me a heads up on the low clearance on your molly with these brakes when I asked you about them, before I picked up a set... but no worries...
still waiting on my rims... well, and most of all, waiting for SPRING to show its face. But I'll probably be heading back towards Japan by the time it rolls around here, so either way, looking forward to just getting out.
oh and here's one just for fun.
Someone mentioned I should paint the bare steerer tube to keep it blacked out. But kind of pointless and probably going too far with it, as it would get jacked anytime I swapped the fork over to the DJ2... and I had a sticker in there before but it got shredded when I removed the stem... but I just put this one in there 'cuz it was funny, won't last long though I'm sure.
I ran Vulcans on my Molly with a Spec'd Rhythm in the rear and had plenty of clearence. The fatter tire you have in the back looks better but just letting you know.
Nice touch Satori. I have been getting back into the history behind Satori/Kensho. When I am riding I seem to meditate on this.
I'm running compounds with a 710sl which only allows me to go alittle more than 1/2 into the drops so I couldn't have help. (I don't remember seeing you ask about it) I have tons of clearance though. I'm hoping I can put a half link in, slam it and grind off the remaining dropout...that all depends on how big the KHE's are going to be.
I run a 710 with a half link and compounds; no problems but I use fly brakes...
yeah, I ran 710sl with half-link all last summer and could slam my wheel 100% with no probs... with the Revenge U-brake... had room to spare even, and was almost considering grinding the dropout slots forward for shorter stays...
I was actually avoiding the flys because they didn't have sealed cartridge bearings, but maybe I'll have to look again.
I remember Ben, who posted up an orange WCH, mentioned he had some clearance problems with the U-brake and rear tire as well, and had to pick up a different one. I haven't seen him post anywhere in quite awhile though.
Axis, nice touch with the meditation. Can help with a lot of things. I actually lived with Buddhist monks in the mountains of Japan (Koya-san) for a few weeks. But they pretty much just made me wake up before dawn everyday and scrub their floors, haha.
Satori - what made you ditch the Revenge brakes? They work great and have a ton of clearance.
Crazy story about the monks - not many people can say that!
Crazy story about the monks - not many people can say that!
I think you'd be surprised at how well they perform/hold up...