Since I don't know if you set them up initially, I'll start pretty much from scratch.
Part 1
Here's the fun part. Look at the caliper/rotor at an angle that allows you to see the rotor between the pads. If your rotor is relatively straight (they're all a little off), and is still rubbing, you should be able to tell which side is hitting the rotor. Loosen those 5mm bolts again (just enough to move the caliper but tight enough so that the caliper isn't flopping around) and move the caliper enough in the necessary direction so that it's not rubbing anymore and retighten. If you look into the caliper and the rotor is rubbing on one side and then the other, you'll never get it completely quiet but should adjust the caliper so that it's only rubbing on one side and not slowing your wheel down too much. Repeat as necessary. If that's not working, do Part 2 first.
Part 2
Take off your wheel. To make sure your pads are aligned well you'll need to reset them. You can do this by first taking out the pads by grabbing the skinny little tabs on them that stick out of the caliper and pull straight out, away from the caliper body. You'll put them back in the same way. Grab a 10mm closed end wrench and reach into the caliper body where the pads were and press back the black piston that is on each side. Make sure your using the closed end of the wrench and pushing on the black part, not the brass rod that the pads were mounted to. That rod goes in the circular end of the wrench. Once both pistons are pushed back (reset), put the pads back in. Loosen the 5mm allen bolts that fix the caliper to the black adapter (absent if on an older manitou fork). Loosen them just enough so that the caliper can move slightly left and right but no more. Put the wheel back on. You need to pump up the caliper again so that the pads contact the rotor by squeezing the brake lever a few times. Once the distance of the brake lever engagement has stabilized (not changing or feeling like pumping), squeeze it hard like your locking your brakes. With pressure on the lever, reach down and tighten the 5mm bolts that attach the caliper to the black adapter. Ideally this should align the caliper and pads according to hayes but I have yet to see it work flawlessly. Now go to part 1.
Oh yeah. If it's a downhill bike, don't sweat it. They all rub.
All this is in Hayes books you can look at that your bike shop probably has. Check their website too.
I got the bike used and they came with the bike, its a ds1 and the front drags a lil but the rear is kinda alot. also...most of the bolts are really close to being stripped so are there any like bolt kits or anything like that?
I don't really want to adjust anything untill I get some new bolts so it I have trouble getting them off they might not get back on
Slide a credit card between the rotor and pad. This will force the pistons all the way back in and hold them there. You should rotate the lever so the bleed screw is pointing up. Hold a rag around it while slowly backing out the screw. This will allow any extra fluid to escape. Wipe any spillage up with alcohol. Now tighten the screw back down, remove the credit card. Look to see if the caliper is lined up. With the pads all the way retracted it will be easy to see. Now pump the lever. All should be well. Doing this resets the "memory"/self-adjusting feature and will give you the best modulation, and is a good way to get rid of some rubs.
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