MTB Gimmick Gadget Thread.
- Thread starter KenW449
- Start date
From Freeride Mag 2/17:
First value is for torsional stiffness, second for fore-aft stiffness (all values in Nm/°), third weight in grams. All 27.5 forks, 160-170 mm versions.
Rock Shox Lyrik RCT3 38.6/242.8/2083
DVO Diamond 32.9/230.4/2241
Formula Selva EX 31.9/214.8/2085
Öhlins RFX36 29.1/210.9/2046
Marzocchi 350 NCR Ti 28.7/190.7/2304
Fox 36 Float Factory 25.3/214.5/2044
Intend Edge 17.3/360.6/1945
First value is for torsional stiffness, second for fore-aft stiffness (all values in Nm/°), third weight in grams. All 27.5 forks, 160-170 mm versions.
Rock Shox Lyrik RCT3 38.6/242.8/2083
DVO Diamond 32.9/230.4/2241
Formula Selva EX 31.9/214.8/2085
Öhlins RFX36 29.1/210.9/2046
Marzocchi 350 NCR Ti 28.7/190.7/2304
Fox 36 Float Factory 25.3/214.5/2044
Intend Edge 17.3/360.6/1945
Funny, i was actually just found out about that today. I was looking at it, but for $1800, pass.Y U no E18?
Gee, just what I want, a lamp that goes into strobe mode when rocking thru a series of linking berms.
Definitely answering problems I don't have. I run two lights partially for redundancy, then there's the benefit that your helmet-light points ANYWHERE you look, not just 30 degrees left and right.
Tubeless sealant gauge? Yay or nay?
https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/the-milkit-tubeless-valve-system-makes-filling-checking-sealant-levels-a-cinch/
https://www.singletracks.com/blog/mtb-gear/the-milkit-tubeless-valve-system-makes-filling-checking-sealant-levels-a-cinch/
Nay, how do you use a pressure gauge?
Also it just seems like a shit idea. Rip the valve out and check the fluid depth with a piece of wire, I'm fat and don't care about weight so I just pour more in when the tire doesn't hold air for long.
Tubeless and sealant (it doesn't seal jack shit).
He must have never ridden on cactus riddled trails. The first three times i rode my bike, i got flat tires. Made the switch to TL and have had maybe 2 flats since. Neither have to do with the sealant. 1 the stem had come loose and was leaking air, 2 was a rim strike.
As I was riding my bike back from Interbike to my hotel, I happened to veer off the pavement. In doing so, I noticed a preponderance of tiny, tan, multipronged critters sticking into my tires, that I recall as a scourge of boyhood living in the desert.
Goat heads.
Stuck deep into my tires. Many, many goat heads.
I thanked Stan and rode on.
This past spring I had a rim strike and ended up with a pinched flat. I used half of the CO2 to inflate it and spun the wheel around until all the air had leaked out. The second half of the CO2 I had the holes facing the ground and shook the wheel trying to get it to coat. I then went to a hand pump and just let the holes down bottom until the sealant was done leaking and there was no more left in there. Then I just took it off and put in the tube and rode the rest of the year. The hole on the sidewall was less than 2 mm and didn't seal. The one on top was so small that it couldn't even put a spoke through it when I got home. I repaired the two holes permanently and put the tube back in. The sealant was new that spring.
-different story from a different ride several years ago-
I'm riding with the group of buddies and ended up getting a pinch flat on a downhill section. I pulled over and told my buddy to tell them that I'll be there in a couple minutes. I flipped the bike upside down popped quick release and unthread it from the frame. Pull the wheel out no problem since I don't have a clutch or anything on the derailleur, pull the tire over to the side and roll it right off. No issues at all, no levers needed. Pull out the spare tube put a little bit of air in it pulled the old one out, put the new one in, and seat that tire with bare hands the whole way around in about 3 seconds. Spend a CO2 on it, and I'm on my way. When I got to the bottom of the hill the other guys are standing there and said "I thought you got a flat". I said, I did, and they argued with me there's no way I changed it that quick! So when I got back to the truck I had to show them (for my own sake) that my tube had a pinch flat. Now? Now you need MX tire levers or wire cutters to remove a tire. That's why they didn't believe it was that quick.
So, moral of the story is that if I can pinch flat a tubeless tire or pinch flat a tube, why bother? Thorns? Never flatted from them around here. Tire slashes? Yep. But apparently Stans can't fix that for me when it's 2mm, so nevermind anything bigger.
-different story from a different ride several years ago-
I'm riding with the group of buddies and ended up getting a pinch flat on a downhill section. I pulled over and told my buddy to tell them that I'll be there in a couple minutes. I flipped the bike upside down popped quick release and unthread it from the frame. Pull the wheel out no problem since I don't have a clutch or anything on the derailleur, pull the tire over to the side and roll it right off. No issues at all, no levers needed. Pull out the spare tube put a little bit of air in it pulled the old one out, put the new one in, and seat that tire with bare hands the whole way around in about 3 seconds. Spend a CO2 on it, and I'm on my way. When I got to the bottom of the hill the other guys are standing there and said "I thought you got a flat". I said, I did, and they argued with me there's no way I changed it that quick! So when I got back to the truck I had to show them (for my own sake) that my tube had a pinch flat. Now? Now you need MX tire levers or wire cutters to remove a tire. That's why they didn't believe it was that quick.
So, moral of the story is that if I can pinch flat a tubeless tire or pinch flat a tube, why bother? Thorns? Never flatted from them around here. Tire slashes? Yep. But apparently Stans can't fix that for me when it's 2mm, so nevermind anything bigger.
I'm kindof in the same boat as you. We don't have much in the way of thorns. Our principal method for flats around here is pinch flats on the east coast rox (tm).
I agree that fixing a flat tube can be quicker than fixing a tubeless flat. However, the biggest difference I have found is that I get far fewer flats with tubeless. As in, I'd get a flat every other ride when I rode with tubes. Now I get one a season. Maybe. Since switching to DD casing on my rear wheel, I got even less than that.
Also, if I ascertain that my flat is indeed a pinch flat (which is usually pretty quick, and a function of how fast the air came out), I don't bother with trying to get it to seal, and go straight to putting a tube in. I don't use foam inserts, so getting the tire off the bead, the valve out of the rim, and the tube in, doesn't really require that much more effort & time.
So all in all, I'm still going to say that tubeless is vastly superior. That said, it may be location-specific. But I still haven't ridden in a location that I'd prefer tubes.
How does tubeless affect whether or not you need to use a tire lever? It's the same rim and bead. I very rarely get a front flat so a lot of times I run a tube up front and tubeless in the rear to make swapping tires faster. Every time I run a tube in the rear I pay for it quickly, while a cut tire that sealant won't seal up is a rare occurrence.
I get a rear flat on a tubeless set-up on average once per year. If it's in the middle of a ride and won't seal itself I throw a tube in there until I get back home. Once home I remove the tire, find the hole and clean the area well, then superglue a small piece of innertube to cover the hole. Refill with sealant, hit it with the compressor pump, spin the wheel a bit, and it's good as new. I don't really understand all the issues people have with tubeless.
The worst (and possibly single) problem I've ever had with tubeless was that time when some fucktard (me) tightened the tubeless valve like crazy and I just couldn't remove the valve from the rim with my finger to put on a tube. That was not a good day.
I will try the superglue patch for pinched/sliced tubeless tires. that's a good tip.
I've got about 8 rides on a plugged rear tire, right in the middle of the (quickly diminishing) center treads. It sure looks like it will fall out from a skid, but it hasn't. Plugs are definitely worth carrying given the $6 cost.
I've got about 8 rides on a plugged rear tire, right in the middle of the (quickly diminishing) center treads. It sure looks like it will fall out from a skid, but it hasn't. Plugs are definitely worth carrying given the $6 cost.
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if you are having trouble getting the valve itself to seal with the rim, a 1/2" x 1/2" square of cut inner tube with a hole in the middle, slid over the stem tends to address things. sometimes you need 2.
Pro tip: use a soldering iron to cut the hole in the rim strip or 'gasket'. (Or a heated Phillips)
On longer rides I carry a Leatherman multi tool which has pliers for this kind of crap.
That's what I'm doing too...now.
I use something similar to this, my soldering irons are for soldering, or soddermizing or whatever you guys call it.I use something similar to this....
-Brett
I've got a tiny keychain Leatherman thing in my pack, because most multi-tools don't have pliers or a knife. I'd say the number one reason people borrow it is to undo the Presta valve nuts that have been overtightened. The wire cutter is a bit shit though, if I could find a version with a better one I'd buy it.
Happened to me a few days ago...
This is the problem - you saved 40 grams of "rotational mass" but added a pound of weight to your ride. Lol
Ps. Not making fun of you. Just that I hear this all the time.
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If sealant doesn't seal, then I'm curious how it's user error?
Your sealant wasn't fresh enough?
So the once a year you flat, the sealant doesn't seal? BRILLIANT! The product sounds superior to those old fangled tubes!
The sealant was put in a month prior. According to Stan I should be good to go.