[Phreaddy]

I'm getting a new toy -- a Dremel tool -- and it's high time I changed the brake housings/cables on a couple of bikes. I'm unsatisfied with the Park CN-4's job of cutting housing (always leaves sharp bits) and don't really want to upgrade to the CN-10 (after I upgraded from the original CN-1 to the CN-4 for the same reason.
Anyway I'm wondering if any Monkeys have tried using Dremel tools either to cut the housing, or to smooth the sharp, exposed, dangly stuff after cutting with it the conventional way? Which Dremel bits should I use for each task?
Also, I'm getting new shoes and will need to trim the lugs for my low-profile pedals -- any recommendations on the best bit for that task, too?

 

[D_D]

I have used a demel clone for cutting shifter cables. It's more effort than just using cable cutters for a single cut, but the cut if far better

I wouldn't recommend it for inners as its likly to make them fray.

 

[EBasil]

I've been using a Dremel for cable housing cuts and other such bike tasks (along with nearly as many uses as they advertise on the silly box graphics) for several years. I started doing it because I felt like I could get a cleaner cut than with even Park or Shimano housing cutters, and have kept with it.

I use a standard, red, cutting wheel, at 30,000rpm and them bevel the edge of the cut by rotating the cut end against the flat side of the cutting wheel. If you need to open up or de-flash the inner cable, just use the tip of a sharp X-acto blade to make it really clean.

Then. solder the end of the cable.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

I use the CN-4, then dress the ends of the housing with a bench grinder. I have a Dremel, but only break it out for special tasks.

EBasil, In regards soldering the end of cable core, what type of solder do you use, and what flux?

J

 

[MikeD]

Yeah, I must be trying to use the wrong solder as well...what gives? What do I need to buy/do? It just seems to melt away and stick to the gun, not bind the cable strands...

MD

 

[SpasticJack]

Sounds like you're not getting the cable end hot enough. Once it's hot enough, the cable will suck the solder up via capillary action.

 

[EBasil]

I use solid core solder and acid flux gel/paste, both from the aisle in Sears or Home Depot.

Some other things to remember: you can't use too much flux, get the cable real hot, the worn-out tip on your soldering iron must be replaced for best results and, don't pinch it with your fingers when it's hot.

 

[oldfart]

I prefer the Shimano cutters for shift housing and cut off wheel for brake housing. I also taper as Ebasil. For soldering, solid core solder and acid flux and a propane torch. Some times I have to apply the flux to preheated cable. Seems to work better.

 

[johnbryanpeters]

60/40 or 50/50 solder?

 

[D_D]

I wouldn't bother to solder the ends just use a normal crimp on cap. The cables are proberly stainless and are a pain to solder.

 

[EBasil]

Originally posted by D_D
The cables are proberly stainless and are a pain to solder.

Crimp-on caps are fine, if you can find one in the bottom of your tool box... Soldering the ends is really easy and makes it painless to slide that cable in or out of a housing if you need to later: no end to fray or catch.

Plus, if you're a roadie, you know that judicious application of solder can save several micrograms and reduce turbulence at the cable end.