[powderboy]

I've had great success with two different sets of SUN Rhyno Lite XL's and I can get ahold of some SUV wheelsets at a discount, so I'm going to buy them.

The SUV's are the Rhyno Lite XL's with Abbah DH hubs:
http://www.sun-ringle.com/ShowRoom/MTB/Wheels/SuvDisc.html

Anyway... I'm really not sure if I've been running 32 or 36 H hubs on my last wheels. I don't have them anymore, so I can't tell ya.

My question is, obviously a 36H wheelset will be stiffer, but is it noticeable? Will I be able to tell the difference?

I guess... what is the difference?

 

[Echo]

I think the difference in stiffness between 32 and 36 is noticable. But the reason I go 36 is for the strength.

 

[powderboy]

So, what if I wanted to do a 36 H rear, but a 32 H front. To keep the rear end stiff, but allow the front to be a little more supple on the small stuff?

 

[bomberz1qr20]

Originally posted by powderboy
So, what if I wanted to do a 36 H rear, but a 32 H front. To keep the rear end stiff, but allow the front to be a little more supple on the small stuff?

The terms "stiff" and "supple" don't really apply here, the differences are in weight and strength. 36 hole wheels are stronger and of course heavier, and a 32 hole wheel is going to have less rotating mass, making it quicker in steering and acceleration...

I'd do both in 32 hole for general riding and definatley for racing, and 36 in the rear for light freeride/heavy duty trail riding.

If you're really abusive to wheels (low speed clumsiness and big drops) do 36 in the front.

 

[powderboy]

They will be going on my 2003 Balfa 2Step, but I'm no hucker, nor do I drop anything larger than 6 feet.

For all-around trailriding, I think I'll do 32H F&R... Unless someone has a compelling reason to go 36H.

I'm generally pretty kind on my wheels. I ride fast and hard... take drops, etc., but a little less rotational weight might be a good thing on long climbs.

 

[sub6]

maybe it's just me and my rather oblivious nature, but I can't ever imagine being able to tell the difference between a 32 and a 36 hole wheel while riding. Weight, stiffness, strength, anything. I'd just go with 32 because it's more common, hence that much more likely that you'll be able to find a replacement rim in a pinch (like at a LBS in bumblef uck, AK).

Also, the spokes are farther apart, making it easier to true b/c your knuckles don't get caught up in 'em....

 

[Tweek]

There seems to be a few 32 vs. 36h threads flying around lately. I'll pipe in again and say your hub is a big factor in the strength of your wheel. Also torsional vs. radial stiffness is different between a 32 and 36h wheel. For more gory details D), check out "The Bicycle Wheel" by Jobst Brandt.

 

[Brian HCM#1]

I run 32's on all my bikes with no issues.

 

[powderboy]

Well... I just ordered my new SUV wheelset with 32H front and rear.

I'm sure I won't be thinking about whether or not I've got 32 or 36 hole rims on my next ride... thanks fellas.

 

[SwisSlesS]

The number of spokes is not the biggest thing. What the major difference between the two is the lacing patterns they use. 36 hole wheels are generally laced up 4-cross, which is significtantly stronger than the 3-cross lacing pattern used on 32 hole wheels. I would say go for the 36s because of the added strength, and they don't weigh all that much more either.

 

[llkoolkeg]

Originally posted by bomberz1qr20
The terms "stiff" and "supple" don't really apply here, the differences are in weight and strength. 36 hole wheels are stronger and of course heavier, and a 32 hole wheel is going to have less rotating mass, making it quicker in steering and acceleration...

I'd do both in 32 hole for general riding and definatley for racing, and 36 in the rear for light freeride/heavy duty trail riding.

If you're really abusive to wheels (low speed clumsiness and big drops) do 36 in the front.

...I like 32F/36R. I have tried almost every possible combination of spoke gauge, spoke count, rim, lacing pattern- you name it. All my wheels are built by reputable veterans. With a 32H out back, no matter what rim I used, I was having to retrue my wheels more often to keep them properly straight and tensioned. With a 36R, I could use rims as light as Rhyno XLs and still have them stay true assuming I used a stiff tire. Now with a 36H for the front, it was really overkill. I would never have to retrue them. I run a 32H 3X 14GA 521 currently and haven't had to adjust it but once all year. Maybe it's just a wierd thing I do, but I seek to find a balance in maintenance schedule between front and rear wheels. If I find that I am having to retrue one more than the other, I seek to strengthen the weak link. With a 32H front rim and a 36H rear rim, both 14GA 3X pattern, I find that I have to maintain them about evenly. Mavic 521's for racing and Atomic DHR's for general use. But that's just me and I'm admittedly a bit obsessive about such things.

 

[llkoolkeg]

Originally posted by swiss_less
The number of spokes is not the biggest thing. What the major difference between the two is the lacing patterns they use. 36 hole wheels are generally laced up 4-cross, which is significtantly stronger than the 3-cross lacing pattern used on 32 hole wheels. I would say go for the 36s because of the added strength, and they don't weigh all that much more either.

...tend to disagree. Some use a 4X pattern(e.g. DeeMax), but it really depends upon the hub flange and wheel dish. I have personally had all my 36H wheels built 3X. You have to remember that increasing the impact resistance of a wheel comes at the expense of lateral strength. Just crossing the spokes more hits a point of diminishing marginal returns when your spoke length has to be increased too much. Once again, just my opinion.

 

[SwisSlesS]

Originally posted by llkoolkeg
...tend to disagree. Some use a 4X pattern(e.g. DeeMax), but it really depends upon the hub flange and wheel dish. I have personally had all my 36H wheels built 3X. You have to remember that increasing the impact resistance of a wheel comes at the expense of lateral strength. Just crossing the spokes more hits a point of diminishing marginal returns when your spoke length has to be increased too much. Once again, just my opinion.

That's a good point that I've never thought about. I've always just considered 4 cross to be stronger, but I guess they're not stronger torosionally, as you were saying. Hmmm...I might have to reconsider how I build my future wheels. Thanks for the info .

 

[D_D]

The real problem with mtb wheels is the unpredictability. So in many cases the extra spokes will just be extra weight.

It could be slightly more easy to true a bent rim with 36 spokes there will be more closer together adjustment points.

I go for 32 as the last few wheel faliures I had would not have been prevented by extra spokes and rims are slightly more available.

 

[powderboy]

It looks like I've done a good job at polarizing the crew here... some are shouting 36, while others shout 32!!!

I'm now accepting applications to the "32 Hole Rim Clique" since I already placed my order for 32H f&r. PayPal me your dues of $300 to join.

 

[Tweek]

Originally posted by llkoolkeg
...tend to disagree. Some use a 4X pattern(e.g. DeeMax), but it really depends upon the hub flange and wheel dish. I have personally had all my 36H wheels built 3X. You have to remember that increasing the impact resistance of a wheel comes at the expense of lateral strength. Just crossing the spokes more hits a point of diminishing marginal returns when your spoke length has to be increased too much. Once again, just my opinion.

A point most don't realize, as ll. indicates. For that reason, I wouldn't build (or need to build) a 4x 36h.

 

[KL]

I am getting my wheels built pretty soon too. (Waiting on King hubs) I went 36 because my wheelbuilder recommended it. Basically-building with brass nipples and Wheelsmith DH13 spokes- a set of 36h are going to weight .14lbs more than a set of 32h. With the wheels being relatively heavy already, this doesn't seem like alot.

However, I agree, why pull along .14lbs more if you don't need the extra strength.