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new fork?

robdamanii

OMG! <3 Tom Brady!
May 2, 2005
10,681
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Out of my mind, back in a moment.
Hey folks.

Quick question. My roadie has an old alloy fork with a threaded steerer tube, and the headset threads onto that steerer on top. The stem is also a one piece assembly as well. Is there any way to replace the fork, headset and stem with a carbon assembly, or am I stuck with the 1 piece setup?
 

Pau11y

Turbo Monkey
Yup, just have to make sure of your diameter of steerer tube so you can by your new HS, fork and stem accordingly. Do you know if it's 1" or 1.125" (1 1/8")? While you're upgrading, it's prob a good time to get away from the quill type and move to the threadless type. You'll shave huge OZs!

Edit: personally I like Mag stems (ie. EM90s or Deda Mag00s). I'd go carbon, but it's REALLY expensive. I found a EM90 on the ebay for about $70.00 and it was originally a $150.00 stem (new from CBO). The Deda Mag00 was $99 and it's a $225 stem :D
King HS can be had for about $70.00 used or $90.00 new
Forks are around $200.00 range for the top end stuff (full carbon).
 
J

JRB

Guest
If you go to Flyte bikes, they have some decent forks for $150. A cane creek S2 is plenty for a road bike.
 

Pau11y

Turbo Monkey
robdamanii said:
The diameter appears to be 1.125", but I'm not entirely sure. Any way to measure without a caliper and without doing math?
The difference between a 1" and 1 1/8 is pretty noticable. Compare it to the end of your handle bar (which is like 7/8" or there abouts). If there's ballpark 1/4" difference, then it's 1 1/8. The other thing is to put a ruler across the top of the steerer...(outside diameter).
 

Pau11y

Turbo Monkey
Yeah they do... Reynolds Ouzo Pro in a 1" or an Easton SLX in a 1". The stems I mentioned above all come w/ adapters to adapt down to a 1". If not, I've got a shim from my EM90 I'll send you if you cover the postal fees. King makes NoThread Set for 1", as well as Cane Creek (I think the Solo comes in 1" flavor) too.

Edit:
Ouzo Pro (aero)
Alpha Q
Ouzo Pro
EC70

Couldn't find any EC90 right now... But like 2 weeks ago when I was looking for a SLX, I saw like 5 of them when I searched for Easton.

Cane Creek Solo
Woo this is kewl: Dura Ace

Cinelli Grammo Titanium

Any 1 1/8 will work w/ a shim
 
J

JRB

Guest
robdamanii said:
If I should get a fork that is brand new, how difficult is a star nut install? Any special tools needed to do so?
You can use a mallet and a top cap, but the tool is like $8 from nashbar. I would just buy one of those. That, or it's a 2 minute deal at the shop. I cut the steerer with a tubing cutter.
 

Pau11y

Turbo Monkey
NO NO NO NO....
For carbon steerer tubes DON'T use star nuts, use a carbon steerer plug ($20 on the high side). A star nut will scar your steerer tube's inner surface and create a stress riser in that area of the steerer. Carbon fiber need to be continuous for structural integrity and a star nut will sever the fibers when it starts to dig into the steerer's inner surface. And, when you clamp your stem on, it'll really start stressing the steerer (wouldn't want your bars to snap off and you eat a mouth full of carbon fiber ehy...?) Best tool for cutting steerer tube is a dremel (wear a dust mask). Cuts it like butter and is SUPER clean.
As for 1" steerer full carbon forks, I've been noticing there's more of the 650c than the 700c so heads up when you buy.
 
J

JRB

Guest
Yeah - I assumed that you knew not to try a star nut on carbon, or the tubing cutter. I use masking tape and a hacksaw in a cheap mitre box to cut steerers. I don't like that dremels get hot, and worry about heating the epoxy. That scares me.
 

robdamanii

OMG! <3 Tom Brady!
May 2, 2005
10,681
0
Out of my mind, back in a moment.
Pau11y said:
NO NO NO NO....
For carbon steerer tubes DON'T use star nuts, use a carbon steerer plug ($20 on the high side). A star nut will scar your steerer tube's inner surface and create a stress riser in that area of the steerer. Carbon fiber need to be continuous for structural integrity and a star nut will sever the fibers when it starts to dig into the steerer's inner surface. And, when you clamp your stem on, it'll really start stressing the steerer (wouldn't want your bars to snap off and you eat a mouth full of carbon fiber ehy...?) Best tool for cutting steerer tube is a dremel (wear a dust mask). Cuts it like butter and is SUPER clean.
As for 1" steerer full carbon forks, I've been noticing there's more of the 650c than the 700c so heads up when you buy.
Gotcha. Most of the forks I'm seeing are alloy steerers with carbon blades.

I'm wondering if this is actually work doing on this older Fuji frame. Perhaps if I repaint and such it will be nice.
 

robdamanii

OMG! <3 Tom Brady!
May 2, 2005
10,681
0
Out of my mind, back in a moment.
Hrm, ok, I'm thinking since I need new wheels that I'll go with a 9 speed rear setup as well.

This bike is runnin 7 right now. I assume that by just putting a new wheel with a 9 speed cassette and chain on it, and readjusting the derailleurs I'll be good.

Correct?
 

Pau11y

Turbo Monkey
That will work if you have downtube friction shifters...maybe. If not, you're looking at a set of STI brifters...very spendy, even at the 105 level. But they do still make dt shifters for 9 spd if I remember right...
Oh, by the way, I was cruisin' around on RoadBikeReview.com and came across this ad.
 

robdamanii

OMG! <3 Tom Brady!
May 2, 2005
10,681
0
Out of my mind, back in a moment.
Pau11y said:
That will work if you have downtube friction shifters...maybe. If not, you're looking at a set of STI brifters...very spendy, even at the 105 level. But they do still make dt shifters for 9 spd if I remember right...
Oh, by the way, I was cruisin' around on RoadBikeReview.com and came across this ad.
I've got Tiagra flightdeck shifters, so I'm all set there.