will it work? i mean if its the same consistency why not? what weight would be best if it does work?
motor oil for fork oil
- Thread starter metalMTB
- Start date
why not use some Mazola instead?
metalMTB said:
Try it and let us know. I think some gear oil would really help slow down the rebound on older boxxers for instance.....yeah you are probably on to something.
I wouldn't waste time with Motor oil, but Motorcycle fork oil is CHEAP compared to MTB fork oil.
It wont because it has diffewrent viscossities w/ different tempatures. Meaning it wont have a consistant feel.
Though a thin Transmission fluid would work because it has a constant viscossity.
Motorcycle fork oil is extreemy cheap compared to MTB oil.
Though a thin Transmission fluid would work because it has a constant viscossity.
Motorcycle fork oil is extreemy cheap compared to MTB oil.
Motor oil will foam in a suspension absorber. You can get a quart of moto fork oil from a moto shop for $6-8. That is cheap in compairison to the cost of your fork.
Just make sure you don't get motorcycle oil with seal swelling stuff in it for old leaky forks. They'll make your fork stickier than a sitcky thing.
I use 15w motorcycle fork oil in my 02 boxxer, and it still rebounds pretty fast. 20w or so would probably be ideal
sounds like that is coming from experience... :dancing:ChrisKring said:
I use microwaved vaseline.
Has anyone tried nuked KY Jelly? 
alright guys, since i don't want to screw up my dirt jumper i'm going to try the microwaved ky jelly in my fox 40. I have lots of ky laying around in my room. i'll keep ya guys posted
no no no! only use fresh KY from the tube!!!metalMTB said:
oh no! i just found this stuff in the trash can!! does this mean my 40 is weaksauce now???!?!
btw, i just found a crack in my demo 8...ah
btw, i just found a crack in my demo 8...ah
ya just went into the shop where i work and they are overnighting a new frameset to me. frame, shock, hub, headset. just for a crack in the ribcage. basically i had a frame shipped out to me within an hour and a half of finding the crack. Specialized rocks!
now i kinda decided against putting ky jelly in my fork. I think i'll just have to order some hella expensive fork oil from qbp...
now i kinda decided against putting ky jelly in my fork. I think i'll just have to order some hella expensive fork oil from qbp...
Bro, did you even read this thread? Walk down to the nearest moto shop and buy whatever synthetic fork oil they have there (Silkolene, Golden Spectro, PJs, etc.). It will be cheaper and better than bike-specific fork oil from QPB even at wholesale. Plus it comes in bigger containers.metalMTB said:
Ugh.......ohio said:
ohio, just let him get the MTB oil and pay 4x's as much for food coloring.
Why:mumble: when you can 
as he pays thru the nose for fancy labled oil.Some people are not quick on the pick up.
You can use ATF. Reading advice does wonders.
hold up. let's get some information here. what fork are you talking about? does it have separate damping chamber vs. lube chambers, e.g. manitou sherman? Manitou recommends 10W40 synthetic motor oil for the lube chambers at the bottom of the fork. I've also used 50 wt in those forks---3 yrs and fork works like new. For the damping chamber, always use some quality fork oil (or for open bath fork like marzocchi). I usually get golden spectro at a nearby motocross shop.
i'm just joking around guys....
the marzocchi guy told me that i need 10 weight oil. (just got an email a few minutes ago) and that should fix all my problems according to him
the marzocchi guy told me that i need 10 weight oil. (just got an email a few minutes ago) and that should fix all my problems according to him
no wonder Manitous leak like a sieve, motor oil can be hard on seals with all it's detergents and such. I'd stick with ATF in that case.frorider said:
I thought it was the other way around, ATF has detergents that make seals swell, motor oil is pretty much just oil. A backwoods trick to stop an engine from leaking is to pour a half quart of ATF into the crankcase with an oil change, the ATF will make the gasket material swell and stop leaking. It doesn't often work too well but it isn't supposed to harm the engine.zedro said:
ATF can cause some swelling, especially those purposely formulated to. Swelling isnt necessarily harmful, but i've heard that in the case of (some?) motor oils you can actually degrade the seals.Kornphlake said:
So today i decided to change my oil and i ut in some good ol' 10 W 30.... should i drain it down asap?
There are some transmission oils that change consistency at different temperatures just like engine oil does (ever noticed that in the winter when you start your car cold the gear leaver works a bit sluggish and slow? - for MT that is), yes its not as sensitive but still, I don't think its a great idea using anything else than full synthetic fork oil in bike shocks, and defo not engine oil that is suppose to have water-like consistency at the right temperature (that is over 100dgr C)
This entire thread = 
^^ It's 4 & a bit over a 1/2....and your username screams dys-rocka-function...
just sayin'.....
just sayin'.....
Okay, so i'm gonna drain it, thanks.
i'm a hippie and i put vegetable oil in my fork.
is that why the rebound went kaput this weekend?
You guys are gonna laugh but a few years back i bought an old pitbike to fix up. The original kawasaki forks were so noodley that i tried some spring spacers along with 30w motor oil and eventually tried some 85/140w differential oil
as fork oil and you know what?
It still sucked.
as fork oil and you know what?It still sucked.