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monkey bars (construction question)

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
Greetings, as part of the transition from guest room back into play room, junior has requested monkey bars. I said yes, then evaluated the structure... which has been more of an adventure than I bargained for, but here we are.

- The room is in the basement.
- The monkey bars are going across the ceiling joists.
- The plan is to fasten two 2x12s across the ceiling joists (via structural screws)
- Clad that with 1/2" drywall
- Run two more 2x12s directly beneath the other two, and screw everything together.

My question is about the drywall. Will it hold up sandwiched between these two 2x12s? It's playing a part between two fairly high stress boards.

I've sketched some options. #1 is what I'd like to do. #2 is another possibility, but it bridges the envelope and will require a lot more drywall fiddling... and I suppose the edges won't be tightly sealed either.

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

A: joist
B: 2x4x12' - internal
C: drywall
D: 2x4x12' - external

monkey-bars-to-ceiling.jpg
 
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jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,558
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i did something quasi similar for a roof portion of my climbing wall i built. its hard to describe, i'll try to remember to take pictures when I get home. it is in my unfinished basement, so I was working with exposed joists and didn't have to faff with drywall.
 

jonKranked

Detective Dookie
Nov 10, 2005
85,558
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media blackout
basically what i did was install pieces of 2x4 the width of the roof panel I installed (which isn't very large) across the joists to help distribute the load when it's in use. i used screws. it's a small section, honestly maybe only 2' x 2', but i've never had any issues with it, and I'm over 200lbs.
 

Westy

the teste
Nov 22, 2002
54,225
20,003
Sleazattle
the lumber should distribute the load over the drywall fairly well and it would be in compression. Probably just wise to not go nuts with the ugga duggas when tightening the screws.

Think of it this way. You can double up a stack of drywall, 9' high. That bottom sheet is supporting 11,000 lbs.

If you have some scrap lumber or drywall this would be super easy to test out.
 

maxyedor

<b>TOOL PRO</b>
Oct 20, 2005
5,496
3,140
In the bathroom, fighting a battle
Either option will work just fine, but option A will be easier to make look not-shitty. Sealing the gaps around the 2x12 on option B is going to suck unless you just trim it out with some 1/4-round.

Why run the second 2x12 at all though? Just run the 1 up against the ceiling joists, place drywall on that and anchor monkey bars through the drywall. Hell, if the structural screws are going into the joists, skip the 2x12s all together and just use some 2x4 blocking between joists to prevent rocking.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
the lumber should distribute the load over the drywall fairly well and it would be in compression. Probably just wise to not go nuts with the ugga duggas when tightening the screws.

Think of it this way. You can double up a stack of drywall, 9' high. That bottom sheet is supporting 11,000 lbs.

If you have some scrap lumber or drywall this would be super easy to test out.
Oh, good call. Did not think to look up the specs on drywall… Or bother giving it a test with some scrap. Thanks for that. Will give it a go!
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
Either option will work just fine, but option A will be easier to make look not-shitty. Sealing the gaps around the 2x12 on option B is going to suck unless you just trim it out with some 1/4-round.

Why run the second 2x12 at all though? Just run the 1 up against the ceiling joists, place drywall on that and anchor monkey bars through the drywall. Hell, if the structural screws are going into the joists, skip the 2x12s all together and just use some 2x4 blocking between joists to prevent rocking.
Yeah, definitely agree on the A vs. B. B would definitely require some trim of some sort.

The purpose of the 2x12s is to attach the monkey bars at a rhythm/spacing that differs from that of the ceiling joists. It is for a kid, so I’m trying to get about 9 bars in a span of 13.5 ft.The other reason is I need the height to get down to the right level (below/at the wall level). And doing it as one long board makes it somewhat easier to level/shim. I can attach each end and fill in the middles. If it was individual blocking, each being independent would be much harder to get right I’d imagine. These ceiling joists are about 90 years old and no longer square or level across the span.
 

maxyedor

<b>TOOL PRO</b>
Oct 20, 2005
5,496
3,140
In the bathroom, fighting a battle
The purpose of the 2x12s is to attach the monkey bars at a rhythm/spacing that differs from that of the ceiling joists.
That's sorta what I figured, but I took your drawing to literally with the anchor bolts going through into the joists.

You mite look into some 8/4 Poplar instead of 2x12, it'll be a bit more expensive but far flatter and more stable than the 2x12 construction lumber. Shim it level, then add shims to all the the rest of the joists to level the entire ceiling, drywall it all as a nice smooth level surface, and attach the monkey bars through the drywall into the poplar backer at whatever spacing you want. No structural need for that external board unless you want unless the bars themselves need to be lowered, and they I'd use a decent poplar or similar board so it looks like something other than crap. The Poplar will also be "clear" so wo won't end up with a knot right exactly where you want a screw.
 

Changleen

Paranoid Member
Jan 9, 2004
14,335
2,448
Hypernormality
Can I suggest a simple trapeze? All the advantages of monkey bars but IMO more milage for fun. Mine is simply two M12 round eyelet bolts long enough to pass through the stud, with a great big square washer on the top and bolted down. Strong as all shit. Trapeze is two carabiners from the local chandler’s, along with some sailing rope in a tasteful colour (this stuff is rated at like 5 tonnes) and the drilled and smoothed nice hardwood handle from a rake I think it was, but whatever is strong and nice. It’s absolutely strong AF, 100kg adults can launch themselves at it and swing. It would take many times that. Kids do all kinds of crazy shit on it. I mostly use it for pull ups. This trapeze is a bit over adult head height so it can stay out all the time but we also have the same thing but kid chest height for Gymnastics practice and just as a swing, kids climb up and clip it in themselves, easy as.

576BD4A5-2EAB-4C2C-8BBC-7F7C8E68ECBB.jpeg
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
Can I suggest a simple trapeze? All the advantages of monkey bars but IMO more milage for fun. Mine is simply two M12 round eyelet bolts long enough to pass through the stud, with a great big square washer on the top and bolted down. Strong as all shit. Trapeze is two carabiners from the local chandler’s, along with some sailing rope in a tasteful colour (this stuff is rated at like 5 tonnes) and the drilled and smoothed nice hardwood handle from a rake I think it was, but whatever is strong and nice. It’s absolutely strong AF, 100kg adults can launch themselves at it and swing. It would take many times that. Kids do all kinds of crazy shit on it. I mostly use it for pull ups. This trapeze is a bit over adult head height so it can stay out all the time but we also have the same thing but kid chest height for Gymnastics practice and just as a swing, kids climb up and clip it in themselves, easy as.

View attachment 167315
That’s interesting and all… but the kid wants monkey bars! He has them at school and can only get to the third rung before falling off. So, that’s the plan. Might add something like that upstairs where the ceilings are much taller… or maybe in the basement too. Will see. Pull-up bar was next on my list.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
The nice thing about this setup is if he gets sick of them, I can unbolt them and put something else up there. Envious of your setup that looks like the studs are right behind your sheetrock. Mine are flying 6-8 inches above the sheetrock with all kinds of miscellany between them.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
That's sorta what I figured, but I took your drawing to literally with the anchor bolts going through into the joists.

You mite look into some 8/4 Poplar instead of 2x12, it'll be a bit more expensive but far flatter and more stable than the 2x12 construction lumber. Shim it level, then add shims to all the the rest of the joists to level the entire ceiling, drywall it all as a nice smooth level surface, and attach the monkey bars through the drywall into the poplar backer at whatever spacing you want. No structural need for that external board unless you want unless the bars themselves need to be lowered, and they I'd use a decent poplar or similar board so it looks like something other than crap. The Poplar will also be "clear" so wo won't end up with a knot right exactly where you want a screw.
Wish I had thought about the 8/4 lumber in place of 2x12s... I could have placed that in the ceiling and done less blocking (I think). I already have the lumber so I'll just make it work. I do need some additional height off the drywall as the bars are pretty shallow, so the 2x12 will be cool in the end. I miraculously managed to get some pretty dang straight ones from home depot. I couldn't believe it. I was fully prepared to go to the proper lumber store, but these will do the trick.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
The first set of 2x12s are up and solid as a rock with those structural screws! Will report back when I have the rest of it up.
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
Lights are back up and the floor is dust free! Any tricks on getting drywall compound dust off the floor? Took me about 90 minutes to get it all off, wiping and mopping the whole floor no less than 4 times only to have it dry and see more powder. Have to install the rope for him to climb up there on his own… will do that later today. We have already played soccer down there is morning. What fun! Thank you for the suggestions and moral support.

93CE43AB-8AA0-4336-91BC-371C14AE6E88.jpeg
FDBF1CB5-6565-4EEF-AB40-A855F31D63EF.jpeg
 

slyfink

Turbo Monkey
Sep 16, 2008
9,288
5,028
Ottawa, Canada
Lights are back up and the floor is dust free! Any tricks on getting drywall compound dust off the floor? Took me about 90 minutes to get it all off, wiping and mopping the whole floor no less than 4 times only to have it dry and see more powder. Have to install the rope for him to climb up there on his own… will do that later today. We have already played soccer down there is morning. What fun! Thank you for the suggestions and moral support.

View attachment 167941View attachment 167942
a) it looks great! what a nice space to have
b) looks like there's a natural "appui" (not sure what the would be in henglish) for him to run up to the wall and push back and up from - parkour style... who needs a rope?! :D
c) hire someone to do the cleaning?! :D
 

dump

Turbo Monkey
Oct 12, 2001
8,194
4,419
a) it looks great! what a nice space to have
b) looks like there's a natural "appui" (not sure what the would be in henglish) for him to run up to the wall and push back and up from - parkour style... who needs a rope?! :D
c) hire someone to do the cleaning?! :D
Ha! Thanks!

In time he will be running up the wall in no time no doubt, but not quite yet. He's just 6 and can do about 3 bars before falling off. I already got the damn rope and it's certainly overkill, but that's what he asked for and it's better than doing more wall drilling!

Yes, we do have someone for cleaning, but not at 10pm at night on a thursday, so it falls to me!