Because the improvement is not worth more than a dropper post.You can always buy the cheaper alternative cartridge on the market....if they exist, if they don't then this is the cheapest on the market so why complain....
Because the improvement is not worth more than a dropper post.You can always buy the cheaper alternative cartridge on the market....if they exist, if they don't then this is the cheapest on the market so why complain....
So instead of a stiffer fork, we get a stiffer wheel, which will likely exasperate the flexy fork even more. Awesome, thanks for that. Why exactly is it that several World Cup riders are looking for MORE flex out of their wheels (i.e. bladed spokes for the Gstaad-Scott team, or Marshy running lower spoke tension for Winnnarrrr) yet Joe Shmoe needs a stiffer wheel all of the sudden? Riddle me that.THE SPOKE FLANGES ARE WIDER.
It was actually Trek with their shitty 29er noodle cake wheels who posed the need for wider flanges. Then they carried that crap to the smaller wheels arguing it enables shorter chainstays. From their reasoning it turns out the praised Q factor now means nothing, and you can do ok pedaling as if you were riding a hippo.So instead of a stiffer fork, we get a stiffer wheel, which will likely exasperate the flexy fork even more. Awesome, thanks for that. Why exactly is it that several World Cup riders are looking for MORE flex out of their wheels (i.e. bladed spokes for the Gstaad-Scott team, or Marshy running lower spoke tension for Winnnarrrr) yet Joe Shmoe needs a stiffer wheel all of the sudden? Riddle me that.
I argued to go 83bbx157 on all bikes. q-factor concerns ruled that out.It was actually Trek with their shitty 29er noodle cake wheels who posed the need for wider flanges. Then they carried that crap to the smaller wheels arguing it enables shorter chainstays. From their reasoning it turns out the praised Q factor now means nothing, and you can do ok pedaling as if you were riding a hippo.
I'm not arguing in favor of a narrower q factor. I was just pointing out how fast did Trek change their speech regarding it. One day you should pedal with your heels rubbing against each other, and the next one they say a Sportster Hugger should be taken as the default configuration.I argued to go 83bbx157 on all bikes. q-factor concerns ruled that out.
Next year we'll get 25/32" axlesI don't give a fuck about my wheels 'fitting' as much as just knowing 20mm is a better system I'd rather have on my fork.
*fits front hub adapter, no change in flange width of hub, am disappoint*THE SPOKE FLANGES ARE WIDER.
Key word here. Of course DH hubs will be available for a long time but every time I hear the word in a similar discussion I want to punch every industry defender who says you aren't forced to buy something because it's still available when they know real well (well that or they are really dumb) that shops won't stock all standards and in a few years the old one will phase out.^ I didn't say it was better... my reply was to someone who seemed to think that boost front wheels are the same as 20x110 dh wheels with axle size being the only difference.
They are not the same- the spoke flanges and rotor spacing are wider on boost wheels. I'm not saying it's better or worse, just that there is an actual difference in hubs.
If you want less stiff wheels- why not run the non-boost ones? They are still for sale.
Any problems outside of the creaking? Wasn't it only the case of stanctions being fit into the crown without enough grease?Hub standards aside, I'll probably be buying the new lyric to replace my creaky (again) metric hlr on my tr500.
Mind elaborating on your experience with the Metric? I was thinking about picking one of the new ones up.Hub standards aside, I'll probably be buying the new lyric to replace my creaky (again) metric hlr on my tr500.
Oh, the perfect match to these frenchies!Eff new shit...I'm sticking with the only stiff hubs ever made
Deer Valley, here I come!!
I have had a Metric for well over a year and it is rock solid. Very tough fork, not a very light fork....Mind elaborating on your experience with the Metric? I was thinking about picking one of the new ones up.
With this axle system! Simple, clean, fast/easy, and solid.....20mm is superior. Bring on the RetroBOOST!
So why bother then...just don't buy the charger and keep the original cartridge...I'm confused do you guys change shocks on motorbikes every two years? Just spend the money on maintenance instead...Again my dog traits don't allow me to understand why the fuck should I be mad for every product I do not intend to buy....Because the improvement is not worth more than a dropper post.
nope...there is actually NO way the caps can make the wheel stiffer....the spoke/rim flex will remain exactly the same... it will increase (maybe) the stiffness on the axle area... just like a 20, 25, 30mm may do.... at what degree....i think only measured test can answerSo instead of a stiffer fork, we get a stiffer wheel
He's not talking about the caps. The boost 15 standard does have wider flange spacing than 110x20, which would help with wheel stiffness.nope...there is actually NO way the caps can make the wheel stiffer....the spoke/rim flex will remain exactly the same... it will increase (maybe) the stiffness on the axle area... just like a 20, 25, 30mm may do.... at what degree....i think only measured test can answer
Instead the force is applied differently, if it really works how it claim part of the force that generally is applied mostly on the axle will be applied on the hub's sides.
boxxer is 581mm @200mm travel.If anyone's actually interested in this fork the axle-to-crown length at 180mm is 572mm.
568mm for the 26", 584mm for the 650b.Out of interest, what is the difference in axle to crown and offset in a 26" Boxxer vs. a 27.5 Boxxer? I mean, if one runs a 26" wheel in a 27.5" fork, is the world going to implode? Unridable?
Edit: and I think we all agree, 15mm axles were already stupid. Boost 15mm is downright insulting.
any idea of offset differences? That's 16mm I could probably compensate for by moving the stanchions in the crowns...568mm for the 26", 584mm for the 650b.
Right, sorry. 42mm for the 26", 48mm for the 650b.any idea of offset differences? That's 16mm I could probably compensate for by moving the stanchions in the crowns...
cause Riley is an xc dorkI argued to go 83bbx157 on all bikes. q-factor concerns ruled that out.
It's not SRAM's at all, it's an entire industry movement, not that hard to see.Sorry, me not understand SRAM's marketing BS
Fox 36 ftw
No people defiantly aren't, if there was a definitive performance loss these products would not have made it to market. This forum is just full of old heads that refuse to adapt to new stuff, not everything new is good but a majority of it is. The axle complaints sound like friends of mine in the late 90's making fun of me for buying hayes disk brakes.Not trying to start a shit storm here but are people really noticing the difference between a 15mm axle and a 20mm?
If the chassis is stout enough (apparently stiffer lowers than the pike) I don't really see why people are complaining about a possible lack of stiffness.
Fixed it for ya buddy!I find it amusing that the only person defending 15mm in both this thread and the teamrobot comments is an employee of SRAM (and before that Trek). Go figure huh?
From an engineering standpoint, 20mm axles will allow a stiffer fork for a given weight, or a lighter fork for a given stiffness. It's no different to the superiority of 31.8mm bars over 25.4mm. The sad part is that SRAM actually had a very light 20mm axle solution (maxle light), but it was steamrolled by 15mm marketing rubbish.
20mm is superior. Bring on the RetroBOOST!