New Bike, Q's
- Thread starter rubyrod44
- Start date
Light, strong, cheap. Pick two.
The 4500 is sort of an entry level bike. It's a solid bike, but in order to keep the price down, it's spec'd with heavier parts.
Who told you it was supposed to be super light... and what were you expecting "super light" to be?
Who told you it was supposed to be super light... and what were you expecting "super light" to be?
maybe the frame is 'super' lite it's the rest of the stuff that's heavy.rubyrod44 said:
yeah the frame may very well be relatively light, but its stuff like the wheels that are really going to add weight. Once you ride more just start replacing things and start with rotational weight (ie wheels) and go from there. Pounds will shed pretty fast I would imagine. Also the fork is probably really heavy as well.
If you want to start doing some drops and a little downhill methinks you bought the wrong type of bike to do that.rubyrod44 said:
rubyrod44 said:
Yeeeah...4500=Not a DH bike.
Just ride, and you'll notice when you need more bike, but please, for the sake of the Bike Gods, do not attempt to take it up Plattekill.
My boyfriend just bought one of these and I can definitely relate to being blown away by the weight of it. It's a nice, solid bike, however with nice components. The disks definitely add some off this weight. The tires, however, are really fat, and may be more rugged than you actually need, so that would be the first place I would suggest removing weight from.
Happy riding.
Beth
Happy riding.
Beth
It's actually not a very light frame until you drill the prescribed holes. Check the owner's manual. You should drill 1-1/2" holes approximately 2" apart on the top, down, and seat tubes.rubyrod44 said:
Whatever you do, DON'T drill out the seat & chainstays.
-S.S.-
Bwahaha...My dad has one. I think I weighed the frame once...it was over 5 lbs.SkaredShtles said:It's actually not a very light frame until you drill the prescribed holes. Check the owner's manual. You should drill 1-1/2" holes approximately 2" apart on the top, down, and seat tubes.
Whatever you do, DON'T drill out the seat & chainstays.
-S.S.-
Yes. That is hella superlight for an AL HT frame...
if your going to do drops and downhill i wouldnt change a thing. Heavy is good, it's when you try to go UP things that you will notice. If you wana do bigger stuff you might need to get a new bike, maybe a full suspension.rubyrod44 said:
Want to ride DH? Ride it up a hill, then turn around. I had a 6000 as my first bike; it'll be fine for you. Learn to ride it under all conditions, learn to wheelie-drop curbs and tiny ledges, replace parts as they break or you find you've totally exceeded their capabilities (although with the 4500 bike, you're probably better off selling it and buying something new, because putting a nice fork or crankset on it is like trying to put a turbo in your Ford Festiva. The Festiva might be a great first car, which gives you great memories of trips in it and maybe some thrilling near-death experiences, but you know when it's time to move on...)
If you're already an experienced rider, you really just bought the wrong bike. And the big downside is that it really has very little resale value, unfortunately.
The "upgrades" you should make are: quality tires (ask an experienced rider in your area what to buy, or tell us where you ride and how) and brake pads (if you're running v-brakes...if discs, you won't have too many options that'll make a ton of difference in your case.) The other thing you should do is have a *good* shop or experienced rider assess your riding position and change it as necessary via stem, bar, seatpost adjustments and/or replacement. Also, find a saddle you like...and good pedals.
MD
If you're already an experienced rider, you really just bought the wrong bike. And the big downside is that it really has very little resale value, unfortunately.
The "upgrades" you should make are: quality tires (ask an experienced rider in your area what to buy, or tell us where you ride and how) and brake pads (if you're running v-brakes...if discs, you won't have too many options that'll make a ton of difference in your case.) The other thing you should do is have a *good* shop or experienced rider assess your riding position and change it as necessary via stem, bar, seatpost adjustments and/or replacement. Also, find a saddle you like...and good pedals.
MD
the average lightweight frame is 5lbs. Freeride/big hits are 6.2lbs and up. You can build up any bike to be 27lbs but it COSTS $$$$$$$$...about a buck a gram to loose. The first saving is coverting to a Stan's kit and a different seat post and seat.
Kill that beater and then in a couple years buy the right bike. Do not invest any $$$
....just ride and enjoy.
Kill that beater and then in a couple years buy the right bike. Do not invest any $$$
....just ride and enjoy.
For an XC hardtail (What the 4500 is), it's an obese trailer park welfare lady.trailblazer said: