[Dog Welder]

I can't take my truck into the shop for a week so I'll try and suss it out myself. This morning truck drove fine. This afternoon if I try to take it above 60-65mph my truck starts shaking violently. My coffee starts spilling all over the place and my change is bouncing in my ashtray. I initially thought it was a motor mount thing but and tried to take the truck all the way up through 5000 rpms but in 2nd gear, no vibrations. Only get them when i'm in the 60mph range. I think the vibrations are coming from the right front tire as all my other tires look fine in the mirrors while I'm driving.

My thoughts are that maybe I threw a weight and now the tires unbalanced...but wouldn't I feel that earlier at a lower speed?

My shocks might be out. They are pretty old. liek probably 70k+ miles old.

Any ideas?

 

[loco-gringo]

You should have brushed more as a child and this wouldn't be an issue right now.

 

[Serial Midget]

Full plate uppers should help you out.

 

[DavidMakalaster]

Carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft.

A lot of longer wheelbase trucks have a two piece driveshaft that is supported in the middle by a bearing at the middle U-Joint. Check for play or any other symptoms of wear in that bearing (If you have it).

Let me know if that's it. I'm curious.

 

[jdcamb]

Sounds like your Front end stabilizer.

 

[Dog Welder]

By the way its a 91 Toyota pickup Sr5 with the 3.Slow.

 

[Wumpus]

Here are some ways to diagnose what the cause most likely might be :

Wobble at idle. :

Car with auto tranny experience this worse, if sitting at a stop lite car in gear, steering wheel shakes

Most likely cause : motor mounts, broken, collapsed, mostly the rear and or frt mounts..chk all mounts ..


Wobble at slow speeds 10-25 mph..

most likely cause :: you got a separated ply in the tire,or a tire badly worn, where the metal cords are showing, take a close look at the tires .

As mentioned by JIM BLAKE.......... if you suspect bad tires
Don't forget the best way to separate tire/wheel problems from suspension, is to swap the tires.
swap the frt to rears and see if wobble helps if it does you know you got bad tires for sure


wobble at highway speed:

most likely cause ,,: 1, out of balance tires. Have the wheel balanced .. 2, bent rims, 3 worn suspension parts, ( inner and outer tie rods,ball joints etc etc ) inspect frt suspension components

Wobble when braking ::

Most likely cause:: warped rotors. mostly the fronts but it could also be the rear rotors or drums is so equipped ..The way to diagnose if it is coming from the frt or rear is to.. take car on a drive, instead of using the brake pedal to slow down ( stop ) just use the E- Brake. if you feel wheel shaking than you got an issue with the rear ,, if it slows down smoothly,, next time ,just use the brake pedal if wheel shakes you got warped frt rotors..

 

[fuzzynutz]

you need a new johnson rod

 

[reflux]

You should have brushed more as a child and this wouldn't be an issue right now.

Damn, you're quick on the draw.

My response: HTFU.

 

[gonefirefightin]

sounds like a U joint. what year and make is it?

 

[V-Dub GTI]

sounds like a U joint. what year and make is it?

.......

By the way its a 91 Toyota pickup Sr5 with the 3.Slow.

 

[gonefirefightin]

.......

my bad, should have looked closer.


easy way to find out is get under it and try moving the drive shaft horizontally and vertically. if that is not it then move to the front axle and moving your steering components side to side. there can be a little play in the steering components but you will notice more than normal play. the drive line should not be able to move at all.

If the u joint is the fix then it is a simple shade tree job that will take about 40 minutes and 30 bucks.

 

[DirtyMike]

Dont forget seperated tires, they can shake like a B and sometimes , depending on what type of seperation, you will feel it at highway speeds, and other seps youll feel at low speeds. Chance are that it is tire related, most likely seperation seeing how it started all of a sudden, be carefull trying to stick it out, once they start to Sep, they eventually blow out

 

[loco-gringo]

Dont forget seperated tires, they can shake like a B and sometimes , depending on what type of seperation, you will feel it at highway speeds, and other seps youll feel at low speeds. Chance are that it is tire related, most likely seperation seeing how it started all of a sudden, be carefull trying to stick it out, once they start to Sep, they eventually blow out

I had a belt break on a 235/85 - 16 once and it beat the hell out of me.

I had a tread come off, with the exception of 8 inches, and it also be the hell out of me. It also beat $1800 worth of dents into the bed and cratered the exhaust. oster_oops:

 

[bio-smear]

I'll vote for tire/wheel balance. They're pretty much the only thing that really changes rpm significantly from slow to fast cruising speeds since the driveshaft is geared somewhat by the rear end....so that would rule out a carrier bearing or u-joints IMO.

I've also had a belt break in a radial tire, even had some new tires that wore into a polygon shape... the vibration is significant. Tires really talk to you at higher speeds if there's something wrong.

 

[DirtyMike]

Exactly, its scary how fast a tire can go bad, specially in teh heat, even worse if your pressure is just a bit low

 

[DirtyMike]

my bad, should have looked closer.


easy way to find out is get under it and try moving the drive shaft horizontally and vertically. if that is not it then move to the front axle and moving your steering components side to side. there can be a little play in the steering components but you will notice more than normal play. the drive line should not be able to move at all.

If the u joint is the fix then it is a simple shade tree job that will take about 40 minutes and 30 bucks.

There is an easier way to check a Ujoint, take your foot off the gas. If its a Ujoint vibration will change substantially, maybe go away completly, but yes basic shakedown will verify

 

[DavidMakalaster]

I'll vote for tire/wheel balance. They're pretty much the only thing that really changes rpm significantly from slow to fast cruising speeds since the driveshaft is geared somewhat by the rear end....so that would rule out a carrier bearing or u-joints IMO.

I've also had a belt break in a radial tire, even had some new tires that wore into a polygon shape... the vibration is significant. Tires really talk to you at higher speeds if there's something wrong.

The ring gear reduces RPM. The driveshaft changes RPM much more with engine speed.
BTW: I had the exact same problem with a Tacoma. It started like clockwork at the exact same RPM every time.

 

[bio-smear]

The ring gear reduces RPM. The driveshaft changes RPM much more with engine speed.
BTW: I had the exact same problem with a Tacoma. It started like clockwork at the exact same RPM every time.

Ring gear is simply the geared part of the flywheel that the starter engages. It's a huge gear that makes it easier to turn the engine over. The crankshaft goes directly into the transmission. Transmission outputs to driveline.

I have heard of people bending drivelines which can cause a ****load of vibration, so I guess a bum carrier bearing could cause a similar effect.

Still, tires wear out faster and more often than carrier bearings.

 

[DavidMakalaster]

Ring gear is simply the geared part of the flywheel that the starter engages. It's a huge gear that makes it easier to turn the engine over. The crankshaft goes directly into the transmission. Transmission outputs to driveline.

I have heard of people bending drivelines which can cause a ****load of vibration, so I guess a bum carrier bearing could cause a similar effect.

Still, tires wear out faster and more often than carrier bearings.

The ring gear is what the pinion ingages in the differential to turn the axles. Most of the RPM reduction is done at the ring and pinion. In fact at higher speeds the overdrive (hence the name) actually increases driveline RPM.

 

[bio-smear]

The ring gear is what the pinion ingages in the differential to turn the axles. Most of the RPM reduction is done at the ring and pinion. In fact at higher speeds the overdrive (hence the name) actually increases driveline RPM.

Oh... THAT ring gear.

 

[DavidMakalaster]

Oh... THAT ring gear.

Never heard anyone call the outside of a flywheel of flexplate a ring gear. it's not a seperate part.

 

[bio-smear]

Never heard anyone call the outside of a flywheel of flexplate a ring gear. it's not a seperate part.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_ring_gear
http://www.ringgear.co.nz/

 

[Dog Welder]

There is an easier way to check a Ujoint, take your foot off the gas. If its a Ujoint vibration will change substantially, maybe go away completly, but yes basic shakedown will verify

Well then its most likely not a ujoint because if I'm at 70 and its shaking like a mofo, and I take my foot off the gas. The car will continue to shake until it slows past 60. There is no notable difference in vibration with foot on or off the gas.

Oh and I'm on a set of 31x 10.5 x 15in BFG All terrains that have about 60k miles on them. The tread wear indicators show plenty of tire still.

 

[Dog Welder]

BTW: I had the exact same problem with a Tacoma. It started like clockwork at the exact same RPM every time.

What was your solution to your Tocoma vibration.

 

[bean]

The bolts connecting drive shaft to the third member on my LandCruiser started coming loose and caused exactly what you're describing, and if I remember correctly, it happened pretty quickly. It could also happen if the balancing weights for the drive shaft have broken loose.

 

[ragerider]

Sounds like a u-joint to me as well. If you just take your foot off of the gas the driveshaft is still spinning so it can still be hard to tell.
Try shifting into neutral but be very careful when doing so at that speed. If it goes away it is a u-joint or something in the drivetrain but most likely a u-joint.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

Sounds like the tires are out of balance. I had a 99 Durango, and that thing threw wheel weights all the time.

 

[urbaindk]

Carrier bearing on the rear driveshaft.

.

Yep, I had that go out on my Mazda and experienced similar vibrations.

 

[DirtyMike]

Well then its most likely not a ujoint because if I'm at 70 and its shaking like a mofo, and I take my foot off the gas. The car will continue to shake until it slows past 60. There is no notable difference in vibration with foot on or off the gas.

Oh and I'm on a set of 31x 10.5 x 15in BFG All terrains that have about 60k miles on them. The tread wear indicators show plenty of tire still.

Haha, Its your tires, I have had a ton of BFG AT's do this same thing, its a sepereation near the edge of the tread, you might see some really small blisters right at the corner of the tread and sidewall right inbetween the treadblocks. Very common on these tires, not one that will make teh tire blow out, but still you want to get it taken care of, that or someone you know is playing a prank and has added some extra weight to one of your front wheels,

 

[DirtyMike]

Never heard anyone call the outside of a flywheel of flexplate a ring gear. it's not a seperate part.

Actually, yes it is, and it is replaceable on a flywheel, but not on a flexplate, But not many people know it seing how with automotive its cheaper to get a reman flywheel then to replace a ring gear, Now the Deisel industry, Big 18 wheelers, its cheaper and faster to replace it.

 

[DirtyMike]

Stop thinking of your ring and Pinion as something that increases driveline rpm, or lowers Axle rpm. But think of it as something that increases wheel torque. A drive can cause some Bad vibrations in any vehicle, but its a very distinct vibration, youll hear noise, a humming along with the vibration when its in the driveline, also the vibration will change with Load, IE hitting the gas, or letting off. The same goes for a carrier bearing. A ring and Pinion problem wont cause a vibration either, They will just howl like a Banshee, and throw gear oil everywhere once the Pinion seal goes bad. Overall Driveline and Rear end vibrations are very distinct, But never the less, get it checked out at a shop, Its too bad you dont live near me, you could bring it over o my shop

 

[narlus]

you need a new johnson rod

could be a stuck fetzer valve.