Anyone else remember "Yes Tubes!"
Can't find it on the way back machine...
Can't find it on the way back machine...
MTB Gimmick Gadget Thread.
- Thread starter KenW449
- Start date
Since tubeless is what The Industry is aiming for, the tolerances for rim and tire fit has become a shit-ton tighter. My old Syncros DS32's and any tire combo could be put on or taken off without levers. Ever. They fit loose. Now half the tire/rim combos need levers to MOUNT tires. That's the difference.
Anyone remember Trek Matrix rims?
They were about 25-30 years ago.
Tougher to put on and take off tires than ANYTHING being made today.
They were about 25-30 years ago.
Tougher to put on and take off tires than ANYTHING being made today.
you clearly need more of Stan's magic goo.
seriously though, how long had the bottle been sitting around? you have to shake it first too
How does using tubes make that easier now then? *edit* not having a go - run whatever you want. I've seen guys running tubes puncture new ones putting them in as well.
Does Stan have any particles in it btw? Peatys has that glitter stuff, but the only bottle I used of that was dodgy or something and wouldn't seal/cure. The e.13 stuff has lumps of something in it and has been flawless for me so far. I've even had the commuter bike get a puncture with an audible hiss, roll a few revolutions and seal up and get me home with plenty of pressure still in it.
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Ahhhh my eyes, I just did an image search for Oliver's Yes Tubes with Safe Search turned off, sooooo much tranny was seen!
I think that was worse than Goatse, why was Charlie Sheen in to that stuff?!!!
Seems Foss tubes are still going, they even have Magnetized hubs, must be Taiwanese for steel freehub-
http://foss.com.tw/hub.html
I think that was worse than Goatse, why was Charlie Sheen in to that stuff?!!!
Seems Foss tubes are still going, they even have Magnetized hubs, must be Taiwanese for steel freehub-
http://foss.com.tw/hub.html
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It's a brand new bottle. I used 3 cups instead of 2 cause I sometimes loose some trying to seat the tire. As far as shaking it, I did that. I also kept the bottle upside down.
Them and Bontrager Mustang rims. That's where tubeless is at in my book. Fitting Specialized Purgatory rims on Spank Race 33's was very easy and no crow bar was needed.
It was easier in the past I admit. But today's standards make it a pain in the ass no matter if you run tubes or not. But why spend $17 for sealant, $5-30 for tape, $100-200 on "cores" to stop..... What a standard tubeless kit can't. Or spend $5-7 for a tube and $2 for a repair kit.
One of my buddies used Stan's and flats every single ride. He walks out cause he doesn't want to hold us up. Granted, it's a fat bike, but whatever. Our other riding buddy Eric swears up and down that Stan's sucks, and Orange seal is the only way to go. Brian insists that if you got a flat with Stan's you're using it wrong. How the fuck could you use it wrong? Could you use anything else wrong like a tube?
I tried it and I still got flats. There's days where I put pressure in the tires before a ride, come home and the tires are still full. Yet the next day I'd go out in the garage and the bike is sitting on its rim. There aren't any obvious leaks or anything. So I asked Brian, the guy who swears by Stan's, and he said yeah that happens all the time to him. Wtf?
It's obviously not perfect and it's been out for 15 years. This is definitely paid for by The Industry™.
Ugh, yeah, I've needed a pliers or blade twice lately on recent rides, so looking for a tiny and light solution. 
i use an awl.I use something similar to this, my soldering irons are for soldering, or soddermizing or whatever you guys call it.
https://www.wolftoothcomponents.com/products/pack-pliersUgh, yeah, I've needed a pliers or blade twice lately on recent rides, so looking for a tiny and light solution.
I have gotten one flat in three years, and it was because I let the sealant dry up.
I ride a lot.
I had one of those on my Joker. Gave it to LBS a year or so ago...
I put in two ounces and every couple of years I might check and add some more... Used to spend a lot of time patching tubes...
I don't think those will help with a stuck presta valve nut, though. Maybe I am missing something?Is it the hole between the chain link holder?
Hunh, whaddya know, it is that. I have one, and never thought to look.
I'm using a Gerber Dime keychain tool for that stuff. My old Leatherman Squirt was better quality, but it went missing somehow and I can't find one to replace it, so the Gerber it is.Ugh, yeah, I've needed a pliers or blade twice lately on recent rides, so looking for a tiny and light solution.
It is a pretty decent tool. Helps with spare master links storage, too.
Idk wtf your friends are doing but none of that has ever happened to me without an immediately identifiable root cause that was easy to remedy and not deal with again.
Also - since going tubeless I've gotten 2 flats. First was a small cut in the tire and there wasn't enough sealant to close it. Second was because I never properly patched the cut from the first flat.
I believe I have had one flat since tubeless and that was dried up sealant. This includes Windrock xc and dh on my trail bike. No real complaints other than I would like it to last longer.
-Brett
-Brett
I rode about 12 miles downhill, traversing a creek too many times to count with a 4mm hole in my rear Maxxis HR2 tubeless tire. The cheap Chinese sealant I'm using squirted maybe once every three miles, whenever I hit a rock with that exact patch of the tire. I stopped to put a tire plug and pump it up at the end of the trail, and it still held 16 psi from the original 29 I had put in it that morning.
It also held up with that very tire plug for the rest of our trip to Salta, with over 200 extra miles of trails on its its shoulders..
I'm not going back to tubes again. I even converted my wife's Trek Navigator to tubeless, since she has the ability to find every fucking thorn in her path. And I also converted my son's Scott Voltage 16, just for the bling factor
It also held up with that very tire plug for the rest of our trip to Salta, with over 200 extra miles of trails on its its shoulders..
I'm not going back to tubes again. I even converted my wife's Trek Navigator to tubeless, since she has the ability to find every fucking thorn in her path. And I also converted my son's Scott Voltage 16, just for the bling factor
While we're at it... Ive ridden Pisgah many days, Quebec Rox, Bromont Rox all without a flat (tubeless).
Maybe I'm doing it wrong (probably).
Only tire issue I've had lately over the last 3ish years, is back in July when somehow the minion on the rear wheel of my trail bike got savagely stretched to one side after brapping a turn three too many times. No leakage though.
Maybe I'm doing it wrong (probably).
Only tire issue I've had lately over the last 3ish years, is back in July when somehow the minion on the rear wheel of my trail bike got savagely stretched to one side after brapping a turn three too many times. No leakage though.
I've been having more issues since installing CushCore, I have to run more sealant as after it has coated the foam you seem to have less to do the sealing.
Holes in the side wall don't seem to heal as well as running no noodle, Stan's may work better than the Tyre Juice that I use......dunno?
Stan's goes off too quick where I live and Tyre Juice makes no boogers, so you just pour more in and keep riding until the tire is dead.
Holes in the side wall don't seem to heal as well as running no noodle, Stan's may work better than the Tyre Juice that I use......dunno?
Stan's goes off too quick where I live and Tyre Juice makes no boogers, so you just pour more in and keep riding until the tire is dead.
I've gotten too brazen with tubeless, got a couple flats due to sharp rocks/pinch flat this year, still was able to plug the tire on one, but had to walk out on the other because I had dumped my extra tube over time and didn't realize I wasn't even carrying one anymore. But it's saved my butt many more times than any issues that have been caused. I've never gotten a flat in the winter on my tubeless setup there.
While we're at it... Ive ridden Pisgah many days, Quebec Rox, Bromont Rox all without a flat (tubeless).
Maybe I'm doing it wrong (probably).
Only tire issue I've had lately over the last 3ish years, is back in July when somehow the minion on the rear wheel of my trail bike got savagely stretched to one side after brapping a turn three too many times. No leakage though.
This seems oddly common with DHR2s and HR2s. Every single person I ride with had done this to one or the other of those tires. I have zero science to back up my claims, but there's something funky with those things.
As long as we're all bragging about our tubelss tire longevity, 10+ years of riding tubeless and I've only managed to get a couple flats, most recent have been 1 from a broken valve stem, one from a gash about 4" long in the sidewall. Every time I take a roached out tire off, the interior has about a million cactus thorns stuck though it, and there's always little wet spots on the outside of my tires from post-puncture seepage, but I've never had to stop and add air as a result of punctures. I use Trucker Co sealant because it's cheap and being local I get it next day.
My main issue with tubeless tire dependability is when hauling ass through or gapping into rock gardens. That really isn’t a user/install/maintenance error unless you think picking your way through sharp rocks is fun.
I’m probably going to try a noodle in the rear tire soon.
I really don’t want to have to pedal a DH casing and Maxxis FR tube uphill lol. I never flatted that combo through the tread; side of tube snakebite pinch from running 18psi, I did.
I’m probably going to try a noodle in the rear tire soon.
I really don’t want to have to pedal a DH casing and Maxxis FR tube uphill lol. I never flatted that combo through the tread; side of tube snakebite pinch from running 18psi, I did.
I'm back on tubes....again. On every new bike I build, I invariably end up back on tubes in less than a year. Multiple burps and slashes later, I just get tired of standing in the middle of the woods with a fucked up bike, covered in bike jizz. The first few times were fun, but it has since lost its charm. Keep in mind I generally run high pressures with tubeless. Nevertheless, cornering like I have a pair will burp just about anything at some point and riding trails that have bumps in them eventually will ding up the rim and prevent a positive seal.
Now, I run the NueTech Tubliss setup on my dirt bikes, which Schwalbe has brazenly stolen the design of (I hope they get their asses sued off for that), and that has given me no issues over several years and thousands of miles of dirt and rocks.
I have ideas for ways to solve this. Anyone feel like bankrolling me?
Now, I run the NueTech Tubliss setup on my dirt bikes, which Schwalbe has brazenly stolen the design of (I hope they get their asses sued off for that), and that has given me no issues over several years and thousands of miles of dirt and rocks.
I have ideas for ways to solve this. Anyone feel like bankrolling me?
have a set in the mail as I type!
I don't know how you ride, but cuchcore may help. Since its so damn hard to seat, the tire shouldn't be able to unseat and burb. Theoretically.
You are running too much pressure, all the cool people are running 8psi now.
Normal terrain here. And yes I think there should be some technological advancement in tire inflation. Just like the suspension and frame design which is leaps and bounds ahead of what I was riding a decade ago.
My new trail bike is better in every other way than my old DH bike.
My new trail bike is better in every other way than my old DH bike.
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I generally don’t have major burp or rim damage issues if my pressure is above 28 in the rear.
Right now it’s a tossup between just using a DH casing Maxxis set up tubeless for trail riding (in the rear) vs a double down plus an insert. Seems like the weight would be the same.
Right now it’s a tossup between just using a DH casing Maxxis set up tubeless for trail riding (in the rear) vs a double down plus an insert. Seems like the weight would be the same.
In particular, an update to the geometry and location of the bead hook to be inset further down inside the rim to decouple the seal from most rim dents would be a prudent thing to do.