Yeah the fox has been good so far and been abused...I'll look to swap stuff for sure but as it sits that fox post has been handed it's ass. (See what I did there lol)951evo looks sick. Just needs an AXS dropper to tidy shlt up
They still make 'em, was pretty much the only thing I could find with a leather cover and had some decent height to clear an E-Virb dropper, couldn't stand the tap tap tap noise from my previous seat as it hit the head of the post.I had one of those brown flite saddles back in ‘91!
Updated.Canyon have today released the Spectral CF8 Mullet
Looks like a ripper all mountain bike.
also, you don’t have the nukeproof mega 297 or giga 297 on your list
Hmmm, I honestly can't recall. I don't think so, but if I did it was no more than 5mm. But I did make the fork a little bit softer (like 18% sag instead of 15%). I wouldn't associate that change with the mullet setup per say, more to get quicker cornering. Maybe that's what SC is trying to say? Tweak bike setup to get more weight on front to get that tighter cornering feel that people are looking for in a mullet.@Andeh , did you find you needed to drop your bar height at all when you switched from the Smash to the MT to move more weight onto the front wheel? Trying to figure out if what I'm feeling is a mullet thing (what Santa Cruz suggests) or a Bronson thing.
They talk about the lower axle height of the rear wheel shifting weight rearward -Hmmm, I honestly can't recall. I don't think so, but if I did it was no more than 5mm. But I did make the fork a little bit softer (like 18% sag instead of 15%). I wouldn't associate that change with the mullet setup per say, more to get quicker cornering. Maybe that's what SC is trying to say? Tweak bike setup to get more weight on front to get that tighter cornering feel that people are looking for in a mullet.
Higher than what?Yeah, that's just nonsense IMO. I never once have thought, "hmmm this bike would handle better with a higher BB!" lol
Higher BB, no, but higher position to get more grip on the front wheel from the geo change yes.Yeah, that's just nonsense IMO. I never once have thought, "hmmm this bike would handle better with a higher BB!" lol
The theory about having the lower axle lower than the BB was my theory for a while to explain why my Force 297 was so much fun and easy to manual, bunny and such. Until I decided to buy a Race BMX (20") to complement my Cuiser (24"). For those not familiar with Race BMX, surprisingly, whether you have 20 or 24" wheels the BB height, TT, all angles are identical. CS are usually few mm longer on the 24" version but that is all. With a BB height identical it places it much higher compared to the wheel axles on the 20" while it is below wheel axle on the 24". Following the BB/Rear Axle theory it was obvious that the BMX would be super easy to manual compared to the 24" ... and it wasn't ! Even if the BMX has slightly shorter stays which is another well accepted attribute which should help with manuals and playfulness.They talk about the lower axle height of the rear wheel shifting weight rearward -
I've been riding 29ers for a while- what will feel different with MX? Any setup tips?
Trials lads call it wheel switching.I don’t really know the name for it, but placing your front wheel on an obstacle (tree, rock, alcoholic bum) and thrusting the rear of the bike up and over said obstacle.
from what little I know on geo and from riding a lot of BMX, I find BB height affects more spinning and leaning the bike while bar height and front center stuff like bar angle, spacers etc is your leverage for hops and manuals. Obvs thats super simplyfying, bar to BB distance and BB height to bar height etc is all important I find, and very personal preference and depends on riding style.The theory about having the lower axle lower than the BB was my theory for a while to explain why my Force 297 was so much fun and easy to manual, bunny and such. Until I decided to buy a Race BMX (20") to complement my Cuiser (24"). For those not familiar with Race BMX, surprisingly, whether you have 20 or 24" wheels the BB height, TT, all angles are identical. CS are usually few mm longer on the 24" version but that is all. With a BB height identical it places it much higher compared to the wheel axles on the 20" while it is below wheel axle on the 24". Following the BB/Rear Axle theory it was obvious that the BMX would be super easy to manual compared to the 24" ... and it wasn't ! Even if the BMX has slightly shorter stays which is another well accepted attribute which should help with manuals and playfulness.
Since, I decided to measure Bar height and realized that it is higher on my cruiser than on my BMX. So my new theory to explain why mullets are fun is because it drops the BB while keeping a high stack height. Way too often stack height is kept as low as possible even on bigger bikes, my 2019 Force (27.5) was zero fun and horrible to manual, and going with 4cm of spacers under the stem is a sin I am not willing to commit.
Your theory about Front/Back weight bias is probably what explains everything and bar position is seemingly what has the biggest impact on weight shift, more than CS or BB/Axle position which is a bit of a shock to me to be fair.
For the sake of "science" I need to put my current bike in full 29er while keeping BB/Bar height constant and see if it keeps the behaviour I appreciate. Also since the new Force Carbon won't have a flip chip, MX won't be an option so I want to know if I can live with it before having it delivered.
Actually, the BB sits higher in relation to the rear axle when compared to the pure 29" builds. One of the most common objections to lower BBs @jonKranked usually posts here goes by this exact argument: lower BBs are detrimental to manualling/wheeling (practically every single BMX bike has its BB sitting higher than their axles).So my new theory to explain why mullets are fun is because it drops the BB while keeping a high stack height.
Not sure what you're talking about, I have no objections to low bb heights.Actually, the BB sits higher in relation to the rear axle when compared to the pure 29" builds. One of the most common objections to lower BBs @jonKranked usually posts here goes by this exact argument: lower BBs are detrimental to manualling/wheeling (practically every single BMX bike has its BB sitting higher than their axles).
Following your line of thought, it appears it's the relative BB height/drop and not its absolute height/drop what ends up being beneficial towards a playful bike.
I didn't mean to say you were objecting low BBs. Your last post explains it in much more simple terms.Not sure what you're talking about, I have no objections to low bb heights.
Maybe I'm wrong, but I recall you saying the lower the BB, the harder a bike is to manual/wheelie, and stating BMX bikes are easier to manual given they have BB rise instead.following up on my post (as I was on my phone).
more BB drop = harder to manual, but more stable at speed. not impossible to manual, just not as easy.
bb rise = easier to manual, also easier to loop out. trials bikes have bb rise too.
yea, ease of manualling is partially driven by the height of the BB in relationship to the rear axle (above or below, and how much). its be no means the only factor, i'd probably argue the overall length of the bike and chainstays is probably more of a factor.I didn't mean to say you were objecting low BBs. Your last post explains it in much more simple terms.
(seems like we both were writing at the same time, sorry)
Maybe I'm wrong, but I recall you saying the lower the BB, the harder a bike is to manual/wheelie, and stating BMX bikes are easier to manual given they have BB rise instead.
Again, maybe I'm wrong (although on a different matter) and the BB's relative drop to the rear axle in the mullet bikes makes them more wheelable/manualable (are these even words?).
When putting a 27.5 on my Force 29 it definitely dropped the BB even if I put the flip chip in High. The stack remained the same tho.Actually, the BB sits higher in relation to the rear axle when compared to the pure 29" builds. One of the most common objections to lower BBs @jonKranked usually posts here goes by this exact argument: lower BBs are detrimental to manualling/wheeling (practically every single BMX bike has its BB sitting higher than their axles).
Following your line of thought, it appears it's the relative BB height/drop and not its absolute height/drop what ends up being beneficial towards a playful bike.
Yes, in relation to the 29/29 combo, te BB drops. But if you trace the angle between the rear axle, the horizontal line traversing it, and the BB, the BB sits higher relative to the the rear axle in the mullet combo. I'm unable to draw anything right now but I'll work on some numbers and probably a diagram when I get the time.When putting a 27.5 on my Force 29 it definitely dropped the BB even if I put the flip chip in High.
I understand since this was the base of my explanation for why the bike was so easy to manual. For most of the season I didn't look any further but the BMX and its positive BB drop definitely threw a wrench in this theory.Yes, in relation to the 29/29 combo, te BB drops. But if you trace the angle between the rear axle, the horizontal line traversing it, and the BB, the BB sits higher relative to the the rear axle in the mullet combo. I'm unable to draw anything right now but I'll work on some numbers and probably a diagram when I get the time.
The latest Downtime podcast does the same comparison. It's well worth a listen. Two of the riders in the end said they'd opt for the Mullet option and one said the full 29er. They were all impressed by the dual 27.5 despite initial misgivings about it.I got around to reading the EnduroMTB comparison of the 3 Spectrals. While I roll my eyes heavily at them proclaiming that 29 is the best (while also noting that their testers have an average height of 1.85m / 6'1"), I do notice that the mullet does seem to corner a little bit different than full 29.