[SirChomps-a-Lot]

Rebuilding my monarch XX, everything is going well so far except I can't figure out how to remove this piece in the rebound knob assembly so I can replace the o-rings that seal that needle that engages the compression rod.

Anyone know how to remove this piece?

 

[CrabJoe StretchPants]

Check for a split style snap ring holding it in. Looks like a flat version of a split key ring that you have to peel out/off with a pick.

That's what held the banjo style lockout fitting on my Revelation XX fork, and swear I saw no mention of it in the manual. Had to look online to figure it out. Not sure if it's the same, but if it's no super obvious, that might be it. Post pics?

 

[CrabJoe StretchPants]

Found the original post/pics I found last time....

XLoc banjo fitting removal / installation

Explore this photo album by Morgan Fletcher on Flickr!

www.flickr.com

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

Haha yeah I remember the frustration finding that snap ring on the banjo fitting when I was rebuilding my fork a couple months ago. I don't _think_ there's a snap ring on this piece but I could be wrong.

I think this piece may accept an allen key, one seems to fit. I put as much torque on it as I dared but it didn't come loose. Since the bleed port cap threads into this piece with regular threads I think it's possible this piece reverse-threads into the rebound knob? It's also possible it's regular threads but with some gnarly threadlocker? Dang it SRAM, why do none of the technical manuals have this info in them?

I'm thinking I may try some gentle heat to see if anything loosens up.

btw here's pictures of the part in question.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

ooh here's a picture from bikeman, who are selling this whole replacement knob assembly. I believe it shows the part in question partially unthreaded from the rebound knob.

Crap it's definitely threaded but super hard to tell from that image if it's regular threads or reverse threads.

 

[CrabJoe StretchPants]

Very strange. Some heat may not be a bad idea, and if there is a hex head/drive in there, it seems like it would be it.

Almost goes without saying, but definitely use a square end allen (not ball end) and keep downward pressure when trying to break loose. I got a bit careless the other day tightening the bleed screw on my monarch (aluminum, t10 torx) and stripped it out completely. Luckily amazon had a tiny extractor set and full rebuild kit with new screw to me the next day....got lucky.

 

[CrabJoe StretchPants]

Looks like right hand threads to me. Lead in chamfer seems bigger at 3-4 o'clock than it does at 11 o'clock. If that makes sense.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

Very strange. Some heat may not be a bad idea, and if there is a hex head/drive in there, it seems like it would be it.

Almost goes without saying, but definitely use a square end allen (not ball end) and keep downward pressure when trying to break loose. I got a bit careless the other day tightening the bleed screw on my monarch (aluminum, t10 torx) and stripped it out completely. Luckily amazon had a tiny extractor set and full rebuild kit with new screw to me the next day....got lucky.

Heat on plastic? No...

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

it's all metal. I am a bit worried about melting the o-rings in there.. if I melt the o-rings that's a point of no return.

I guess the worst case scenario is $50 for a replacement knob assembly.

 

[CrabJoe StretchPants]

I wasnt thinking a blowtorch or anything high heat like that. Low heat in an oven or something for a bit of time to try to soften the thread locker up. It is all aluminum and likely Buna o-rings, so you should be good up to 250F or so.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

yusss, I got it y'all -- it's regular threaded, unscrews with a 2.5mm allen key.

The secret was hitting the knob with a heat gun plus putting enough torque into a 2.5mm allen key to just about snap the dang thing in half.

 

[SirChomps-a-Lot]

Yep I can help, I had that same problem. I had to disassemble the shock before I could get the knob back in. I believe that small ball you are referring to is the top of the compression needle, which the lockout mechanism pushes down via a cone shaped piece that extends from the knob. There is also a piece around that 'ball' which adjusts rebound and is pushed down by a cam on the back of the rebound knob.

I thought that if those pieces are pushed down by regular operation of the shock adjusters that you could just cram the rebound knob back into the shock body but I couldn't get it to go either. I had to disassemble the shock down to removing the seal head from the damper body, then the rebound knob went right on with no air or oil pressure in the shock. Then I bled and reassembled the shock as normal.

Still not 100% sure you have to disassemble and re-bleed the shock body just to get the rebound knob back on but I didn't want to try too hard to force anything, so that's what I did and everything is working now.