My bike needs a diet...

joelsman · Dec 17, 2004

go tubeless and at least a smaller rear tire
get a boxxer or a manitou slider for a light fork,
magnesium pedals

SuperSlow · Dec 18, 2004

tubeless, but the v10 or any bike with 10 inches is pretty much a plow through anything bike. Maybe look in to a bike with 8 or so in the rears

BigMike · Dec 18, 2004

get an XC bike......

erikkellison · Dec 18, 2004

Double ply for sure, especially if you're going to run tubeless. If you're in a financial situation, go Stan's (or similar ghetto-rigged tubeless setup). I would also get a lighter stem and pedals. I think you could save roughly 100g more by running an FSA Platinum Pro Titanium spindle BB. Check out the Xpedo MX3 pedal. And a fork is a huge part of the equation... I could spout off a few, but I'm no DH expert, and won't pretend to know what will work well and still be light on a V-10 (don't want to screw up geometry). The tire setup will save you the most weight by far, and really changes the ride from a "plow" to more of a crotch rocket.

lonewolfe · Dec 18, 2004

Go tubeless and build up some 823's. Swap out your crank for one of the newer style XT cranks with integrated bottom braket and guess what, you will be sub 40lbs with that V10.

dlb · Dec 18, 2004

Your running real heavy tires right now, try some Minions or Highrollers. Those A frame pedals are heavy, Im using the Wellgo Magnisium flat pedals, no problems holding up and they weigh around 375g's.

dw · Dec 18, 2004

rockymt21 said:
I am also thinking of drilling 4 or 5 holes around the E.thirteen bash guard, this might reduce some weight and more importantly clear out mud faster which is a big thing, all I ride is mud so thats a factor aswell but i dont wnat this thing to break so I am not sure...

Dan

The bashguard only weighs ~150-175 grams depending on the size (which is less than 2 aluminum plates I might add), so if you drill it out, you stand to lose about 50 grams max, and it becomes totally useless. You might as well take off your chainguide and complete drivetrain entirely if you plan to go that route! Seriuosly! Even the real weight conscious e.thirteen pros opt to run the full bashguard route.

I was going to suggest you use lighter tires, and 823s with DT champion DB spokes or Alpine 3s. That will make a huge difference in how heavy your bike feels. Its still not going to be "lively" compared to many other DH bikes due tot he suspension, but it sure will get lighter, and in the best place possible.

good luck with your quest!

dw

dw · Dec 18, 2004

http://www.e13components.com/guide_rings.html

cant believe i didn't think of this before. a guide ring will help clear mud, weighs about 35 grams, and cost about $35 MSRP. Its 7075 T6 too, so it will last for a whole season for most riders.

dw

Gary · Dec 18, 2004

rockymt21 said:
I need to get some more finess.

Getting fitter involves riding your bike, not sitting at a computer discussing how to spend money lightening an already capable DH race bike

Brian HCM#1 · Dec 18, 2004

rockymt21 said:
Thanks Dave,

Are 823's strong enough for a big kid and all out dh riding, with drops?

Dan

The 823's are prone to flat spotting and denting unless you're running a lot of pressure. I still like mine though. You can go with some Middleburn cranks, I have similar parts on my Karpiel Army with Avalanche front & rear and it weighs a hair under 46lbs.

seismic · Dec 18, 2004

DO not get too weak rims if you are a big boy...you will regret it when things wont hold up !

vincent · Jan 6, 2005

rockymt21 said:
For a fork im not sure. I have a Sherman Slider + but the Manitou Drop Crown isnt long enough.

I know I'm late but I think it's important.....
I have a 2003 medium v10 with fsa pig headset and a slider +
I run the drop crown and the stanchions go aprox. 1 inche above the crown and the fork isn't touching nothing when I butom it. I unscrewed the left top cap (spring side) so the fork didn't had resistance then I saw that all was ok.
maybe it's because your v10 is a large but I don't think your headtube is 1 inche bigger than mine.

PS: sorry for my bad english

Vincent

dromond · Jan 6, 2005

Gary said:
Getting fitter involves riding your bike, not sitting at a computer discussing how to spend money lightening an already capable DH race bike

Seriously man. That is a good solid setup. Nothing crazy heavy there except perhaps the frame. Having a liteweight bike is great but not the be all and end all. With a reasonably setup like you have I would tell you to go to the gym and ride more.

cheers

scurban · Jan 6, 2005

change the tires, and tubes, to somthing else. Try Maxxis Minnion 2.5's.... 2.8's are any overkill. A rockshox Boxxer World Cup is a good choice for the fork. Its only weighs like 7lbs. If you don't want to get a RockShox, try the new fox, its light, but pricy!

scurban · Jan 6, 2005

joelsman said:
go tubeless and at least a smaller rear tire
get a boxxer or a manitou slider for a light fork,
magnesium pedals

Magnesium pedals will help too.... A Frames Are heavy.

me89 · Jan 6, 2005

tires and tubes obviously. sell the v10 and buy a smaller frame, and a frame with less travel. also i would suggest the fox over the boxxer anyday.fox makes good reliable forks and there made in the good ole us of a. (if that matters to you). Also was reading about them in an old bike mag and they said that the lateral stiffness is as good if not better than an inverted fork. and it weighs less ohh and you get 40mm stanchions in a 7lb package. also the a frames are tanks, so maybee switchin those out, i run the tioga factory pedals dont know the weight on them so they might weigh more but if they weigh less i suggest those things there awsome.

Sir Happypants · Jan 6, 2005

i think i can diagnose why you're bike weighs so much: its a ten inch travel downhill bike... there are certain comprimises you make, you buy a long travel bike for downhill racing and it weighs 45 pounds, you buy a 6 inch fr bike it weighs 30 pounds

if you want a more "flickable and nimble" bike a ten inch travel frame is not gonna provide that for you no matter what you do, so throwing money and parts at the problem wont solve it... you dont dh race xc bikes...

OGRipper · Jan 6, 2005

Other than tires and maybe pedals there just isn't that much you can do without spending a lot of money and compromising strength and durability. (Insert famous Bontrager quote here.)

There may be some things you can do with shock set up to get a more lively "flickable" ride but that frame is what it is, and what it is is a great racing frame for pointing straight down the hill and plowing over or through everything in the way. Yeah are people that ride them like hardtails but they're working harder than they would on another frame.

Either get used to it or save the money you would spend on light parts and put it towards another frame. Maybe see if someone wants to trade you for a gemini or something...

vincent · Jan 6, 2005

rockymt21 said:
Guys, thanks for the recent help but it is not needed. The frame is for sale and I picked up a medium demo 9 for an amazing deal.

Dan

doubt it could be lighter or more dh specific

renegade999 · Jan 6, 2005

going from a V10 to a demo 9 wont help you much. The V10 is more than capable as a top form DH race bike. Flickability aside, all bikes have strengths and weaknesses. You labeled yourself as a 'big kid'. Wouldn't a big kid ride a big bike? Best of luck with the demo 9, but I believe you've just engineered a custom built waste of your time and energy.

Light DH bikes break. Unless you're one of the top DH pilots, a few pounds won't shave seconds off a race run. Only a strong fit, and most of all experienced racer could warrant a lighter weight frame. Any racer worth his salt would tell you that the experience gained from riding the same frame and getting acustomed to the handling and suspension would definetely outweigh (no pun intended) a lighter weight frame.

Bikes dont need diets. Chubby racers do.

Have fun!

dromond · Jan 6, 2005

rockymt21 said:
Ohh it definetly is...

Dan

Haha. Somebody wanted to spend money. Who am I to get in the way.

Enjoy

CreeP · Jan 6, 2005

i would've said trade the frame for a medium vp free. One of the big reasons the v10 is so point and shoot is the huge percentage of sag, similar to the giant DH bike. It makes it far more difficult to pull the bike into the air, but the benefit is that when you're riding super bumpy stuff you can float over it while still maintaining traction. For mud, i'd say it was silly of you to have gone after a super long travel vpp bike to begin with weight be damned. If you were riding somewhere else maybe you should've kept the frame and gone for the lighter bits.

Meh, what do i know, i ride a rigid bike

sk8kid33 · Jan 6, 2005

rockymt21 said:
I was thinking about another bike, but financially, it ain't happenin'. Im kind of looking for more flickablity and manuverablity. The bike is just impossible to push around. I love how the bike rides its just a hog and I wish it was a tad smaller. I am going to look into tubeless, should I just get Stans? Or go for the tubeless rims and tires set up? I'll aslo be ordering some smaller tires from Maxxis as my team is sponsored by them, should I go with single or double ply? I am a big kid so I think dual ply will work fine...

Dan

I offeredyou before a still big travel bike that weighs a lot less as a strait up trade. PM me if you still wanna make the switch to a lighter yet still big travel dh bike.

Also how much does a v10 frame weigh alone???

sk8kid33 · Jan 6, 2005

what does a v10 frame weigh???

xy9ine · Jan 6, 2005

according to my bathroom scale - large frame with floater, hub & seatpost - 14lbs. about 12lbs stripped i guess.

erikkellison · Jan 6, 2005

I think it would be more fitting for a mod to delete your account than to delete this thread. You ask for our opinion and give us rules in which to suggest things. Then you go and break the rules by changing frames, and tell us that help is not needed. Thanks for wasting my time. At least it is obvious from the negative feedback you've received that your decision to switch to a Demo9 from a V-10 for DH racing (your purposes) was a stupid one. Good luck getting any more advice after this stunt.

sk8kid33 · Jan 6, 2005

yeah a v10 to a demo 9 doesn't make sense for racing yet he turned down a trade for a 9" travel DH RACING frame that weighs 4 lbs less than his v10. and if you feel like going to a real DH frame I will gladly accept that demo as a trade.

Rik · Jan 7, 2005

rockymt21 said:
I dont feel like arguing back, a mod can delete this thread

It really sucks when people tell you something you don't want to hear, doesn't it?
Good advice was given... but was it taken?

renegade999 · Jan 7, 2005

some people have to learn the hard way. What's another DH season of DNF's and DFL's when you're having fun right?

Big Mistake getting rid of the V10. Huge. The 02-04 V10's have won World Cups, Red Bull Rampage, Nationals, and I'm sure are being piloted to victories at all types of localized events. In the hands of a competant rider, it's a winner for sure. Make any excuse you like, it's always the rider before the bike. You obviosly have a lot to learn.

Best of luck in 2005 with the Demo 9.

My bike needs a diet...

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