[raretypeofbird]

have been riding bmx lately and finally got a big bike, '08 wilson 3. steep learning curve when it comes to tuning and dialing this thing in, hardtails and BMX's are a few bolts and BAM you're ready.

I just need like a good start point for tuning the fork mainly, i think i got the sag down on the dhx air but the fork seems like it will be much harder

 

[Racebike]

So you are not getting enough sag up front?

Back off the preload on the fork. If you are a lightweight you may have to change springs.

 

[raretypeofbird]

i'm about 200lbs with gear (not exactly sure haven't weighed lately). may have rebound down, have it like 15-17 clicks from closed, what is a good way to test it besides the bar push? curbs?

i'm setting it according to this default I found

Downhill
Sag: 28 to 40 millimeters.
Low-speed rebound: 15 to 20 clicks
out from closed.
Compression: two to five clicks
from open.

when it means clicks from open on compression, it means all the way + and then back two to five?

 

[Racebike]

You should run rebound fairly fast, the usual rule is to run rebound faster up front and slower at the rear end.

For downhill you might run between 25% and 35% of the entire stroke as sag.

The more towards "+" you turn the adjusters, the more of the adjustment becomes active. So, more "+" equals more rebound (slower return) and more compression damping (more force needed to compress the fork) respectively.

Fully open is all the way to "-" as I read it.

Don't trust the "default", it may be totally off for you.

When checking sag up front, stand centered over the bike on the pedals in a attack stance so to speak, otherwise it will be hard to determine. Use a zip tie on the stanchions to see what amount of travel you are using.

 

[raretypeofbird]

thanks for the info, another thing is the SUPER HIGH front end. not only i there like a 5 inch spacer but like 2 inch rise bars and a top load stem. easiest way to lower it?

also, sag looks to be okay on the rear shock for now

that's with no riding gear

and this is when I bounce on the pedals violently:

also, fork sag is now 35mm after setting preload a little lower

 

[Racebike]

Sure, back end looks good.

5 inches of spacers!?!, now that's a lot. I usually save 2 cm (0.75") extra steerer tube to be able to play around with adjustments/stems when building a bike.

There are a lot of bars availible in less rise as well, but start by putting stem at the lowest possible point and have a feel.

It's a bit risky having that whole stack on top of your stem, I would cut the steerer tube a bit.

You can knock down the starnut further down before you start sawing away, saves a bit of cash.

Remember: measure twice, cut once.

Concerning the fork, you probably have to back off the preload a bit more or maybe jump a step down spring wise.
If you are running the fork at 200mm (8") then your sag probably needs to be a bit more than 35mm.

 

[raretypeofbird]

5 inches was an exaggeration

still quite a bit there though.

 

[Racebike]

I would defo cut that down a bit.

Only problem is that you should probably get yourself a flat crown to accommodate that. Your crowns should not be too close together.

 

[raretypeofbird]

went for a ride today. feels pretty good. only problem is now that the brakes are sticky. the levers don't spring back right away.

i blame this on the fact that the maiden voyage was a mud-fest, or they need a re-bleed

 

[motostu93]

yeah as a general rule 30% is good for sage for shock and fork. also u need to turn down your compression or preload to get the right amount of sag in the fork

 

[raretypeofbird]

im still not getting full travel out of the fork

the sag is about 50mm so I tried to decrease compression but it was already bottomed out to the -

i have a good 2 inches of travel left

 

[Spahman]

I was right were you were at a couple years dude... I felt like a idiot going into bikeshops and asking "is this right?" kinda questions

I miss the simple bmx bike ha

check your pm box

 

[Racebike]

Mz. drop the ball once in a while when it comes to oil levels from the factory, have a look at that if you are not getting full travel.

 

[raretypeofbird]

i've got the fundamentals dvd on the way, but I just need a quick tip. I've got the compression about 5 clicks from -, from testing I gather makes it softer

 

[Racebike]

Yes, the more you crank it up (towards "+") the firmer the compression will be & vice versa.

 

[raretypeofbird]

so when someone tells me to set it to 4 clicks from open, it's from the -?

this has been confusing me for a while arrrrrg

 

[Racebike]

Yes that would be from (-).

When speaking of having an adjuster "open" in this case it is maximum oilflow.

The more (+) adjustment you add will lessen the oilflow.

So:

Fully (+) = Fully closed.
Fully (-) = Fully open.