I'm testing all of you, that's whywhy would anyone want to name their handlebar with the same name nemesis project uses for their handlebar?
My real one was the power pole.
I'm testing all of you, that's whywhy would anyone want to name their handlebar with the same name nemesis project uses for their handlebar?
Sweet- excited to see your set up.I'll get a shot from the cockpit tonight.
That name has already been used on a set of bars:Titty Bars
Bacon bar...mmmmmmm I can only imagine the possibilities. Perhaps it could be filled with bacon bits and dispense them as needed on the trail.Bacon.
Charles Barley
the GNARles BARley - GnarBar for short.Gnarbar
Why not just make the crown too, and eliminate a couple of bolts, extra material, and maximise stanchion height options. Like a Chunked, or Hope stem/crown but only for fad(oooops, flat)bars.
You'll loose flex, and add higher stress points to bars. I see some potential but.
Pole Dancers.
I don't have a finished product to get a real figure for you, but it should be in line with the lightest aluminum bar / integrated stem combos.Predicted weight?
Are you saying whatI said(like Chunked Hope), or something different? Sorry I didn't get your explanation.Ok this might seem a little out there, but how about a third clamp (stem) to replace the upper crown? With all three clamped to the bar in such a short distance (6"?)it seems that the bar could structurally serve as the crown. Then you're only making three clamps and the middle one could be universal like the bar. Would also open possibilities for set ups like my old demo plus 09 boxxer with no extra stanchion.
I agree that height could be the tricky part. Definately sweet idea and your clamps look great from behind. (ha)
No a little bit different- he would use the same two parts that he's created (or something similiar) then remove the stock upper crown. Then use something that might even look like a conventional stem for the third peice. Bars would tie all three together eliminating the need for a traditional upper crown.Are you saying whatI said(like Chunked Hope), or something different? Sorry I didn't get your explanation.
This is what I wonder. I've never personally had a fork (888, Boxxer, or 40) where I had enough stanchion exposed above the upper crown that those clamps would work.How much stanchion do they need?
NO!No a little bit different- he would use the same two parts that he's created (or something similiar) then remove the stock upper crown. Then use something that might even look like a conventional stem for the third peice. Bars would tie all three together eliminating the need for a traditional upper crown.
View attachment 111036
but, but, but it has a bacon dispenser...NO!
That wouldn't be very stiff, bad idea, no point to it. Weight the same, harder to torque down, etc.
Props for creativity but that setup scares the crap out of me.
the armchair engineer in me thinks two stanchions has to be at least as stable as one steer tube......Am I the only one thinking it's more than a little sketchy to rely on the top of your stanchions to bear the entire load from your bars?...
Go look at the difference in thickness.the armchair engineer in me thinks two stanchions has to be at least as stable as one steer tube...
No way. That thing will be light as shlt once the tops of those stanchions pop off.I think you are going to end up at least 50-100g heavier than the lighter direct mount setups.
Having the threaded top caps inside would help to stop crushing/stressing the tubes. Not really any different to a top crown really.Go look at the difference in thickness.
Also, the stanchions are being loaded on the threaded portion. Not good.
It's also a bending/twisting for for which is was not designed.
You are talking about two very different things. With a dual crown fork, the leverage from your wheel is supported by two separate crowns spaced apart. That is why each crown in a dual crown fork can be much smaller than the one crown on a single crown fork, and why the stanchions can be smaller and thinner. Plus, the stanchions on a single crown fork are designed to handle the loads that are applied to that small spot - and even then you use your steer tube to support the bars.The stanchions are not going to break. What is holding you front wheel on? 2 stanchions with 20" of leverage. 2 stanchions with 1" of leverage will be fine.
your eyes are calibrated scales? that's fvckin sick!Go look at the difference in thickness.
Also, the stanchions are being loaded on the threaded portion. Not good.
It's also a bending/twisting for for which is was not designed.
I'm not trying to hate but I'm not a fan I don't see any weight savings. I think you are going to end up at least 50-100g heavier than the lighter direct mount setups.
Tell me how you really feel.Go look at the difference in thickness.
Also, the stanchions are being loaded on the threaded portion. Not good.
It's also a bending/twisting for for which is was not designed.
I'm not trying to hate but I'm not a fan I don't see any weight savings. I think you are going to end up at least 50-100g heavier than the lighter direct mount setups.
This is hilarious. Nice work, Picasso.No a little bit different- he would use the same two parts that he's created (or something similiar) then remove the stock upper crown. Then use something that might even look like a conventional stem for the third peice. Bars would tie all three together eliminating the need for a traditional upper crown.
View attachment 111036
Someone give this man some rep. as I must spread thy rep b4 givith to JK. That's a hilarious reply.your eyes are calibrated scales? that's fvckin sick!
I don't know- if you're going to have a straight bar in there, you might as well get rid of some parts.NO!
That wouldn't be very stiff, bad idea, no point to it. Weight the same, harder to torque down, etc.