[Transcend]

Check out this week's article. This week, why your PS sucks and how you can get better results. Next week we'll cover what high end gear can do to help.

http://content.ridemonkey.com/blogs/blog/20081125/how_to_take_better_mtb_photos___part_1_-121.html

 

[Whoops]

Request for next week...?

How to get the best results from your Nikon D70?

 

[Transcend]

Next week will be covering SLRs, off camera flash and general techniques & guidelines that work well for MTB and sports in general.

I use all Canon gear, so can't really help with anything specific to nikon.

 

[blue]

lol@the ps on teh lens hood

 

[Transcend]

lol@the ps on teh lens hood

We're corporate now at RM.

 

[DiRt DeViL]

Please include paning, can't figure it out.

 

[djjohnr]

Nikon shooter here. What specifically do you want to do better with your D70?

 

[PatBranch]

Request for next week...?

How to get the best results from your Nikon D70?

Just read the manual over and over.

 

[Transcend]

Manuals are useless. Get a good book and learn the basics of using an SLR. Metering modes, exposure, Depth of Field, how different styles of lenses effect the above things.

Then learn to use these theories on your camera.

 

[PatBranch]

Well, knowing that basic stuff, the manual will help a lot with camera specifics...

 

[djjohnr]

Manuals are useless. Get a good book and learn the basics of using an SLR. Metering modes, exposure, Depth of Field, how different styles of lenses effect the above things.

Then learn to use these theories on your camera.

Understanding the basics of photography is highly important and should be your first step in photography. However manuals are definitely not useless. A photography book won't tell you that FV lock is set by your function button when a flash is activated on a D200 (or even what FV lock is), or how exposure compensation adjustments aren't reflected well in Nikon matrix metering.

 

[Transcend]

The canon and nikon manuals I have seen (and currently own) are all so unclear it is absurd. Most of the time they will tell you how to set something and not what it does. It's pretty ridiculous.

There are a few books however (missing manual i think?) that do explain these features and settings very well.

 

[slothy]

great stuff looking forward to this, anyone recommend some cheap off camera flashguns...?
I just want to experiment with a wireless trigger so don't want to spend too much, its just a bit of fun. I saw a bower one on ebay but research is pointing me towards a Vivitar 285HV which are about 120 dollars. I dont really want to spend that much .

 

[Transcend]

I have about 4 Vivitar 285HV units and can recommend them. Sunpak also has some great inexpensive models. For on camera stick to your camera brand, as they are guaranteed safe with trigger voltages ad you know they will work best with the TTl system. The nikon TTl system is fantastic, canon's...not so much.

You want to make sure whatever you choose has full manual capabilities and is not limited to TTL or Thyristor only. Most flashes under $100 will be very limited, though there are exceptions.

 

[slothy]

Ok I have canon 450D, thats good advice about the manual feature, Thanks. I actually presumed they would all have that.

 

[djjohnr]

The canon and nikon manuals I have seen (and currently own) are all so unclear it is absurd. Most of the time they will tell you how to set something and not what it does. It's pretty ridiculous.

There are a few books however (missing manual i think?) that do explain these features and settings very well.

Yeah, Nikon manuals aren't great about telling you HOW it does things on the back-end.

 

[WhiteRavenKS]

canon manuals are pretty good at explaining how it does things in the back end.

 

[WhoRyder]

one word.....

GOOGLE.....

you can find any answer, even videos on youtube on how to shoot different scenes.

my weakness is shooing flashless in dark areas....

Also... Learn to shoot the way YOU want to shoot, ever photographer shoots differently... have fun, learn and enjoy!

Also, always shoot RAW, not Jpegs.

 

[ianjenn]

Can you please fill me in on how to use a PHASE ONE P65 properly for sports use?

About the RAW shooting, it works good if you have the time to convert in lightroom, PS ect. but if you are shooting like 1000-2000 images it can be hard.

UNDERSTANDING EXPOSURE by Bryan Peterson is a good book.... I think.

 

[WhoRyder]

About the RAW shooting, it works good if you have the time to convert in lightroom, PS ect. but if you are shooting like 1000-2000 images it can be hard.

Agreed, if you have time to convert, then feel free, i use Photoshop CS3 to batch process the images i choose. I'm in no way a pro at this, i'm learning as well.

Here are a few samples of my work:

Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:11:01 14:40:57
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 65.0mm
CCD Width: 3.82mm
Exposure Time: 0.0040 s (1/250)
Aperture: f/5.0
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Manual
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)
(i think if i had a fasted lens i would have had some good Bokeh with this image)

Another

Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:10:26 01:05:12
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 122.0mm
CCD Width: 3.82mm
Exposure Time: 0.0040 s (1/250)
Aperture: f/7.1
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual
(same thing, i think a little more Bokeh would have made this pic GREAT)

Off Shoe Flash (still trying to get the hang of it)

Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:11:01 14:30:07
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 35.0mm
CCD Width: 5.72mm
Exposure Time: 0.0031 s (1/320)
Aperture: f/3.5
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Manual
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)

CITY

Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:11:26 11:21:32
Flash Used: No
Focal Length: 40.0mm
CCD Width: 3.82mm
Exposure Time: 0.0003 s (1/3200)
Aperture: f/4.0
ISO equiv: 200
White Balance: Manual
Exposure: aperture priority (semi-auto)

Here's one of my Wife with my Prime Lens (Canon 50mm f/1.4 Lens)

Camera Make: Canon
Camera Model: Canon EOS 40D
Image Date: 2008:11:22 22:41:30
Flash Used: Yes (Manual)
Focal Length: 50.0mm
CCD Width: 5.72mm
Exposure Time: 0.200 s (1/5)
Aperture: f/2.5
ISO equiv: 500
White Balance: Auto
Metering Mode: Matrix
Exposure: Manual
Exposure Mode: Manual

Again, i'm learning, and trying to get much much better, and i'm investing on some new GLASS.

This is what i shoot with:

Canon 40D
17-40mm f/4 L
50mm f/1.4
Canon Speedlight 580ex II
Canon Speedlight 430EX
CyberCync Remote Transmitter and Receiver for wireless.

Picking up a Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 IS in January 2009.

Definately looking forward to the next article, i can use a some more leaning..

 

[1000-Oaks]

The canon and nikon manuals I have seen (and currently own) are all so unclear it is absurd. Most of the time they will tell you how to set something and not what it does. It's pretty ridiculous.

There are a few books however (missing manual i think?) that do explain these features and settings very well.

The manuals for pro bodies are probably written for pros who don't need explainations, and just want to know how to set XYZ. Not too many novices buying 1-series Canons. The entry and pro-sumer bodies often come with a second manual that explains the various functions for those who don't already know. At least that's been my experience anyway.

 

[1000-Oaks]

Can you please fill me in on how to use a PHASE ONE P65 properly for sports use?

:biggrin:

 

[manhattanprjkt83]

Fraser, great article something like this needed stickied for folks... and i have to second your recommendation for the g series cameras from cannon they have amazing control for a pretty good price and the sensor they use really puts out a clear image...i honestly believe this is the best point and shoot for an mtb-er that wants to get more quality out of his/her images...

if they could get the size of this camera down a bit it would be incredible

check out the clarity of this photo shot with a g9 on a recent trip to Australia, not mtb you get the idea.

 

[djjohnr]

How's the shutter lag on the G10?

 

[WhoRyder]

There is another bad boy in the market which i had before selling it for a new dSLR lens....

The Panny Lumix LX3...

It comes with a super wide angle lens @ 24mm, and has an f stop @ 2.0... And shoots hidef video:

http://vimeo.com/2076506

and here are a few shots with the Lumix.

IMO the Lumix is the better bang for the buck. It shoots hidef video, and shoots a few steps down from the G10.

The image Quality is great with the Leica Lens attached to the Lumix....

THERE ARE OPTIONS!

Here's a link of the pics i took with the LUMIX (while i owned it):

http://tufinophotos.smugmug.com/Panasonic Lumix LX3

 

[Transcend]

The problem with the lumix is that it has only half the focal length in optical zoom (2.5x vs 5.0x), and is wider to begin with. Great camera, but not as versatile. This means the Lumix you get about 24-60mm range and on the Canon you get 28-140. Seeing as I was covering sports usage, the canon really gets the nod with over twice the reach which is crucial for shooting sports.

Also has a lower MP count by about 30%. Usually I am not one to go on about that, but 11mp vs 14.7mp is a fairly big difference, especially with no real reach on the Lumix. Cropping is where a higher MP value becomes important.

The G10 shoots to 1/4000th of a second, the Lumix only 1/2000. Again, pretty crucial for sports and action.

The HD video is nice (I had a Canon TX1 which did full 1080p). The problem with that is that all CCD sensors suck balls for video. If you see flare or bright lights (like off sunglasses for example), you will get huge pink vertical lines in the video. It's just a function of the sensor type.

The lumix is a fair bit lighter and a tiny bit smaller however.

If you already have Canon gear, it's a no brainer as you can use your canon flash and accessories with it. I used my G9 with some PWs and Elinchrom Rangers just or kicks and it worked great. $400 camera, $4000 lights.

I did much research on this when i was looking, and camera crap is about the only thing I keep up to date on as it's how I pay the bills.

 

[WhiteRavenKS]

when have you ever shot over 1/2000th though?

 

[Transcend]

when have you ever shot over 1/2000th though?

Usually when i break out my 70-200 or 300 in bright sunshine. I try to keep things at F/5.6 or below. When I use my 300 I am usually above 1/2000 if it's sunny.

The shot below is at 1/2500 @ 420mm, F/5.6

 

[WhoRyder]

I agree with everything you said about the Lumix LX3.... i did my research too... but never tested it for Sports at all....

For sports i just shoot with my 40D, soon to be a full frame body though... since everyone's going ape sh!t for the Canon 5D MKII, i can get me a nice deal on the Regular full Frame 5D...

I'm still learning and want to learn more... looking forward to learning and posting my progress.... so far i have everything right, the only thing i don't have is off shoe flash usage, and low light shooting....


QQ, Tran.....

i'm picking up the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 in January... do i need the IS or no? with the IS the lens goes for a couple hundred bucks more..... i'm going going to shoot sports and sometimes people...

 

[1000-Oaks]

You can really only use IS for static stuff, won't help at all for action. And the IS version is a hair softer than the non-IS model, though still fantastic. I haven't tried the new Tamron 70-200 or the Sigma 70-200, but I do have the Sig 120-300 and it's great. So check into those if you want to save some coin.

(The new Sigma 50mm 1.4 is great BTW, far better than the harsh-bokeh Canon 50mm 1.4 I used to have.)

 

[Transcend]

I have the IS switched off on all of my IS lenses, except the 300 2.8 if i have to shoot at slow shutter speeds. Even then, it only helps with handshake (heavy, longs lens). As mentioned IS is useless for sports, kills your batteries faster and adds significant weight and cost.

 

[WhoRyder]

Thank You, again!

QQ, do you shoot wide then Crop, or do you shoot to fit the rider on the frame? do yo use a Full Frame Sensor camera? Which kind if so?

You take some amazing shots... looking to be at your skill set in the future!

 

[boogenman]

great stuff here, can't wait to read more.

 

[WhoRyder]

Tran, what do you think of these images (i know their not MTB pics, but this is a way for me to practice)

1.

2.

3.

4. (sunset in NYC)

5.

6. (gotta thank my wife for being a trooper with me in the COLD)

7. (Sunset)

 

[RideRMB]

#1 is the best in my book. I'm no photog but the third one would be better if the lights could be sharper, but I don't know if that's possible.

 

[djjohnr]

i'm picking up the Canon 70-200mm f/2.8 in January... do i need the IS or no? with the IS the lens goes for a couple hundred bucks more..... i'm going going to shoot sports and sometimes people...

You don't need IS for sports, your shutter speed won't usually drop low enough. For shooting people it's very nice to have though. When you're shooting indoors in low light (like a wedding ceremony) the ability to shoot at 1/60 instead of 1/250 is huge.

 

[Whoops]

Next week will be covering SLRs, off camera flash and general techniques & guidelines that work well for MTB and sports in general.

I use all Canon gear, so can't really help with anything specific to nikon.

Sweet. Look forward to it.

Mainly interested in coping with different light situations - especially when it's overcast.

Thanks

 

[ianjenn]

You don't need IS for sports, your shutter speed won't usually drop low enough. For shooting people it's very nice to have though. When you're shooting indoors in low light (like a wedding ceremony) the ability to shoot at 1/60 instead of 1/250 is huge.

Mode 2 at 200MM while using 1/100th makes the extra $400 worth it!

 

[Transcend]

Mode 2 at 200MM while using 1/100th makes the extra $400 worth it!

Taking a few hours to practice panning will save you $400, get you a lighter lens and longer battery life. Mode 2 (pan mode) is pretty useless, even at 300mm.

At 400mm+ on a 2.8 supertele, Mode 2 IS starts to come in handy due to the weight that can make the lens jitter and wobble. A monopod can cup this out completely though. Although, I wouldn't use a monopod on a 70-200.

I have pretty shaky hands, and can smoothly pan with my 300mm 2.8 down to about 1/40th with mode 2 off. I have my selector taped to off so that it doesn't kick in accidentally (try panning in mode 1 to see why that sucks, ha).

I actually find it a bit annoying due to the way the IS can suddenly stop tracking and jump back to center.

 

[davet]

It's articles like this that make me think the internet is good for more than just pictures of nekkid girls. Thanks Fraser, looking forward to the next installment