[hooker_47]

Hello everyone! This is my first post, and I am trying to make it a good one. So here it goes...

I've been out of riding for quite some time, but I finally got my old 930 singletrack out of storage, changed the tires, tightened things up, changed the grip shifts and cables, etc. I forgot just how much I enjoyed riding that old bike!

When I bought it in '97 I remember that I could have bought it with Rock Shox, but at the time I couldn't afford it. The guy watching the store built up the last one they had with the solid front fork, and I rolled it out the door.

When I took it to the bike shop down the road just a couple of days ago, I asked about putting suspension on the front. He told me that it was impossible to put a shock on that bike, and if I did it would drastically change the steering geometry and make it unrideable.

After a little research on the web, I discovered he is full of s*** and was wondering if there is anything I need to know before purchasing a used shock off ebay. I realize I have to change my threaded fork for a threadless. I have read a couple of posts on other websites mentioning the damping length of the shock (one said 80 mm, another 100).

I guess my question is, does anyone know what damping length I need for this particular bike? Is it really important or should I just go with a rock shox judy or something similar? The frame, if I remember correctly, was a 17.5 in.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

-Joe

 

[Wumpus]

Here is a list of some fork and axle crown measurements -- measure from the bottom of the headset to the middle of the axle.

http://www.ridemonkey.com/forums/showpost.php?p=2361266&postcount=5

1" = 25.4 mm = 1° of change in head angle

 

[sanjuro]

First of all, you probably want a new bike. By the time you add up all the parts and labor, and considering the age of the entire bike, you are better off buying a new bike, even if it costs a few hundred more than just a fork.

However, it is possible to change the fork. Most bikes around that time were built around a 80mm suspension fork, so you can replace the rigid fork without changing the geometry too dramatically. A 100mm fork would change the geometry significantly (possibly a 3 degree head angle change), which might be still rideable. A bigger travel fork could break off your head tube due to the increased leverage.

The first thing to consider is the steerer tube width, which at that time is probably an 1 inch steerer. Modern forks are 1 1/8, so you will have to find a 1 inch fork on Ebay or similar. Unfortunately, 1 inch forks are becoming rarer, as alll the fork manufacturers no longer offer an 1 inch fork.

The next thing to consider is the switch from threaded to threadless. Even the 1 inch suspension forks from the last 10 years are threadless, so in order to switch the fork from a threaded fork to a threadless, you need to change the headset and stem, which could lead into a lot of problems (take it from a professional). This also might interfere with the cantilever brake, as many stems had a cantilever stop built into them.

That shop you talked to gave you a blowoff answer, but they were correct in advising not to make a switch.

 

[hooker_47]

That's what I was looking for. Now I have some idea what shocks will fit the bike, but still keep my steering geometry intact. Thanks.

 

[zebrahum]

I just made my 97 Fisher into a singlespeed with a front fork and I can say from experience that you should stick with 80mm. The 100mm really makes the bike handle strangely. But it's not unrideable by any means. You would simply enjoy the bike more if you had a lower travel fork. Remember, that was the time when most bikes were spec'd with (I believe) 65mm forks.

Do: Spend for a nice new complete bike
Don't: Buy an old Judy. You should get a new generation fork, they're a world apart

 

[paulbug]

Joe,
I recently helped a guy upgrade his old Manitou original elastomer 1" tube fork to a Marzocchi MX comp in the 1" version. They still make it, I believe, but not everybody carries it. Sometimes you can find em on jenson or other onliners, but no guarantees. Right now Nashbar has a sale on a 1" RST 80 mm fork, but it's probably pretty crappy. Better than no suspension, I guess.
Here's an interesting discussion: http://www.dirtragmag.com/forums/archive/index.php/t-8917.html
A lot of guys are looking to go vintage nowadays, and fork makers are figuring that out, so they're trying to offer forks that would work with the old '93 Yeti or Bridgestone or whatever people have in their garage.
Make super sure that you do have a 1" headtube though--they started making 1 1/8" compatible headtubes before 97. If you have a 1 1/8"er, more power to ya. You probably already figgered out what it is.
Keep up the search; I'm rootin for ya. I think if you find the right fork and slap it on there, you'll have a hoot on that thing.
Paul
California

 

[hooker_47]

Thanks for all the replies! I am planning on a new bike in the future, but for now my old singletrack will have to do. Eventually it will end up as SS, but I don't think I will ever give up that frame. It the best fit frame I ever rode on. 'Course I never had one made for me, but that's an option for the future...