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new fork?

Discussion in 'Road & Cyclocross' started by robdamanii, Oct 3, 2005.

  1. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    Hey folks.

    Quick question. My roadie has an old alloy fork with a threaded steerer tube, and the headset threads onto that steerer on top. The stem is also a one piece assembly as well. Is there any way to replace the fork, headset and stem with a carbon assembly, or am I stuck with the 1 piece setup?
     
    #1 -   Oct 3, 2005

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  2. Pau11y

    Pau11y Turbo Monkey

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    Yup, just have to make sure of your diameter of steerer tube so you can by your new HS, fork and stem accordingly. Do you know if it's 1" or 1.125" (1 1/8")? While you're upgrading, it's prob a good time to get away from the quill type and move to the threadless type. You'll shave huge OZs!

    Edit: personally I like Mag stems (ie. EM90s or Deda Mag00s). I'd go carbon, but it's REALLY expensive. I found a EM90 on the ebay for about $70.00 and it was originally a $150.00 stem (new from CBO). The Deda Mag00 was $99 and it's a $225 stem :D
    King HS can be had for about $70.00 used or $90.00 new
    Forks are around $200.00 range for the top end stuff (full carbon).
     
    #2 -   Oct 3, 2005
  3. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    The diameter appears to be 1.125", but I'm not entirely sure. Any way to measure without a caliper and without doing math?
     
    #3 -   Oct 3, 2005
  4. JRB

    JRB Guest

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    If you go to Flyte bikes, they have some decent forks for $150. A cane creek S2 is plenty for a road bike.
     
    #4 -   Oct 3, 2005
  5. Pau11y

    Pau11y Turbo Monkey

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    The difference between a 1" and 1 1/8 is pretty noticable. Compare it to the end of your handle bar (which is like 7/8" or there abouts). If there's ballpark 1/4" difference, then it's 1 1/8. The other thing is to put a ruler across the top of the steerer...(outside diameter).
     
    #5 -   Oct 4, 2005
  6. Wumpus

    Wumpus makes avatars better

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    I don't think they make anything but 1" quill road stems.
     
    #6 -   Oct 4, 2005
  7. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    Yep, 1".

    Damnit. They don't make any kind of decent forks in 1" do they...
     
    #7 -   Oct 4, 2005
  8. Pau11y

    Pau11y Turbo Monkey

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    Yeah they do... Reynolds Ouzo Pro in a 1" or an Easton SLX in a 1". The stems I mentioned above all come w/ adapters to adapt down to a 1". If not, I've got a shim from my EM90 I'll send you if you cover the postal fees. King makes NoThread Set for 1", as well as Cane Creek (I think the Solo comes in 1" flavor) too.

    Edit:
    Ouzo Pro (aero)
    Alpha Q
    Ouzo Pro
    EC70

    Couldn't find any EC90 right now... But like 2 weeks ago when I was looking for a SLX, I saw like 5 of them when I searched for Easton.

    Cane Creek Solo
    Woo this is kewl: Dura Ace

    Cinelli Grammo Titanium

    Any 1 1/8 will work w/ a shim
     
    #8 -   Oct 4, 2005
  9. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    Awesome. Thanks dude!

    One more question....are they wheel specific? I've got 700C wheels, just wondering if there is a difference in forks.
     
    #9 -   Oct 4, 2005
  10. JRB

    JRB Guest

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  11. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    If I should get a fork that is brand new, how difficult is a star nut install? Any special tools needed to do so?
     
  12. JRB

    JRB Guest

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    You can use a mallet and a top cap, but the tool is like $8 from nashbar. I would just buy one of those. That, or it's a 2 minute deal at the shop. I cut the steerer with a tubing cutter.
     
  13. Pau11y

    Pau11y Turbo Monkey

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    NO NO NO NO....
    For carbon steerer tubes DON'T use star nuts, use a carbon steerer plug ($20 on the high side). A star nut will scar your steerer tube's inner surface and create a stress riser in that area of the steerer. Carbon fiber need to be continuous for structural integrity and a star nut will sever the fibers when it starts to dig into the steerer's inner surface. And, when you clamp your stem on, it'll really start stressing the steerer (wouldn't want your bars to snap off and you eat a mouth full of carbon fiber ehy...?) Best tool for cutting steerer tube is a dremel (wear a dust mask). Cuts it like butter and is SUPER clean.
    As for 1" steerer full carbon forks, I've been noticing there's more of the 650c than the 700c so heads up when you buy.
     
  14. JRB

    JRB Guest

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    Yeah - I assumed that you knew not to try a star nut on carbon, or the tubing cutter. I use masking tape and a hacksaw in a cheap mitre box to cut steerers. I don't like that dremels get hot, and worry about heating the epoxy. That scares me.
     
  15. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    Gotcha. Most of the forks I'm seeing are alloy steerers with carbon blades.

    I'm wondering if this is actually work doing on this older Fuji frame. Perhaps if I repaint and such it will be nice.
     
  16. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    Hrm, ok, I'm thinking since I need new wheels that I'll go with a 9 speed rear setup as well.

    This bike is runnin 7 right now. I assume that by just putting a new wheel with a 9 speed cassette and chain on it, and readjusting the derailleurs I'll be good.

    Correct?
     
  17. Pau11y

    Pau11y Turbo Monkey

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    That will work if you have downtube friction shifters...maybe. If not, you're looking at a set of STI brifters...very spendy, even at the 105 level. But they do still make dt shifters for 9 spd if I remember right...
    Oh, by the way, I was cruisin' around on RoadBikeReview.com and came across this ad.
     
  18. robdamanii

    robdamanii OMG! <3 Tom Brady!

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    I've got Tiagra flightdeck shifters, so I'm all set there.